http://www.kdrotary.com/price_list.html

 

Malloy motor was $1950 plus shipping and my old core, I think Dave Barninger charged $1200 parts and labor to tear down, rebuild and enlarge the intake/exhaust ports, oil and coolant passages, do the eccentric shaft mod, use silicone o-ring gaskets (instead of the stock rubber), etc, etc, I don't recall the exact figure, but the motor was ~$3500 total (including shipping from VA to Rx7 Store OH, and core shipped back to VA)?? I also bought a Power FC (version 5.08) with commander from Dave with a dyno-tuned map from a car with the exact mods and motor as my car's. The Power FC map performs beautifully, (although Dave doesn't do this anymore because of the liability issues). G-tech Pro says 370 rear-wheel-hp with 265 lb.ft torque (10 psi from 2500 rpm to 8000 rpm, J-spec Twins), and 12.8 quarter mile--whatever those numbers really mean, is irrelevant to me. All I can say is that the Malloy/KDR motor is damned STRONG!

 

Pineapple Racing looks pretty good w/ their warrenty packages.

 

Pineapples appear to be leaky. I've seen two new ones with leaky oil pan gaskets (I won't mention the owner's names; they ordered Pineapples with large port jobs). My Malloy/KDR street port has been bone dry from the start...

 

Guess what I found in my mailbox today???




A check for $1700.00 and some change!!@# I certainly wasn't expecting it.

It was from a company that I worked for, for less than two weeks...It was a sales job and they offered this "commission guarrantee" for new sales people while they rampped up their sales pipeline.

I ended up quitting when I realized that the job wasn;t right for me. The deal size was too small, etc...

This will pay for a good part of my new motor!!!!

Woo-hoo...

 

Has anyone ever had to try and do a warranty claim on a pineapple motor? Or any motor?

 

pineapple, I have only heard good things about them.

 

I went with a BNR Race Ported motor. It is installed but I am still waiting on my single to arrive then I will get to fire it up. Bryan is awesome to work with. I have never heard anything bad about Rob at Pineapple though either.

 

john,

have you tried ivan. the warranty thing is cool and all, but i would imagine that it would be a PITA to deal with somebody from oregon or the east coast...if you engine fails would the warranty cover the cost to remove it, send it over, have them inspect it, etc. with ivan at least he's local and it might make it easier if something goes wrong. just a thought. i haven't talked in detail about any warranty he does/doesn't offer, but he's reputable, so i would imagine that he offers something similar. i would also think rick would offer some type of warranty. i'll be in your shoes pretty soon too but instead of getting checks in the mail i have to pay uncle sam :-(

 

RP baby! I just got my 3mm, street ported back from them. Quality and service are just outstanding.

 

Btw, I dropped my car off and left, 1 1/2 weeks later it was done, tuned and all.

 

ttb,

I have some time. My car still pulls strong and starts fine.

I still need to call the local shops. I've only taked to the guys at C2 Automotive(they use Atkins motors). I'd love to find local motor builder who would also do the installation. I just haven't found one yet.

I'll make sure I let you know what I find out from my research.

 

as to the reman sit.... well i am one that had mine blow in under 3k miles... but im an idiot.. ..... im sure if i treated it a tid bit nicer that it would have lasted longer... but hey its under warantee... to its a o k...


id go for a reman.. jus cause sometimes u get some nice new housings and what not... its a good deal too.... imho

 

Re Amemiya

 

hey john

i've talked to 3 other FD owners around the bay that had ivan work on their new motors. they all said he did a good job. however, i recall one of them telling me that ivan sent their car to pinapple. this led me to believe that 2 got mazda remans and the other had his engine rebuilt. anywho, ivan was recommended by all of them.

i suppose you could try rick's and m2. i've never really talked to rick but m2 has a couple of great guys there. they worked on my FPD and hooked me up with new injector to replace my leaky one (it's the little things that count )

hope all goes well, please keep me informed on any path you take

kris

 

ok, a few questions:
first off, will a mild street port necessitate more mods to fuel management, oil/coolant passages? I mean, I am going to be running stock boost for a while, until I go single. But the motor needs a rebuild, and I was wondering if I can run a mild street port with the stock turbos and fuel management otherwise, until I save enough money to get a larger turbo. Is this a wise decision? Or should I just stick with the stock ports, and just get a full rebuild? I'm plannin' on running an HKS TO4E, but if I dont even need a port for that sized turbo then maybe a street port is out of the question. And what mods will help with reliability? Wouldnt nearly all of u guys consider the coolant/oil passage mods just to keep temps. down even if ur gonna run it stock? Or do these "passage" mods hurt the motor if its not going to be running hard? And generally, what things nearly 100% of the time need replacement or fixing, (please be thorough, I need to essentially make a list and get exact prices for budget reasons.)

Second area of concern is where to send my motor, how much it generally costs, what the best option is, yada yada. How long is the turnout for sending it to a place like pineapple? I dont want my car to be sitting in a shop here in San Diego for months without a motor, just racking up a bill for storage fees. I would much rather do something locally for convienance reasons, but if I cant find a shop around here that will do the work, then I think the extra money might be worth it.

Oh, and I know Im gonna get crap for this, but I'm really new to the rebuild process. What exactly is the "core"?I went to a shop here in San Diego and the process was explained to me, and from what I understand, u pay for a new core, and send in ur old one. Is this what is usually involved in a rebuild? The core is just the housings, and none of the internals like the rotors, stationary, eccentric etc. correct? If my core is still good, (90k mi. on original motor) then why get a new core when a lapping might be enough? And u dont know what kind of shape ur housings are in until the motor is pulled apart, and thats more money. but they are going to have to take the motor apart anyways if they are going to rebuild it with or without a new core, so should I pull the motor apart first, and if I need a new core, then get one? Im lost, and rambling like a senile grandmother so Im gonna stop here.

 

It's recommended to upgrade fuel management when porting the exhaust and intake ports. If you were doing only the oil/coolant passages, the stock ECU, injectors and fuel pump would be fine.

Quote:

I was wondering if I can run a mild street port with the stock turbos and fuel management otherwise, until I save enough money to get a larger turbo.

Yes. You should upgrade to Apexi Power FC, larger secondary injectors, and higher flowing fuel pump. You will need these plus larger primary injectors (upgraded fuel rails), when you go large single turbo anyway.

Quote:

Wouldnt nearly all of u guys consider the coolant/oil passage mods just to keep temps. down even if ur gonna run it stock?

Yes.

Quote:

Or do these "passage" mods hurt the motor if its not going to be running hard?

No.

Quote:

what things nearly 100% of the time need replacement or fixing, (please be thorough, I need to essentially make a list and get exact prices for budget reasons.)

Probably best to replace all the gaskets and o-rings. Look at engine wiring harness, and see if it needs replacing. If your car is 90,000 miles old, it's probably time anyway. If you can possibly afford it now, do your turbos too. I believe in doing the job right, by doing the job ONCE. If you can't afford it, then just rebuild the motor and forget about the port job and all that stuff; you won't be able to take advantage of that performance mod properly.

Quote:

where to send my motor, how much it generally costs, what the best option is, yada yada.

This has been covered with the first page and a half of this thread. Did you even read the posts before you "hi-jacked" this thread?

Quote:

What exactly is the "core"?

It's your old motor less all the accessories. You can keep your core, but you pay $1000 more for your remanufactured 13B REW

Quote:

If my core is still good, (90k mi. on original motor) then why get a new core when a lapping might be enough?

90,000 miles? Doubt it, but you might get lucky. If you rebuild your existing core, there is no core charge. Longer wait time though; your motor will be apart, and shop will be waiting on motor parts. Costwise new housings and rotors are expensive, and can reach the cost of a remanufactured 13B REW. The best option is to buy a remanufactured motor, and have it torn down and inspected, so you know what you're buying. You then have the intake, exhaust ports enlarged, along with the oil/coolant passages enlarged, plus the eccentric shaft mod, and coolant o-rings replaced with silicone o-rings. This is what I had KD Rotary do with Malloy Reman. Malloy is probably the best source for quality remans; mine had 90% new parts. Cost was ~$3500 total (see my previous post on page one of this thread)

Quote:

...And u dont know what kind of shape ur housings are in until the motor is pulled apart, and thats more money.

They don't tear down if you're installing a remanufactured motor.

Quote:

but they are going to have to take the motor apart anyways if they are going to rebuild it with or without a new core, so should I pull the motor apart first, and if I need a new core, then get one?

You have to decide in advance what you want to do. They will not tear down your existing core UNLESS you plan to rebuild your existing core. They will merely remove your core and install the new remanufactured motor. If you tell them you want your existing core rebuilt, then they will tear it down, and tell you which parts need replacing or machining. It's a crap shoot with rebuilding your existing core, and depends on the condition of all the parts. Rebuilding your existing core might be more expensive, or it might be less. You won't know until you tear it down. It's a "catch 22".

 

Thanks guys for all the great information.

Also, thanks Stevey69, for asking more detailed technical questions that I didn't know enough to ask.

I think I am leaning towards buying a Power FC + Commander now and learing how to use it on my current motor, since I'm going to need it to run my New Street Ported Motor! I figure that why change anything on the car if its not going to be an upgrade? I know that I'd be kicking myself later if I didn't go fofr the street ported motor.

As for the turbos, I'm really hoping that they are still good, for now anyway. I just don't want to spring for the Big Single Turbo, YET. I just want to be ready for it.

Thanks Again and keep the info coming. This is great info for others who SEARCH will find invaluable. Archive?

 

...and ordered a Mazda Reman from Ray at Malloy Mazda for $1995.00. I'm having it shipped to Rob Golden at Pineapple Racing to have the motor torn down, inspected, Street ported and Stage II Oil & Coolant mods done for about a $1000.
I also ordered a Power FC w/ commander for $988.00

Damn, that's $4000.00 went fast! Now, I'm gonna drive the **** out my leaky motor and hope it lasts another month while I'm waiting for my new Motor.

Thanks for all the advice guys!

 

HA! I'm picking up my motor from Pineapple tomorrow. Same as you jpandes, a reman with stage II, coolant, and better than stock O-rings. Looks to be $750 or so, labor and parts. I bet Ray and Rob are wondering where all these orders are coming from...