That sounds like a good idea, but relocating to somewhere else on the rotor houseing sounds like a really baaad idea...

 

so back to my previous question, is my e6k (with terminated harness) using the sensor for anything?

 

The E6K doesn't. I think the E11 does though.

It shouldn't be that big of a deal to move it to the rear rotor. There's already a hole tapped for it. It's not like he's just throwing it in the glovebox.

Aside from that, you shouldn't tune your car to depend on the knock sensor taking care of detonation.

 

Just my 2 cents but the knock sensors that we have stock are fairly Ineffective( don't work well) At high RPM"s By the time the ECU were to realize there was knock it would be far too late for anything to happen. As I said this is just MY opinion. Aloha, Dave

 

I know with a stock wrx 2002 - current the ecu ignores the knock sensors input completely after 5500 rpms. and thats 10 years more current then our setups

 

Don't blame the sensor, blame the Game

No don't blame the sensor, balme the ECU, since the sensor just reads the data, what the ECU does with it is a whole nother issue... Another good reason to get J&S or and ECU that you can tune to read the values properly and take action above 5K rpm....

-DC

 

Good point!! The sensor see's the knock , there is just no reaction from theECU. Thanks for saying that. Didn't want to hurt the sensors feelings.. Haha!!

 

If you can get around the oil dipstick and the oil catch tank below the intake hosing, then Majik may have it right. There may be a second mount on the second rotor housing. Move or not move? I do not see why it could make a difference.

 

stock ecu does retard timing based on knock levels. The PFC doesn't so you have to watch your knock level when your tuning or you might lose an engine since the PFC displays the knock level but doesn't retard timing.

Tim

 

Ouch
that sounds really bad for the PFC

 

well for me the check engine light has been on all the time since I dropped a new motor in, its gave me 5 blinks with the paper clip trick and its the knock sensor error. Perhaps its a connection problem I have? The car drives normal except for the boost problem, maybe the knock sensor is limiting my boost? I'm pushing about 5 to 6 pounds. I always thought that I had a leak on my old couplers and a crack somewhere in the intercooler piping. So what do you guys think? Also when I turn my steering wheel the light flashes on and off, which I kno is a definite sign of connection problem.