Hey!
The first question is what kind of gas mileage should I be getting with an average (mostly conservative, but having a little fun too!)style of driving? Are there add ons out there that I can buy to increase the MPG? And lastly where can I find a pair of headlight "lids" ( I can't think of the name), and a rear hatch/trunk replacement for a 94? And do you know the prices of all these things? Thanks for your help, and any little help you can offer will be appreciated!

-Mike-

 

stock FD's gave 16-17mpg city driving and there really isn't a way to improve that significantly other than staying off the boost.

 

Mileage on these cars isn't good. If your on the stock ECU, it's set a bit rich for safety from the factory. A rotary isn't exactly known for fuel efficiency anyway. Keep 91 or better gas in it, good plugs and wires and tires inflated. I've never checked mileage around town, but on the highway, neutral wind, flat ground and cruise I've gotten as much as 24 or 25 mpg. My car is relatively stock.
Check the parts for sale section on this forum and/or post up a WTB (want to buy) in that section.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-rx-7-1993-2002-parts-99/

In the future, searching under terms like "mileage" is preferred.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=mileage
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=mileage

 

You should know about your oil miles too.

Running mineral oil the car will burn about 1 quart for every 1k miles.

 

so you expect absolutely no oil consumption with synthetic?

 

I'd follow the manufacturer recommended 20w50

 

Your right, we can't leave room for assumptions here!

I have noticed when I use synthetic the car consumes less oil. You still need to check it/fill it every week but I do not know the approximate "mileage to consumption" ratio with synthetic. It is probably around 3/4 quart for every 1k miles but that is a good guess at best. I don't keep track. Just make sure it always has enough oil and add it when needed.

+1 for ALWAYS using 91 or higher octane

 

Thanks for your help guys!

 

I'm honestly a bit confused at how you figure that mineral oil "burns off" sooner than synthetic.. it's my understanding that the engine consumes oil, injecting it into the fuel via the OMP. However I find it difficult to believe that the OMP recognizes the difference between dino and synthetic, injecting more dino. If your car is "burning" oil as opposed to injecting it into the combustion chamber than I would seriously get that checked out.

I have never noticed a problem with abnormal oil consumption, I doubt my OMP is broken, though I still pre-mix anyway since it's cheap insurance and insures a more complete mixture to boot...

 

Uh...the manufacturer does NOT recommend 20W-50. It recommends either 5W-30 or 10W-30. Look at your hood decal.

 

^ xD xD xD

personally, i dont think you should think about gas mileage in an FD... xD

that said, i get 25 on the highway stock, once you modify that drops... im looking at about 18 - 20 on the highway, mild street port, stock twins, PFC controlled.

id say... 12 - 14 in the city.

 

Hi again guys,
But what about what this guy said below Hitokiri Gensai, since I see you to have a PFC conroller. Is that a joke what he said or can switching out the stock ECU for an aftermarket one really give you that much of a difference? I see you are estimating 12 - 14 in the city, so I assume it's a joke. But what do you think?


08-28-06, 08:22 PM #13
snub disphenoid
Registered User

Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Northern California
Posts: 2,115
Dude, I'm telling you the key is to ditch the stock ECU. If I was getting 22mpg driving spiritedly on an M2 stg. III ECU, imagine what you could do driving conservatively on a well tuned PFC...

 

Or this dude. I'm not saying your a liar at all, believe me, I'm just seeing what I can do. I don't want to get rid of her just because of today's high gas prices!

08-28-06, 07:14 AM #5
windom
Alternating Magnetisto




Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 447
25MPG, full bolt ons and PFC, fully stock maps.

 

well, the pfc i necssary for tuning, atleast an aftermarket ECU. If you dont have one, fuel trim is out the window, and youll see detonation if you increase the stock boost or anything like that.

Eitherway, im seeing less gas mileage because im no longer running stock trim, higher boost, and new injectors and a new map to match the boost.

 

You can expect 12-14 mpg around town unless you mix in some highway miles. I've read people posting higher numbers but for the most part I don't believe most people know how to properly calculate gas mileage. With a PFC, you can squeeze a little more gas mileage out. But this is a sports car, it's going to get crappy gas mileage.

 

Yea, I know about the crappy mileage though. I refuse to sell her, so I guess I gotta go buy a new pair of running shoes! I crack myself up sometimes, it's good for the soul!Well thanks again guys, this is a good website you have going here, keep it up !

-Mike-

 

They are extremely similar but have some different qualities. If they are the same why would people constantly argue on which is better? Why do manufactures and engine builders usually not recommend to break in with synthetic?

I typed "syntheic vs mineral oil" in google and it gave a pretty good explanation.

"Unlike traditional mineral oils that are produced by distillation and further refining of existing crude oil stock, synthetic lubricants are made through chemical reactions. These new oils aren't synthetic or artificial in the sense that they're manufactured out of whole cloth--they still have the same natural ingredients found in "real" oil. But in a synthetic lubricant, these ingredients are recombined like a Lego set to yield synthesized-hydrocarbon molecular chains with desirable characteristics and uniformity not found in even the highest-quality traditional motor oils. Typically, the best synthetic oils use a combination of up to three different synthetic base fluids--polyalphaolefin (PAO), synthetic esters, and alkylated aromatics.

Because a synthetic oil's molecules are much more consistent in size and shape, they are better able to withstand extreme engine temperatures. By contrast, the unstable molecules in conventional oil can easily vaporize or oxidize in extreme heat. Mobil 1 synthetic is said to be capable of protecting engines "at well over 400 degrees F"; in the real world, most racers have no problem running synthetics up to 290 degrees F under prolonged use, but they get really jumpy when a conventional exceeds 270 degrees F."

Taken from
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...oil/index.html

Lets not turn this into another synthetic vs. mineral thread lol. The point is the FD burns oil. It burns not matter what oil you feed it, even if you premix (which is highly recommended)

 

You mean 10w-30.

Dave