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how's this for cold air??

Old Jan 31, 2005 | 02:12 PM
  #126  
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Where's the post I recall reading at one time from the guy who was going to air condition his intake duct?
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 11:03 AM
  #127  
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Tests

Has anybody done any real "Tests" on these cold air intakes to see what the temperature is just before it hits the turbo compressor? Someone has to try these methods of cooling the intake charge, and use temperature sensors (thermocouples) and maybe even mass air flow sensors to prove what works best! It's all speculation otherwise...

I think using something that doesn't conduct heat to well (eg. high temp plastic or carbon fibre) would work best. You don't want heat from the turbo being conducted to the air intake.

I have been thinking of doing something similar to my 3rd gen, and you've given me some good ideas to try out.

Adrian
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 11:14 AM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by AdrianE
Has anybody done any real "Tests" on these cold air intakes to see what the temperature is just before it hits the turbo compressor? Someone has to try these methods of cooling the intake charge, and use temperature sensors (thermocouples) and maybe even mass air flow sensors to prove what works best!
I recommend finding a copy of Corky Bell's Maximum Boost...

It's all speculation otherwise...
No, it's not. The cooler the air entering the turbo(s), the cooler it will be when it comes out after being compressed.

I think using something that doesn't conduct heat to well (eg. high temp plastic or carbon fibre) would work best. You don't want heat from the turbo being conducted to the air intake.
Some amount of heat soak is inevitable, no matter what material is used. However, once the car starts moving again, the duct will quickly cool down again. Use whatever you're most comfortable working with.
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 11:17 AM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by DamonB
Where's the post I recall reading at one time from the guy who was going to air condition his intake duct?
I couldn't find it, but I'll bet we can find the thread covering the dangers of using a T-shirt for an intake filter...
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 11:20 AM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by AdrianE
Has anybody done any real "Tests" on these cold air intakes to see what the temperature is just before it hits the turbo compressor? Someone has to try these methods of cooling the intake charge, and use temperature sensors (thermocouples) and maybe even mass air flow sensors to prove what works best! It's all speculation otherwise...

I think using something that doesn't conduct heat to well (eg. high temp plastic or carbon fibre) would work best. You don't want heat from the turbo being conducted to the air intake.

I have been thinking of doing something similar to my 3rd gen, and you've given me some good ideas to try out.

Adrian

I work for a themecouple place, when I get some spare time Im going to try it out.
Thanks!
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 05:48 AM
  #131  
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We took a drive in about 75F weather and intake temps were a consistant 20C

During Dean's ride back home which was really cold btw, he saw temps as low as 13C. Say what you want but it works
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 01:59 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by LT1-7
We took a drive in about 75F weather and intake temps were a consistant 20C
Did I miss something? Does Dean have an air-to-water IC?
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 03:12 PM
  #133  
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Looks like a great idea, hope it works out for ya. Pretty inventive I'd say
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 04:04 PM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by LT1-7
We took a drive in about 75F weather and intake temps were a consistant 20C

During Dean's ride back home which was really cold btw, he saw temps as low as 13C. Say what you want but it works
I think what Jim is referring to 75F = 23.9C. If you were driving today I'd guess that your outside temps were closer to 50F = 10C (www.excite.com, weather).
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 05:21 PM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by turbojeff
I think what Jim is referring to 75F = 23.9C. If you were driving today I'd guess that your outside temps were closer to 50F = 10C (www.excite.com, weather).
My point was that 75F = 23.9C, but 20C = 68F. In order to have an intake charge temperature cooler than ambient air temperature, you'd have to have an air-to-water IC. However, I assume 75F was just an estimate.
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 06:23 PM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by jimlab
My point was that 75F = 23.9C, but 20C = 68F. In order to have an intake charge temperature cooler than ambient air temperature, you'd have to have an air-to-water IC. However, I assume 75F was just an estimate.
Yep, intake air temp was lower than ambient. 75F better be an estimate since I only live 1 hr away and it is 51F.
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 06:27 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by 7apex7
l;ooks like it sucks hot air directly off the engine block. bad engineering


LOL,

Have you seen how most single turbos are? They have a Filter or just mesh even mounted directly to the turbo it self. Although the piping is absorbing a substantial amount of heat from the engine, the air tempatures coming through would probably be significantly cooler than nothing at all... Anyways, to eliminate the whole heat issue you could always just wrap the piping with some some kind of insulation.

Let me know if you start going into production with this setup, I'll surley buy one !
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 02:14 AM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by spoolage
LOL,

Have you seen how most single turbos are? They have a Filter or just mesh even mounted directly to the turbo it self. Although the piping is absorbing a substantial amount of heat from the engine, the air tempatures coming through would probably be significantly cooler than nothing at all... Anyways, to eliminate the whole heat issue you could always just wrap the piping with some some kind of insulation.

Let me know if you start going into production with this setup, I'll surley buy one !
Originally Posted by LT1-7
I built this as a favor for Dean and never plan on going into production.
Also, it'll only work with aftermarket headlights.

-Alex

Last edited by TT_Rex_7; Mar 22, 2005 at 02:19 AM.
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 01:41 PM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by TT_Rex_7
Also, it'll only work with aftermarket headlights.
Who wants ugly pop-ups anyway?
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 06:19 PM
  #140  
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when u put filters in the only problem i can see is if you drive in the rain. It will make the filter like a wet T shirt and the water will get sucked into the turbo.
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 08:41 PM
  #141  
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Originally Posted by iceman4357
when u put filters in the only problem i can see is if you drive in the rain. It will make the filter like a wet T shirt and the water will get sucked into the turbo.
Chances are pretty slim, he'd have to sit at a red light in a puddle thats all the way up to the where the oil duct is and rev his motor. I'm not sure about you, but I wouldn't drive a car in the middle of a flood, because thats the only scenario where the water is going to be high enough. Try reading through the posts in this thread and you'll see it discussed. Water finds the easiest way to travel, and going up and through bends isn't the easiest.

-Alex
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 05:44 PM
  #142  
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i would put a HKS at the end of that piping!
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 06:18 PM
  #143  
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FYI..... After getting back from tunning, it almost rained everyday when I was in Washington. I drove the 7 everyday (2-3 days) in pretty hard rain and did not have any issues. Dan/krackerRx7 on the forum can verify. I actually ran into him and gave him a little ride on a rainy day!!! So for all of those people who said "water is going to get sucked up in there" needs to STFU!!!! And I don't plan on driving the 7 in "flood rains"
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 06:18 PM
  #144  
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If you have an R1/2 or upgraded oil coolers, why would you want to remove one?
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 09:32 PM
  #145  
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Yes some water will get sucked up into the turbo but who said that was a bad thing? It's not going to be any substantial volume and will basically act like a crude water injection system with almost instant evaporation. Of course I don't suppose anyone is going to be looking for extra power in the rain : ).
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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 12:23 AM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by the_glass_man
If you have an R1/2 or upgraded oil coolers, why would you want to remove one?
Because you could sell it to some idiot with a base or touring model who'd love to have twin OEM oil coolers and buy a single 19- or 25-row Mocal oil cooler with the profit to free up one side of the car... duh.
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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 12:26 AM
  #147  
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ive had my setup like this for a long time in the rain and no problems
and if any water got in there
its no big deal
and i do see less the ambient air temps all the time
i have all my pipes heat wrapped etc..
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 10:26 AM
  #148  
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Dean (RX7-2JOCK) what headlights are those? I'm going to make an intake similar to yours, so I need to get rid of the stock ones too. How difficult was it to convert the 2 oil cooler setup to the larger single one? I can't see the details on your website. I already have a Mocal 25-row cooler from a previous project ready to be plumbed in.

Thanks,

Adrian
(UK)
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 11:38 AM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by AdrianE
Dean (RX7-2JOCK) what headlights are those? I'm going to make an intake similar to yours, so I need to get rid of the stock ones too. How difficult was it to convert the 2 oil cooler setup to the larger single one? I can't see the details on your website. I already have a Mocal 25-row cooler from a previous project ready to be plumbed in.

Thanks,

Adrian
(UK)
Check your PM's bro......
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 07:55 PM
  #150  
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Has anyone hears from John (LT1-7) lately? I PMd him a couple of days ago and haven't heard back...
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