rotorsownyou7

I am removing my engine, but I can't pull it out in one piece, as I can't get under a car with no back wheels. (Car burned down) The engine is good though, none of the fire got past the firewall, when i drained the oil it looked fine, and there was still gas in the fuel lines! But anyway, I unbolted the bolts from the back of the bellhousing to the engine, the took the mounts off, unbolted the starter, Now the engine pops off the tranny about an inch, then is stuck. The shaft is still connected. Now I unbolted the bolts from the flywheel, and it is still stuck? What did I forgot to do? I can't get udner the car to take the tranny off, so I can't pull it out together.

bajaman

I just did this, so maybe I can help out.

You need to have the tranny jacked up to where the top of the housing is almost touching the tunnel of the car. I had a devil of a time getting mine off, as I left the motor mounts on the car and it was just a bitch to get the engine at the right angle along with the transmission at the right angle AND clear the studs that extend out the motor mounts out of the frame rails. When you get it all just right, it will come out. More than likely you are still hung up on the center shaft that comes out of the torque converter, it fits into the end of the crankshaft, like where a manual car's pilot shaft would go.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

1) you have to remove the flexplate-to-torque convertor bolts. This must be done from underneath at the trans access panel.

2) you have to remove all bellhousing bolts. There are 4 on top and one on each lower corner.

3) motor and trans must be all the way up against the trans tunnel.

4) motor mounts need to be removed. this must be done from underneath.

5) motor should come apart now...be sure the torque convertor stays in the trans, and doesnt come out with the motor, or it will a) make a mess and b) make it much harder to get the motor out and c) possibly even damage the convertor or tranny.

6) as you pull the engine forward the front must be angled upward, especially if the downpipe is still attatched (otherwise the rear DP flange will tend to catch on teh trans and chassis shielding).

Just pulled one last night.

rotorsownyou7

I guess the only thing I didn't do is remove the flewplate to torque converter bolts. I got all the bell-housing to engine bolts out, and removed the motor mounts.

Also anyone know how much a rebuild with 4K miles on it with upgraded seals and a streetport goes for? Just the block? It has the lower+upper intake manifold, but no vaccuum hoses or anything attached (no alternator, powersteering, A/C, nothing). Oh, and S/S oil metering pump lines. I am trying to sell this as soon as I get it removed.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

I'd say 1500 bucks, maybe 2 grand if the person is in dire need.

DrunkenBowler

I had the same problem at one point, but then a tractor screw driver came in handy. And bajaman is right, the getting the right angle for the torque convertor to slip off is a pain and then some. However, I think you can unbolt the t.q. from inside the bell housing. As I recall, I think there are 6 bolts that connect the t.q. to the flywheel. I don't know if you can unbolt the t.q. from inside the bell housing, however, if you can, it'll save you time and effort.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)