a map sensor will not correct for any elevation changes. it simply measures the deflection of a membrane that has a known pressure (abs vac) on one side. the ecu would make the adjustment at initial key on. it is still just a 5v signal regardless of the limit. with a 3bar you lose some vac/boost resolution for a higher max reading

 

good tip, Rich...where can this female connector be purchased? my car dies out of the blue right now and this may be the problem, I just had a GM 3 bar installed

 

thanks for the correction. I know I read something here on the forum a while back about the apexi 3 bar and elevation, but it could have been b.s.

How much resolution do you lose? 10 Pressure cells for 29 psi instead of 14.5?

 

Next time the car dies, check out your peak boost on your pfc commander. If it reads 2.13 (30 psi?!) or something outrageous like that, you've found your problem.

Should be part #6370, 27 bucks:

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/sale...nsor_connector

 

thanks...you're the man

but I tend to think my Cosmo fuel pump is taking a dump (only 2 years old!)...it keeps dying at more frequent intervals (fuel pressure immediately goes to zero under any load)

 

Check your fuel pump wiring and ground.

 

I did...it's fine

the car sat for a year so perhaps the pump got gummed up...who knows

 

I have the stock map sensor in my car and haven't had any problems. I have ran up to 20 psi on it which isnt reccomended but as long as that last cell in the PFC has the right amount of timing and it is rich enough for 20 psi then you can run the stock map sensor. If it does spike past 20 then you are in trouble . My car didn't miss a beat until I spun a bearing about 5 months ago. Don't neglect changing your oil. I kept pushing it from this weekend to next, then to the next. Finally I made a 3rd and 4th gear pull and it started knocking at idle. Its been collecting dust in my shop since...

Bryan@BNR
205 640 1193

 

Sorry to hear about that man. I used to go up to Bryans shop and drool on that engine when it was being built. That glossy black and gunmetal color combo on teh engine was sooooo nice looking. He sandblasted and glass beaded all of the parts including the lower and upper manifolds, even polished all of the nuts and bolts he used to put it all together. Ive seen a lot of engines and I'd have to say the one that was in your car is probably the nicest I've seen put together. I hate to hear that it died over a vacume cap. And yea, no one has said it really, but I just about promise at least one of your turbos is shot. Just send them to Bryan so he can inspect them, I'm sure if only one is bad he can just fix that one and save you a little money. Of course I dont work there so I dont know if he can do that or not, just give him a call and see what he says about it.

Such is the way life goes. Ive been there a few times myself.

Good Luck with it,
Stephen

 

I'm not suggesting that the engine itself was either at fault or "shitty" it just seems that a lot of cars have been in our shop lately with engines that were recently rebuilt by "experts".There seems to be a lot of new experts nowadays with about 3-5 yrs experience and a few engine rebuilds under their belt. Not trying to go anywhere-sorry to interrupt.

 

Now hold up here. I have not built any engines out of the state of AL the past 4 years except for a guy named Frank from SC and Heath from TN. Everyone knows I built this guys engine. Why do you come on here and say something so negative? That car was perfect inside and out and was "turn key" 385RWHP and solid reliable. What more could you ask for a daily driver?

You are the owner of a business like I am. I don't go bashing other peoples products online. I don't have to do that to drum up business...

Bryan@BNR
205 640 1193

 

So lets get this straight....385whp and daily driver and it lasted 4 years and its a crappy rebuild??? If this is true I would consider it a very good build and tune.

 

I doubt the construction of the engine has anything to do with it. Based on what I've read, it's yet another unfortunate but clear example of why we ought not run so much boost on pump fuel. 1.1 bar is just way too much. I don't know how many times I have to argue this point; it is so highly unreliable it's not even funny. This kind of stuff happens it seems at random when we march up to and past the point of 1bar of boost on pump fuel. Ever wonder why so many street engines blow up at relatively low boost yet they don't seem to on good quality race fuel?

B

 

I agree. It's not the engine. Any problems with it would've been evident early on. It's the quality of fuel that's being used. We as a community are pushing our cars too hard while expecting to make truckloads of power on crap gas that seems to be getting worse and worse.

B

 

For the misinformed- I never questioned the rebuild quality or the reasons. Nor did I intentionally point fault at anyone. I simply re-stated what should by now be common knowledge. And no I had no knowledge of who built this motor. I wish you luck with your future engine.

 

There's nothing wrong with running 1.1-1.2 bar on pump gas. There are many people who has ran that and more boost on pump gas for many years w/o any issues. As long as you stick with the same brand of gas and run it consistantly instead of changing from one gas station to the next, i don't think anyone would have problems.

There are factory cars out there running 20+psi of boost on 91 octane fuel, if the gas quality is really that bad like you mentioned, why would manufacture releasing cars to run that much boost?

 

Sorry I understood your post. I guess I woke up on the wrong side of the bed .

What Kan is saying is right but those cars, but you have to key in the factor that the EVO 9 although they run 20 psi stock, the boost falls down in mid range to 15 or so psi and their timing drops off the face of the earth. But they seem even modified to run 23-24 psi on pump and hold it to redline. EGT's are crutial when it comes to tuning for higher boost running cars. If you don't have that, you just have to guess at the timing and hope its not too hot lol. My 323 GTX runs around 16-17 psi on pump gas. Its a 9-1 comp junkyard motor (out of NA) and if it detonates it doesn't really hurt it too bad. I know to lift when I hear it pinging.

I think BDC is right as well, but I'd stay away from race track and walmart gasses or lower octane. The war jacked up gas prices and people started deluting the gasses to make more money. If you get ahold of bad gas then low boost will keep you from preignition most likely. But realistically if you want a turn key car and want to keep your hands out of the engine bay, keep the boost down lower.

Kan tuned my car several times. He did a good job and the car stayed together 50K miles until I kept pushing off the oil change and spun a bearing. I ran anywhere from15-17 psi daily. He also did Heaths car and did a good job.

BDC tuned a few engines that I built and the customers are very happy with their tune.

There is a liability for the tuners. If something happends which always does with rotor engines, their reputation is put on the line especially on forums.

Bryan@BNR
205 640 1193

 

I had this happen to my daily-driver Toyota, forgot to change the oil for a few months in a row. After the engine quit, I looked up some old receipts, and realized the poor car went nearly 10k miles without an oil change. How long did your RX-7 last without fresh oil?

-s-

 

Hey R0t0rhead, get that **** out of my thread.

Bryan did a wonderful job building this engine. The fact that it had 8.2+ on all the rotor faces after 18k miles of high boost speaks volumes about the quality of Bryan's work. The engine was awesome. It ran cool, never smoked, pulled really strong and smooth - I never had a single problem with it.

Hey Bryan, do you remember much about my engine? I'm trying to figure out my best course of action for having my engine rebuilt, and I wanted to talk with you first.

I'm mainly concerned with what new/used parts were used when building it. If a lot of new parts (housings, rotors, etc.) were used for the build, then I may be more inclined just to replace the rear rotor housing and get on with my life. If the engine had a lot of speced out original parts or used parts, I think I might lean towards having Gotham pull the engine and replace it with a modified reman, because I may get more new parts in the engine this way.

 

I spoke to bryan on the phone about this today and he told me 6 or 7 thousand miles. bearings.

 

well, I don't know exactly how many miles it had on it. It was quite a bit.

As far as a rebuild, I would get a good low milage rotor housing and replace the compression seals/springs only in the rear, and put it back together. The car is tuned for that engine port so just have steve port match the rotor housing the way I ported it and stick it back in the car. More than likely the rotor is reusable. It is the solid casting 8.5 rotor. It will not dent like the FD rotors do under preignition. The color of the paint on the rotor housing is Gunmetal Grey from wally world. That way the rotor housing will match the front. I used all new OEM seals/springs/ 0rings/ quad rings. The rotors/housings are all ultra low milage. Break it in and you are back where you began. The rear turbo must be taken out and sent to me. I will possibly have to replace the rear turbine wheel. If the damage isnt too bad, then you won't have to replace the turbine.

Bryan@BNR
205 640 1193

 

Hey Bryan, how low is ultra low milage, and where'd you guys source them from when you were building the engine?

Your plan sounds exactly what I was thinking about doing. Depending on the condition of the more expensive parts in the engine, I was thinking about just pulling off the rear rotor, replacing the housing and port match it, slap new seals and stuff on and just drive like normal.

 

Good luck with the motor...sorry to hear that.

 

Hey that guy that you just kicked out of this thread may actually have what you need for a rotor housing . I would say less than 30K miles is what you need. Make damn sure you buy OEM apex seals.

Bryan@BNR
205 640 1193