Humungous Oil leak
06-07-03, 06:09 PM
#1
Riot7
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Humungous Oil leak
I've had the pan gasket and the rear main seal and the rear turbo oil line gasket replaced but I'm leaking enough oil to soak the bottom of the car and cause smoke to rise up the car when stopped.
With someone reving the engine (it doesn't seem to leak at idle) and watching the clutch inspection hole (with cover off) one can see oil come out from the bell housing hole. With the cover on the hole the oil comes from the area of the turbo oil line feed.
From inside the car when I boot it at speed you smell oil burning. There is no smoke from the tail pipe.
My emissions HC is 2500 ppm (sec is 200 ppm)
The oil is 20-50 Amsoil Synthetic.
The situation sucks, the car goes really well. Leaves everything but fast bikes behind. No hesitation anywhere and pulls 12 psi and settles at 10 psi. Its very strong. There's no oil in the intake piping.
With someone reving the engine (it doesn't seem to leak at idle) and watching the clutch inspection hole (with cover off) one can see oil come out from the bell housing hole. With the cover on the hole the oil comes from the area of the turbo oil line feed.
From inside the car when I boot it at speed you smell oil burning. There is no smoke from the tail pipe.
My emissions HC is 2500 ppm (sec is 200 ppm)
The oil is 20-50 Amsoil Synthetic.
The situation sucks, the car goes really well. Leaves everything but fast bikes behind. No hesitation anywhere and pulls 12 psi and settles at 10 psi. Its very strong. There's no oil in the intake piping.
06-08-03, 06:00 PM
#4
Rotary Enthusiast
for me it seams like the same problem i had. That the rear Sim-Ring(Im not sure if this is the right word), behind the flywheel, that is on the read wall.
It's a big orange gasket with a spring inside.
The best way to tell is if u have oil inside your gearbox.
Not hard to change, but u need to remove the gearbox and it's heavy
JT Pedersen
It's a big orange gasket with a spring inside.
The best way to tell is if u have oil inside your gearbox.
Not hard to change, but u need to remove the gearbox and it's heavy
JT Pedersen
06-08-03, 06:11 PM
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You replaced the rear main seal, but did you replace the rear stationary gear o-ring?
There was a TSB on it from Mazda and it was known to leak, many replace the rear main thinking that will fix it.
I just did mine and I had to *chisel* it off it was so brittle.
J
There was a TSB on it from Mazda and it was known to leak, many replace the rear main thinking that will fix it.
I just did mine and I had to *chisel* it off it was so brittle.
J
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07-20-03, 09:57 AM
#8
Lives on the Forum
www.staffsauto.com They offer a stainless steel metal brace that mounts outside the oil pan. This brace equalizes the torque from the 17 oil pan bolts and 6 motor mount bolts. I had mine done recently @ Rx7 Store. No leaks thus far... BTW you'll need longer oil pan and motor mount bolts. The brace is 0.1875 inches thick.
07-20-03, 10:19 AM
#9
Originally posted by Snook
i also have a pretty big oil leak
when I was under the car it was coming down from on top of the drivers side motor mount. I don't think it is the oil pan since I have a new pettit motor.
How do you tell if you have oil in your gearbox?
i also have a pretty big oil leak
when I was under the car it was coming down from on top of the drivers side motor mount. I don't think it is the oil pan since I have a new pettit motor.
How do you tell if you have oil in your gearbox?
07-20-03, 01:10 PM
#10
Oil on the driver's side can also be from the filler neck or the oil filter pedastool. The oil fillet neck has no gasket where the two sections bolt together, just platic on plastic. I use silicone there. The pedastool has two rubber o rings that you can try and replace. If this is the case then you will have oil dripping down the driver's side of the motor and maybe also on top of the motor itself under the rats nest. Best thing to do is degrease the engine bay and then drive for a while to see where exactly the oil is comming from. As for the oil pan, the frequently leak. What I did was buy some small washers and put them on each of the oil pan bolts to help distribute the torque better. I don't use a gasket, just clear silicone rtv. Seams to be dry so far.
07-20-03, 02:25 PM
#11
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I did the same repair(rear main oilm seal) thinking my leak would go away, also replaced oil pan gasket motor mounts, new clutch and fly wheel The description you gave for location is exact to mine. I never thought of the rear stationary gear o-ring. Thats gootta be my leak. I don't want to ruin a new clutch! Thanks for that bit of info Jason93RX7R1.
07-20-03, 04:00 PM
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No prob! Hope that is your leak as its a $4 part. No fun taking the tranny out again though 
J
J
Originally posted by BigIslandSevens
I did the same repair(rear main oilm seal) thinking my leak would go away, also replaced oil pan gasket motor mounts, new clutch and fly wheel The description you gave for location is exact to mine. I never thought of the rear stationary gear o-ring. Thats gootta be my leak. I don't want to ruin a new clutch! Thanks for that bit of info Jason93RX7R1.
I did the same repair(rear main oilm seal) thinking my leak would go away, also replaced oil pan gasket motor mounts, new clutch and fly wheel The description you gave for location is exact to mine. I never thought of the rear stationary gear o-ring. Thats gootta be my leak. I don't want to ruin a new clutch! Thanks for that bit of info Jason93RX7R1.
07-21-03, 01:34 PM
#14
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Can you replace the rear stationary gear o-ring without removing the rear cast iron housing? If i remember when i rebuilt my engine you have to drive it out from the inside with a bearing type remover. Anyone done this? Jason93RX7R1 did you do the repair yourself? PM me with details on it if you like. Thanks everyone!!
07-21-03, 04:25 PM
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Re: Humungous Oil leak
Mine is exactly the same. I jacked up the rear of the car and started boosting it and right away my bro saw the leak just underneath the water pump.. it was pissing oil...So I figured it is the oil metering lines.
Originally posted by Scott MacKenzie
I've had the pan gasket and the rear main seal and the rear turbo oil line gasket replaced but I'm leaking enough oil to soak the bottom of the car and cause smoke to rise up the car when stopped.
With someone reving the engine (it doesn't seem to leak at idle) and watching the clutch inspection hole (with cover off) one can see oil come out from the bell housing hole. With the cover on the hole the oil comes from the area of the turbo oil line feed.
From inside the car when I boot it at speed you smell oil burning. There is no smoke from the tail pipe.
My emissions HC is 2500 ppm (sec is 200 ppm)
The oil is 20-50 Amsoil Synthetic.
The situation sucks, the car goes really well. Leaves everything but fast bikes behind. No hesitation anywhere and pulls 12 psi and settles at 10 psi. Its very strong. There's no oil in the intake piping.
I've had the pan gasket and the rear main seal and the rear turbo oil line gasket replaced but I'm leaking enough oil to soak the bottom of the car and cause smoke to rise up the car when stopped.
With someone reving the engine (it doesn't seem to leak at idle) and watching the clutch inspection hole (with cover off) one can see oil come out from the bell housing hole. With the cover on the hole the oil comes from the area of the turbo oil line feed.
From inside the car when I boot it at speed you smell oil burning. There is no smoke from the tail pipe.
My emissions HC is 2500 ppm (sec is 200 ppm)
The oil is 20-50 Amsoil Synthetic.
The situation sucks, the car goes really well. Leaves everything but fast bikes behind. No hesitation anywhere and pulls 12 psi and settles at 10 psi. Its very strong. There's no oil in the intake piping.
07-21-03, 04:44 PM
#17
Rotary Freak
Originally posted by rotary-tt
I blow tons of oil which appears to come from the front of the pan but is actually the front cover. $1200 to fix a $15 gasket
I blow tons of oil which appears to come from the front of the pan but is actually the front cover. $1200 to fix a $15 gasket
07-21-03, 05:18 PM
#19
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Originally posted by Tim Benton
Gago, that's not the oil metering lines, its the front cover gasket leaking.
Tim
Gago, that's not the oil metering lines, its the front cover gasket leaking.
Tim
When there is no load and I'm just reving the engine we don't see any leak.
I started to notice that I'm loosing a lot more oil everytime I'm driving and boosting.
This is why we tried to jack the rear end w/ the tires off and put it in gear and started driving it. Right away we saw oil pissing out. I guess I'll find out soon enough. I'll start taking it apart tomorrow.
07-21-03, 08:06 PM
#20
be sure and let us know what the culptrit was. Mazcare in Atlanta, atleast one tech think that under boost, that its making its way to the front cover area and pushing the gasket out. I don't know how that would happen but I've seen a couple front covers leaking bad lately. Sucks ***, that's for sure.
Tim
Tim
07-21-03, 08:31 PM
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Originally posted by BigIslandSevens
Can you replace the rear stationary gear o-ring without removing the rear cast iron housing? If i remember when i rebuilt my engine you have to drive it out from the inside with a bearing type remover. Anyone done this? Jason93RX7R1 did you do the repair yourself? PM me with details on it if you like. Thanks everyone!!
Can you replace the rear stationary gear o-ring without removing the rear cast iron housing? If i remember when i rebuilt my engine you have to drive it out from the inside with a bearing type remover. Anyone done this? Jason93RX7R1 did you do the repair yourself? PM me with details on it if you like. Thanks everyone!!
07-21-03, 10:36 PM
#23
When replacing the rear main stationary gear o-ring also apply silicone sealer around where the gear bolts to the housing! This is a tip from Dave @ KDR. When I rebuilt my engine the last time I replaced the o-ring and still had a nasty leak. The sealer did the trick.
07-22-03, 02:10 AM
#24
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Cool !!! Thanks Jason93RX7R1. Thats what i wanted to hear. I was wondering about alignment of the rotor gear going back in. I like not having to rebuild the whole engine cause of 1 o-ring. I shall order that along with the exhaust gaskets i need to change and do it all at once. Thanks dude!!!!
07-22-03, 02:12 AM
#25
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Sorry zKeller!! didn't see your post. thanks for that reminder! I knew that, but always helps to pound it into your head.(would hate to have to do it AGAIN)