The reason they are getting like 10 at the wheels is because the cars they test are usually modded. Like I said earlier, the guy I talked to was pumping like 300 at the wheels then got the grounding system. But you could also just make youre own at home, and shouldn't cost more than 10 bucks probably.

 

I sell the Hyperground system at the rx7store and use them on my car. They dont make a specific one for the RX-7, but its very easy to install. Seem to give the car a little more torque down low.

Jason
www.rx7store.net

 

I put the hyperground on my S13 and it did get rid of the rpm drop when you come to a stop. It did seem to add more responce on a take off.

The way the HyperGround "links" all the grounding points is what makes it improve the grounding compared to the HKS Circle Earth and other similar grounding systems that are pretty much just an octopus comming off the negative terminal of your battery.

Chris

 

It works its not BS. if you had perfect grounds then no you wont get any gain. but i have yet to see a car that old with good grounds......you can make your own though...And though import tuner is more of a show car mag. their dyno numbers are all true. so don't start with the rice stuff.

 

what gauge wire does the hyperground system use? what are the grounding points for the system, anyone have a diagram?

 

If you buy most anything from Pettit, they give you a grounding kit for free. Heavy wire, better connectors, with instructions.

 

...it's exactly like tuning your radio... a bad ground gives you poor clarity or sound... the current isn't strong enough or just plain corroded or maybe even loose. If you were to loosen your main ground wire to your cpu, your car won't idle right, won't start right, or here's a good one, at excellaration you'll feel hesitation. There's a common problem for all cars "HESITATION = poor conduction/fuel/air"

If you want think of it this way, if you don't have a good ground you LOOSE horse power. If your connections are clean and tight or even thicker, the stronger the car will be.

N E WAYZ... Yeap a ground is just as good as having all your red(power/positive) wires connected properly. And you don't have to spend $90... JUST MAKE SURE YOU'RE "GROUNDED".


see ya,

car 53

 

They have a write up on this in this months Turbo. (Or was that SCC?)
Shows the dyno numbers of an S2000, Suzuki, and FD3S.
Sounds pretty good for the price.

 

so where else is there grounding points? I have the system, but we could only find 2 points in the engine bay, and 2 underneith the car on the exhaust.

 

Does this system purport to replace the ground line(s) that run(s) to the ECU (in the ECU harness) as well? Those two wires terminate around the UIM, one on the back (NOT the one that goes to the body, but underneath it) and one under the UIM, near the coils. Those two ought to be pretty important to, no?

And I though a large part of the hesitation was due to the stock ECU having a confusion with primary injector handeling when secondaries are initialized?

 

Im pretty sure it terminates on the second bolt of the rear engine lift point. but yes you can replace that wire if so desired.

 

Just go to an audio store and pick up some 4 gauge speaker wire and end loops. That's all the Hyperground System kit is. Save you a good amount of money when you order. The Hyperground kit comes with some awkwardly long lengths, so you will want to cut them and buy extra end loops to crimp on before you're done with the whole project.

 

there's one under the solenoid rack

 

what points did you use for it?

 

Offhand, I recall 4 stock grounds on the engine block.
1. Underneath the UIM for the EMS harness.
2. The one by the lifting point on the UIM.
3. One on the big bracket that hold the PS & AC compressor.
4. A ground in the coil packs, for shielding the wires running to the coils.
( There a several to chassis groundings under the hood too )

I've been thinking how bad engine grounds couldhurt the performance of a car. My current #1 theory is deals with Spark Plug grounding. If the block is not well grounded then not only can you have a weaker spark, there night also be voltage spikes to the few sensors that use engine ground.
(Most sensors have their own ground)

I'm also wondering that since the block isn't one piece, if there's a possibility that resistance could be developing between block sections, perhaps at certain resonant frequences. Very unlikely, but fun to think about.

 

very helpful thread +1

 

Maybe this is the right thread for the attached info: From Mazda Service Bulletin 005/97, dated 03/10/97, applicable to 1993-95 RX-7.

Subject: "Hesitation (Jerking/Bucking) While Driving"

I just did the first two parts of this. The first ground point is accessible through a large triangular cutout in the subframe near the LF wheel after removing the plastic undertray. It's a 10 mm hex head bolt through a ground lug into the bottom hole in the AC compressor mounting bracket. I used a 10 mm offset box wrench, which was the only tool I could fit in there. I used 220A wet-or-dry carbide paper to sand the lug and the bracket.

The second task was more difficult, since the Main Fuse Box, Diagnostic Connector, a small relay, and two harness connectors had to be removed from the bracket to get to the mounting screws. An ohmmeter probing two points on the bracket showed that the paint is non-conductive. Mazda had not cleaned off the paint from the bracket under the mounting bolt heads, so I sanded it off with the carbide paper.

I was going to make a wire for the third task, instead of buying the FD02-67-E70 part from Mazda, but it's wife's car and she wants the Mazda wire in there, so I have to order it.

The engine didn't hesitate, but under light acceleration there is that infamous 3000 rpm miss, which was my motivation for doing this bulletin procedure. (We'll see if it improves that after the last item is done.)

(See attachments)

 

Here's a pic from one of the other threads.

 

Good thread! Is 4 gauge wire what everybody is using to replace the old grounds?

 

8 gauge is what usually comes with these kits.

 

Alright thanks! That's easier to find.

 

Follow-up to my post #42: Testing our '94 after performing the first two ground point cleanings of the Mazda service bulletin, the 3000 rpm miss is gone. Ordered the upgraded ground wire for the 3rd task from Mazda today ($7.07), and will make that change when the part arrives.

 

Did the same thing today. 3000rpm miss seems to be gone. I think I may have felt it once during my test drive but it is way better than it was before.

Feels like it may have restored some power as well! (measured with butt dyno)

 

Would this be sufficient for a grounding cable??

Proflex 8mm/8awg Red power Cable 5m
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