how to remove dp.....
10-26-03, 10:15 PM
#2
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I am also installing a M2 dp this week and would like to know what parts are required to be removed in order to get to and remove the stock dp. Is there anything that I need to pay special attention to? Many thanks.
10-26-03, 11:09 PM
#3
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To get to the down pipe, remove all the intake pipes.
I think it's easier to undo the engine mount nut on the exhaust side and losen the nut on other side, and then jack(on the bell housing) the engine up and it will tilt to one side and this should give you enough room to remove the down pipe.
I think it's easier to undo the engine mount nut on the exhaust side and losen the nut on other side, and then jack(on the bell housing) the engine up and it will tilt to one side and this should give you enough room to remove the down pipe.
10-26-03, 11:20 PM
#4
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First order of business, let the car sit overnight (to cool off) and soak the four turbo manifold nuts and two cat nuts in liquid wrench or something similar. That makes removing them a lot easier.
Removing engine mounts is really not necessary. Basically, take off as many intake pipes as you can get to, take off the heat shield from the dp, and go at the nuts. I started with the turbo manifold side nuts, just cus they were harder to get to. It's much easier with two people, because you can have one spotting from below while the guy up top turns the wrench, or vise-versa. Theres not a whole lot to it except removing the nuts, and prying the thing loose with a screwdriver.
Make sure you have new gaskets for both ends, and you should be good to go.
Removing engine mounts is really not necessary. Basically, take off as many intake pipes as you can get to, take off the heat shield from the dp, and go at the nuts. I started with the turbo manifold side nuts, just cus they were harder to get to. It's much easier with two people, because you can have one spotting from below while the guy up top turns the wrench, or vise-versa. Theres not a whole lot to it except removing the nuts, and prying the thing loose with a screwdriver.
Make sure you have new gaskets for both ends, and you should be good to go.
10-26-03, 11:24 PM
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The best piece of advice is to get some very good penetrating oil (I suggest PB BLASTER) and apply to each of the downpipe bolts before touching them with a wrench.
Ideally, park the car, elevate it (high enough to work under) and make your first application of penetrating oil. Wait a few hours and apply some more. If you can do several applications over a day or so, all the better.
All the bolts are accessible from the bottom of the car but they are very difficult to get to. "Special" tools are suggested.
A "wiggle" ratchet or a crows foot, or a magic wrench (ratcheting open end/combo) work the best.
The bolts simply aren't accessible from the top unless you remove all the upper turbo piping and then it is still not easy. Access from the top is only good when a helper is up there assisting you with wrench placement.
It is a complete pain in the *** and you will believe it can't be done, but it can. The key is multiple applications of PB BLASTER (or equivalent) and then patience.
Ideally, park the car, elevate it (high enough to work under) and make your first application of penetrating oil. Wait a few hours and apply some more. If you can do several applications over a day or so, all the better.
All the bolts are accessible from the bottom of the car but they are very difficult to get to. "Special" tools are suggested.
A "wiggle" ratchet or a crows foot, or a magic wrench (ratcheting open end/combo) work the best.
The bolts simply aren't accessible from the top unless you remove all the upper turbo piping and then it is still not easy. Access from the top is only good when a helper is up there assisting you with wrench placement.
It is a complete pain in the *** and you will believe it can't be done, but it can. The key is multiple applications of PB BLASTER (or equivalent) and then patience.
10-26-03, 11:46 PM
#6
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PB Blaster is an absolute necessity.
I removed my factory precat a day after soaking the bolts. The car sat for over 2 years with a blown motor and 79k miles. I unbolted from underneath the car without moving the motor or anything. The only thing to watch that I encountered was that I needed to use a deep well 3/8 drive socket and added a 1" extension to one of the bolts. You may not need to do this since it is a downpipe instead of a precat. The reason I used the 1" extension was because the socket only fit partway on the bolt. With the extension it took some wiggling to get the socket on.
All four bolts broke free with no problems and dropped the precat from start to finish in about 45 minutes. No stripped bolts or stud problems. Precat slid right off with a bit of wiggling.
Good luck
Tim
I removed my factory precat a day after soaking the bolts. The car sat for over 2 years with a blown motor and 79k miles. I unbolted from underneath the car without moving the motor or anything. The only thing to watch that I encountered was that I needed to use a deep well 3/8 drive socket and added a 1" extension to one of the bolts. You may not need to do this since it is a downpipe instead of a precat. The reason I used the 1" extension was because the socket only fit partway on the bolt. With the extension it took some wiggling to get the socket on.
All four bolts broke free with no problems and dropped the precat from start to finish in about 45 minutes. No stripped bolts or stud problems. Precat slid right off with a bit of wiggling.
Good luck
Tim
10-27-03, 01:42 PM
#7
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Originally posted by WVRx7
The bolts simply aren't accessible from the top unless you remove all the upper turbo piping and then it is still not easy. Access from the top is only good when a helper is up there assisting you with wrench placement.
The bolts simply aren't accessible from the top unless you remove all the upper turbo piping and then it is still not easy. Access from the top is only good when a helper is up there assisting you with wrench placement.
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10-27-03, 05:55 PM
#9
Originally posted by 911GT2
Thats why I suggested having at least two people. I got my top two nuts ...
Thats why I suggested having at least two people. I got my top two nuts ...
And yes, spend extra time with the PB blaster and making damn sure your tools can access the pipe well. I also did my Y-pipe which gave me access top and bottom.
Dave
10-27-03, 08:10 PM
#11
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if i took it (hks dp)to an exhaust shop would they be able to do it without removing intake pipes...i'm a mechanic at a power plant and i don't really have alot of time and i want this done now
10-27-03, 08:26 PM
#12
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Many (not all) exhaust and/or mechanic shops will not remove a factory pre-cat to install a downpipe. Removal of a catalytic converter is a no no at mainstream shops.
Naturally, there are many places that won't give a damn and I am sure you could get it done.
Naturally, there are many places that won't give a damn and I am sure you could get it done.
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