As said above, I've already used the "search" option, but Im still doubting. At present I'm only running catback and downpipe, so the question is what to do next: intake or ecu? As I posted in other threads, I don't trust in spanish ECu tuners, so let's forget about PFC's or apexi's... sad but true.
My car is running very nice with the right 10-8-10 boost pattern, maybe with a little short 11-11,5 spike in short gears at full throttle, but everything ok. Midpipe is again at home and I'm running with main cat at its place. I have already bought an apexi power intake and don't know what to install before: pettit ECU or apexi intake... I've already asked my local tuners... no ******* idea

P.D- Yes, I know... I NEED A BOOST CONTROLLER!!!

 

I'm not an expert but i'd install the intake. As long as everything is running okay, and the boost levels are stock, you shouldn't really need the ECU IMO unless you plan on making more power with a tune. That being said, i'm sure there are some advantages of installing the ECU that i don't know about.

Let's wait till the experts/ or somebody with more knowledge gets in here.

 

Its ok to put the intake on. You'll just need to be careful of excess spiking. If you are already seeing some spikes, adding an intake can make it worse. Ideally, you would wait until you installed some sort of boost control.

 

I'm not familiar enough with Barcelona to know what seasonal temps swing you can experience. But something to consider.... if your already seeing some minor spikes, they could get noticibly worse on a cool morning or evening with an open intake.....and I'm talking from experience. Stock ECU is set a bit rich for safety but I think I came close to pushing it's limit. What was fine with an ambient of 30 C. was giving me serious spike at 13 C. Looking back I probably should have gotten a BC first.

 

You can install a manual boost controller for less than $30.....install the controller while you are installing the intake. That being said, I greatly prefer an electronic boost controller.

If you keep boost to 10 psi, there is no reason to upgrade from the stock ecu.

 

Ok man! apexi Power intake and boost controller will be soon at home. Just one question; I've already bought a "sandwich" for oil temperature sender, among oil filter and engine itself. And about water temps sender... sincerely, I'd prefer not to drill the water pump housing as I've seen in several "installation instructions" in the club, so... is there anything like the oil sandwich for water sender? I've found no info about it...

 

There are many places that you can tap for an aftermarket temp sender. There are several threads detailing either tapping into the radiator hoses or the coolant line which runs to the throttle body. Also, there is an allen bolt on top of the thermostat housing; that can be removed and some senders can screw right into there. It works ok, but you might have to modify your thermostat housing cap to close with a sender in that location.

All of the locations have their benefits and drawbacks. Just pick the one which fits your need.

 

Nice man. I've already found pro's & con's in every location. I assume that wp housing installation is the most reliable in order to monitor coolant temps with the most accuracy, instead of upper rad hose or throttle body coolant lines. Think it's time to turn on the driller. Thx!

 

First off, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do not drill and tap the thermostat housing for your coolant sender. Read this thread -

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...e+body+coolant

I have proven unquestionably that a T in the throttle body coolant line is the way to go. Perfect, accurate readings at all temps (thermostat housing won't give a reading until the thermostat is opened!), VERY easy and reversible installation, and cheap to do. Someday we'll finally get the myth squashed that that is a good idea.

Second, if you're spiking boost with downpipe/catback, I strongly recommend a computer next. Really, I'd get a PowerFC - the base mod map that comes with it is good for many mods (intake, exhaust, intercooler) out of the box. The car also runs FAR better with it. You don't need a tuner handy with a PowerFC - the base maps do just fine for light mods. If you go beyond what the PowerFC can handle with the base maps, you'll need a tuner, period - no ECU is going to plug-and-play at that point.

Ramy is running a group buy on them right now as well, and there's strong rumors that they're going out of production. This is hands-down my favorite mod I've done on my car - bye-bye 3000 RPM hesitation!

Dale

 

If you still have the TB coolant line available, Dale's method is IMO, a no-brainer. Simple, cheap, accurate and reversable if you ever get a PFC and don't need it anymore.
FWIW, I took a picture of mine not long ago for someone else.....

 

IMO, this is not good advice. The fact that he is spiking isn't going to be solved by a PFC. The PFC, while it does have boost control, is using the stock system which is already inadequate; thus his boost spikes.

A boost spike is just as dangerous on a PFC as it is a stock ECU. Some type of boost control (whether electronic or manual) should be done first to stop the spiking.

 

The PowerFC actually took care of my spikes (using it's boost controller) until I started opening up the exhaust more (high-flow cat) at which point I was beyond the limit of the stock solenoids/pills. Drilling out the primary pill solved that, though, until I got my AVC-R.

The stock ECU's fixed boost control map gets you into trouble MUCH faster than the PowerFC's boost control.

But, it is a good point - a proper boost controller is the right way to do it.

Dale

 

You are technically still on a fixed map with the PFC (i.e. whatever is happening at that moment is a fixed map... you just have the ability to alter the map but the map is not going to change on its own). The problem is the slow reacting vacuum controlled stock wastegate solenoid. The PFC doesn't make it respond any faster.