as the title says, is there a way to get a hold of these things? are the threads a specific pitch? All (4) of mine still work, but theyre getting increasingly worse. I think the guy who rebuilt my motor, stripped the bolts on, and it was a pain in the *** to get them off, but they came off, and are incredibly hard to re tighten. I just want to get new studs and nuts, and was wondering if these studs are a very specific thread sizing, or are just any old threaded stud that I can pick up at a hardware/home depot kinda deal.

 

Dealer parts department. I bought them for $12 each!!!
Remember to use anti seize on them.
The other guy probably didn't and that's why they didnt' come off easily.

 

Oh...er...nevermind...

 

I removed the old studs drilled the threads out and used stainless bolts and nuts.

 

they're 12 bucks each??? holy shyte. How bout the nuts that go with them?

 

Don't use Stainless Steel Bolt on high heat application, they will start to freeze at high heat. Gr.5 or Gr.8 Zinc plated bolt are better.

BC

 

I don't think the nuts come w/ them. I reused the old ones.

 

i have them...make a bid

 

um, the old ones I have are stripped to the bone. So is there a specific thread pitch on these babies? or can I get them somewhere else?? where can I get these zinc plated studs??? if I go into a shop with no studs or bolts, is there something that i can tell them as far as the threading and size goes that will get me the same results as buying from mazda??

 

and does anyone have a part number for these things??? I just got off the phone with the mazda parts dept, and they said that the studs are not sold separately...What am I supposed to do about this?? Is the guy incompetent?

 

just tried calling a bunch of other auto parts stores as well, and they suggested a regular nut and bolt, after you take the stud out. Will this do the job?

 

Thanks for the info. I wonder why does SS freeze on high heat applications? In the MSC industrial catalog, they actually recommend SS for heat applications.

I just bought a few replacement nuts and bolts for the turbo. They were 10mmx1.5 pitch.

-Jeff

 

10mm thread? how long? I need to get some general figures as to what the sizing on these things are...and the studs are removeable arent they?

 

The studs are removable, if it's not frozen. I snapped a stud and had to drill and retap it. I'm not sure on the length. I think they vary in length depending if it's for the turbo to downpipe or turbo to manifold.

 

Stevey, they always say parts aren't sold seperately in my experience. Try Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda in the morning. He's one of the good guys™.

1-888-533-3400

 

how about you jsut take one out and goto a autoparts store. get a grade 8 stud. they can match the thread. I dont remeber if the studs on the cat come out though. If not jsut drill them out, use a bolt + nut + lock washer + antisieze.

 

ok, drill them out...do you use a drill bit thats the same size as the stud? or smaller...and I picked up some grade 8 bolts already. My friend suggesting cutting the very outside edge of the flange, and hammering the bolt out. a good 3/4 or more of the flange will still be left, so it can still seat a bolt just fine. Will this idea work?

 

it really dosnt' matter what size you use as long as the bolts you get are the size of the hole you'll drill.

 

DRILL OUT OLD ONES AND RETAP FOR 1/2-13. S.S. OR PLATED BOLTS ARE OK., BUT IF YOU USE S.S., USE BRASS, BRONZE OR PLATED NUTS

 

you dont need to tap anything, jsut drill it out stick a bolt with a lock washer thrugh the hole, and put a nut on it from hte other side.

 

Zinc Plated Gr. 5 or Gr. 8 Bolt and Nut can be found in any hardware store or auto store like Home Depot or Pep Boys. However, OSH or ACE Hardware has more selection for Metric Size Bolt over Home Depot. You can also find and order any kind of bolt thru www.mcmastercarr.com .

What you need to do is to drill out the hole bigger and get whatever bolt size and length that fit between, which is easier to do than retapping the hole. For you information, many Exhaust manifold flange use Gr.8 bolt.

BC

You can find and order any kind of bolt thru www.mcmastercarr.com too.

 

So I remove the two nuts holding my catback to the stock cat. I had to use a torch one one stud. As you can see some threads were lost from the end of both studs. I'm planning on reusing these studs. But I'm curious if anyone has ever removed the studs without cutting and drilling them. The 1994 Rx7 parts fiche shows that these studs can be purchased as separate pieces. You can see the blue arrow in the parts fiche pointing to the stud(96A20-1201). Also if you look at the stud in the the color picture it has two round ends and two flat ends. If cat studs are screwed in I'll put a torch on them and try to turn them out. Does anyone know if they are screwed in?

 

the later cats actually just have a bolt tack welded to the cat, so on the later parts there are no threads to damage on the cat.

on the older cats with an actual stud, you can remove the stud, and just drill and use the bolt.

Mazda's bolt is supposedly inconel, which explains the price

 

Actually this picture is more clear. The question is written in the picture.

Thanks.

 

First off, holy large pics and old thread Batman!

That pic looks like a pressed in stud, like a wheel stud.

Regardless, I'd press/hack/drill those out and use bolts and nuts to hold the flange together. It makes working with the exhaust SO much easier. I did that on the old main cat I had until I got my high flow cat, really makes working on the car easier. The only reason they were like that from the factory is for ease of assembly on the assembly line.

On the turbos, using studs makes sense, but here there's no good reason. Get some good bolts and nuts from McMaster-Carr and you're done.

Dale