This is frustrating the hell out of me as this bolt is incredibly difficult to remove. I already bent my custom made flywheel stopped trying to remove it and it was made of steel. I really dont wanna waste a lot of money trying to figure out how to do this. How do I remove the flywheel without an impact wrench? I dont have access to any air compressor, and can not afford to buy a powerful impact wrench unless I want this car to be down for another 2 months.

I bought a cheater bar, but I really cant see how I can even use it because there is no room under the car

 

There is nobody in your area with a portable air compressor that you can borrow?

 

If you are trying to do it in car,you need a hoist,a flywheel lock(mazda special tool or similar and at least a 6 ft bar.

 

Banzai Racing or Mazdatrix or someone has a $20 stopper that you can buy.

That + heating the nut with a torch + 1/2" breaker bar + 6' steel pipe = worked for me when air tools were not available.

 

I used the bar from one of our jacks and had my friends little brother stand/jump on it until it broke loose.

 

buh buh buh buh breaaaaaaaker bar...use one...impacts never work esp on front bolts

 

i bolted a 2x4 to my flywheel and braced that against the ground...

then used a really long breaker bar...



hahahaha

 

haha now thats hoodrich!!! pm me ill sell you a flywheel stop tool i make them for na and turbo

 

Not so. -----> http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-hal...ench-2623.html

 

ive torn down hundreds of 13b's literally and no joke. ive found that a breaker bar with an extension always works no matter what...my muscles > impact its been proven time and time again and ive used some very nice impacts at that...


just something about impacts and old bolts that dont seem to work as well as good ol american muscle

 

do it the ghetto way... hammer and chisle

 

There are differences of opinion ------>https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=flywheel
FWIW, about 4 years later I used an impact to remove BOTH the front hub and rear FW bolts on that same engine. Smooth as budd'a.

 

*facepalm* yes man impacts work..but if you build engines...you WILL get engines that impacts WILL NOT WORK on..takes minimal effort to break both nut and bolt with a breaker bar and extension...just be smart with the tools you use...ie, the engine has to be on the stand a certain way so that you a pushing down to the ground in the direction of the open end of the stand...else your engine stand is going to move all over the place, and if its under the car...jack it up as high as you can, also use a flywheel stop tool, chain, etc.. if you have a lift..then its easy as pie!

 

+1 on 6 foot pipe and 2x4

 

I've had a couple that even the big impacts out at Mazda couldn't get off (they love it when you drive up with an engine in the back of your car btw)

Heating them up with a small hand torch for a couple minutes then hitting them with some freeze and release immediately afterward makes em a lot easier to get off with the breaker bar. I always throw a 6' piece of steel tube on the breaker bar, 10 feet of leverage puts a lotta force on that nut lol.

 

rereme, I hear ya man. I just tried a 400ft/lb impact trying to remove my front bolt a few weeks ago and the bolt just laughed at it. I gave Sean at ASpec a shout and he said the same thing. 4ft breaker bar. Worked like a charm.

OP, with the motor in the car do just what is suggested above. Lock the FW down (I use a chain bolted to the fw with a large washer and then bolt the other side to the motor), heat the nut up, and use the longest breaker bar you can get in there. A jack handle works good on a 1/2" drive breaker bar. Be careful, don't pull the car off its jackstands... Good luck, I definitely feel your pain. Don't get too frustrated, it will come loose.

 

So which is it? They "never work", or they work sometimes. From personal experience, I favor the latter. I'm just pointing out your earlier blanket statement was wrong.
If one isn't working, try the other.

 

You guys are doing it wrong....

 

You can RENT a compressor and impact wrench and whatever socket you need for about $15 for 4 hours from any of the hardware stores like ACE (if you have those in your area) or from a tool rental company.

Don't **** around with some puny-*** impact, get one that will do at least 1100 ft./lbs. in reverse mode.

As for the breaker-bar/Armstrong method vs impact wrench....I have personal experience with a front harmonic balancer bolt on an Audi diesel that laughed at me and my 4 foot breaker bar, that gave in easily to an impact wrench (albeit it DID take a lot of hammering away before it finally came loose).
Personally, I think it all comes down to how much torque your impact wrench has. If you are trying to get by with some 3/8" or 1/2" drive unit that maxes out at around 600 ft./lbs., you are wasting your time.

Or you can see about renting a torque-multiplier wrench and appropriate socket. Those things will give you up to 6,000 ft./lbs. of torque (air and hydraulic assist!).

 

I believe it's Racing Beat they sell a 3.5 ft long steel bar with a socket the size of the flywheel nut welded on. I have one if you would like it. Just pay for shipping and it's yours.

 

change your subtitle to "captain dumb satire pic", it's all you post here anymore you must be related to 95whitepep

 

basically impacts are bitch and cant compare to the awesome tightness of the rotary engine components..there for true brute muscle should be used..not some chintzy "power" tool that generally weak people use...do it right the first time..use a breaker bar

 

FWIW, I've never had a problem using a decent impact wrench on the flywheel bolt. It also makes it easy when using a puller to pop the flywheel/counterweight off with an impact wrench.

I have had problems with the front bolt and impact wrenches (i.e. never had it work unless it was a recently assembled engine which hadn't been heat cycled many times yet).

 

It's ok dude some people have a sense of humor, you should go buy one

 

LOL.... You just insulted at least half the guys on the forum. And when it comes to removing a FW nut, it's pretty straight forward. Just doing it IS doing it right...however it's accomplished.