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Old 05-29-02, 02:07 AM
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Very clean car. Get that boost gauge on there and see if you have a correct boost pattern. Chances are with that kind of milage on a stock FD your precat/ and or maincat will be plugged. (Mine was, and it limited that amount of boost my 2ndary turbo was making)

Sorry to be the one to break it to you, but the auto does more than just cripple your car performance wise...There are very few ECU upgrades availble for the auto FD, or at least ones that allow you to keep the "Hold" feature, which most auto owners would die without.

Here is the breakdown of ECU's:

Wont work: Pettit, M2, and basically any other that reprograms the stock ECU

Will work but loose "Hold": PowerFC, Haltech, Wolf

Piggyback systems: EFI/PFS PMC, Apexi SAFC, basically anyother piggyback fuel system.

The best bet for Auto owners is the new AEM EMS, but it is still unavailable and unproven.

Hope this helps.
Old 05-29-02, 09:07 AM
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I get my Auto FD running right for the first time cents I got it almost two yr ago.
I haven't got it to the strip yet put it is as fast as my 426 Hemi Dodge and that goes High 12's low 13's.
That is from a rolling start.
Ed
Old 05-29-02, 09:26 AM
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Weaklink, we may be interested in the torque convertor and intercooler... Shoot me an e-mail at chucks97ss@hotmail.com w/ the details.
Well, we'll see what happens after the cai and exhaust. Maybe we'll take it to the dyno and see what it's actually doing a/f wise. What's everyone consider a safe air/fuel ratio on these cars?

Thanks
Chuck
Old 05-29-02, 11:01 AM
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Chuck, you have email. I think the highest most people would go on the a/f is around 12. This buys you some insurance from the inevitable bad tank of gas, unusually cool nights, boost spike, etc. See what you get. I ran a DP, hiflow cat, K&N drop in, and cat back for a while with NO ECU and never had a problem. Most here would say I was lucky. After I got the PFC and intake I have seen 15 psi spike and I ran 12-13psi. Definately you need a boost gauge. I would make that your #1 priority.
Old 05-30-02, 03:35 PM
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Yeah, boost gauge is on order and should tell a good chunk of the story. Having a plugged cat would make sense, but who know's. It'd be really nice if it was that easy that's for sure! We'll see what happens when we get the boost gauge hooked up. Anybody have an install page on putting in a boost gauge on these?

Thanks
Chuck
Old 05-30-02, 03:37 PM
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unixpilot- I'm thinking for a/f tuning we're just going to use an adjustable fuel preasure regulator. For as simple as these computers sound, that should be all that's neccessary.

Thanks
Chuck
Old 05-30-02, 03:51 PM
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Arrow

Originally posted by agent712
Anybody have an install page on putting in a boost gauge on these?
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/how-to_turbos.html
Old 05-30-02, 07:26 PM
  #33  
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Originally posted by agent712
unixpilot- I'm thinking for a/f tuning we're just going to use an adjustable fuel preasure regulator. For as simple as these computers sound, that should be all that's neccessary.

Thanks
Chuck
hmmm, that's an interesting idea. Should be ok as long as you tune it on a dyno. I hope you post the results. Could be a cheap way around the ECU problem.
Old 05-31-02, 08:43 PM
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Yeah, and these cars sound like they have a fairly simple computer that isn't going to "notice" the fuel preasure change and readjust itself... so I think it may work. We'll let everyone know how it goes... And yes, it will be tuned on the dyno.

Thanks
Chuck
Old 11-10-02, 11:43 AM
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Put the money into a 5 speed conversion, 2k to 3k and you'll be much happier. The bolt ons and torque converters, etc will cost that with you doing all the work and in the end you'll tear up the tranny and probably convert it anyway.

By the way a larger intercooler will only realy impact top end power and nothing for launch. Gearing the rear end to 4.33 is best way to get more low end torque to the back tires.
Old 11-10-02, 12:51 PM
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Originally posted by Rail Head
Put the money into a 5 speed conversion, 2k to 3k and you'll be much happier. The bolt ons and torque converters, etc will cost that with you doing all the work and in the end you'll tear up the tranny and probably convert it anyway.

By the way a larger intercooler will only realy impact top end power and nothing for launch. Gearing the rear end to 4.33 is best way to get more low end torque to the back tires.
This thread way old, and he did already do a manual conversion...
Old 11-10-02, 01:46 PM
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I think its funny when people pull up threads that are several months old and then respond to them as if they were new.
Old 11-10-02, 07:29 PM
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lol, yeah, pulled this up and was like, "what the heck?".
Thanks for the advice Rail Head, but like Mahjik said, been there done that. Car should be running mid 12's once we get a boost controller hooked up.
Oh, since everyone probably just got done reading this old post, I might as well say that the car did have a boost problem. The preboost wastegate actuator wasn't connected. Therefore the wastegate was hanging open letting off all the low end boost, and most of the top end boost. Car still only makes 8-9 psi hooked up to the stock lines (yes, that is even with all new vac hoses, and a full exhaust (dp,mp,cb)). Put on some el cheapo manual boost controllers and it boosted past 15 psi no problem. So who knows why it's boosting so low in stock form... but once we get an AVC-R hooked up we should be good to go.


Later
Chuck
Old 11-18-02, 01:35 AM
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So did you convert it to a 5spd then?

If so, give up the details!! Performance gains, PITA factor, etc..

Any motivation to convert mine would be greatly appreciated....
Old 11-18-02, 09:26 AM
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Really I don't think the work was all that difficult. Just a matter of swapping out trannies and some misc. parts. Having my local shop do it came out to about 700 in labor if I remember right....
Performance gains? Heh. This is a totally different car now. The FD3 was MADE for a 5 speed! The difference the first time we drove it was astonishing. We went from high 15's to mid 13's. That should say enough right there But, there was more than likely something binding in the tranny... so your results my vary. But the car is definitly a lot more enjoyable to drive.
Cost factor is the only downfall. Our car came with a 3 year warranty though, so the swap was mostly covered under "transmission failure". The total cost was probably in the 2500-3000 range.
If you want more specific details just pm me and I'll try to help.


Later
Chuck
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