sevensix

iTrader: (1)

doesn't look like anyone has written up a how to about this.

i checked the factory service manual and it says to use a special mazda tool which is basically a ball joint remover that has 1 side specially fitted for the tie rod end..

anyone replace this without the factory tool and how did u do it..

the front suspension of my car is in pieces waiting for me to change the piece

edit: what kind of grease is recommended for suspension pieces?

WaLieN

You can rent a tie rod end link tool from your local auto shop (Autozone, Kragens, etc.). The tool will help a lot and it's free to rent.

If you bought stock tie rod end links, it should have came pre-greased.

sevensix

iTrader: (1)

thank u

chinaman

If the tool that was recommended does'nt work, get a torch and heat it up.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

If the FD tie rod ends are like the FC's, here's my quick-and-dirty method.

Again, I've done this MANY times on the FC, but haven't done so on the FD. So, this may just be all wrong for the FD .

Remove the cotter pin, then remove the 17mm castle nut. Find another nut that will screw onto the tie rod end - make sure it's the RIGHT size and can easily screw on. Thread it on about halfway and tap the top of the nut with a hammer. You might want to squirt a little PB Blaster onto the threaded end of the tie rod to help things move. Once it breaks loose, reposition the nut and continue tapping it down, it will go MUCH easier once it's broken loose.

Don't ever hit the top of the tie rod end with a hammer - you can mushroom the head of that threaded stud, making reinstallation impossible and possibly making it VERY hard to pull the old one out. I never trash old parts on removal if I can help it - you never know when you might need it back! Like when the parts store gave you the wrong part...

Dale

Railgun

Exactly the same on the FDs. I just used the castle nut to smack on since I'm going to replace them anyway. What I did was bring the nut up so the threads on the stud were just below the top of the nut and smacked it with a 3# mallet. Once it pops it will come the rest of the way.

caredden

iTrader: (148)

I just did mine three weeks ago and it wasn't too difficult. I was replacing the dust boots and did the tie rod ends as well.

I agree with Dale, never hit the top of the tie rod end with a hammer - you can mushroom the head of that threaded stud. After I had everything removed (cotter pin, nut, etc), I firmly tapped on the piece the tie rod runs through (forget the actual name of it), and the tie rod end broke loose and I was able to work it out. Worked the same for both sides. Just get everything loose and give it a firm tap.

Reassembly went in reverse order and no greasing was necessary.

Good luck.

Gorilla RE

iTrader: (1)

hit the knuckle that the tie rod end sits in with a hammer a few good times, this will break it free....

sevensix

iTrader: (1)

hello. i haven't gotten the ball joint removal kit since... i can't get around w/o a car lol

but i did try wacking it and it didn't budge. will try again

Efini_7

iTrader: (1)

I had the same problem. Tried torching it, PB Blaster, and all sorts of other stuff. Turns out it was seized and i had to get a whole new steering rack. Not fun. And all i really wanted was an alignment! Hope you fare better than i did...

DamonB

I've always used a pickle fork and hammer with no problems. As long as you're not a bone head and use some care it won't damage the boots.

There have been times that I was not comfortable with the amount of force I had to use banging on a nut at the end of the threads on the tie rod end to free it. A nut only engages the threads. Hit it hard enough and everything will still get fooked up. I use a pickle or an honest to god tie tod removal tool that slips around the upright and presses on the end of the stud itself, not on the threads.

sevensix

iTrader: (1)

done! i hammered them off from bolt side. mushroomed both but hey they're headed for the trash anyways thanks for the help

mad_7tist

yea a small 5lbs sledge works great. some hondas even have a little land cast on the to hit