lala

i am about to get a used RX7. 1993, almost 100k miles with auto tranny. Mods will be only BOV. Is it likely to blow up on me? I am new to rotory engine. I heard a lot of terrible stories about Rx-7 engine blow up. So here is my question. What mods do i need to do to make sure engine wont blow up on me. I heard i need to replace hoses, apex seals...etc. How high can i boost on stock turbo, stock engine w/o any problem? How much will it cost to replace the blown engine( include labor) w/ a brand new engine?

picazo505

Do u know anything about Rx7 ,well if u dont ,i dont recommend for u to get one my .02

futurerexowner

Hmm, I just wanted to let you know I didnt even bother to read your post... do a search on Google for Rob Ribinettes site, or I think it is in the Links section of the (Rx7club) Home page. Try reading, you have give in as much as you take out when it comes to learning things...

1FooknTiteFD

1st of all the one you are looking at is automatic, second of all it has 100k miles on it. IF the turbos and motor haven't been replaced then they will very well soon need to be.

Get a 5 speed with lower miles, then do the approriate mods to make it reliable:
single turbo
intercooler
fuel
reprogrammed ECU
upgraded radiator

that's should make it very reliable, but it'll cost you a small fortune

skunks

ha ha

JOES95RX7

The Rotary is not a car that anyone should buy if they are concerened about how much repairs cost. I would say the best guage for determining how much it will cost to fix is to look at the price of after market upgrade parts. The 7 is one of the most expensive to mod. Like any high proformance vehicle the 7 requires a meticulous maintenance schedule and an competent mechanic to expidite repairs. They also are very finicky. If you start modding it out and don't know exactly what your doing you can cause some expensive damage to the engine. Like your other threads... Why would anyone want to buy a auto.. The milage is not that big of a deal if you plan to go with new (3mm) apex seals. Because in order to do that you have to rebuild the engine and have the rotors machined to accomidate the larger seals. That will run around $5K if you have someone else do the work. If you still want to jump into the world of rotarys then I would suggest getting a second job possible a third and go to www.ILUVMYRX7.com and download the factory manual for your year 7. I would also recomend posting here before you do anything to mod the car so that experienced folks can guide you through it and you will still have a functional 7 when its all done.

Kiflin

An rx7 is a pretty reliable car as long as you take care of it. Change the oil commonly, pump it with premium, have it checked up on every month my a mechanic if needed, its the little things that keep it going.

lala

SO auto isnt recommend? Is it personal preference or its reliablility issue? I can get a good deal on this car thats why i want it. How much does it cost to replace the engine?

ricola555

Automatic? Automatic is for mini-vans and your fathers oldsmobile. Get a manual. Thats how sports cars should only come.

Kiflin

If only i could find a manual 7 in my area... but i found a auto in my area, and its a great deal. So i settled for a auto.

JUSTgotMINE

nothin wrong with an auto...it's still fun as hell

ricola555

yeah that sucks. I almost bought one because that was all I could find. Luckily the deal fell through and I was able to pimp the rig with a stick

Nathan Kwok

Auto's tend to be in better condition for the given mileage because the owners don't drive them as hard, so thats a plus for an auto. However, they are also more sensitive to low compression, so marginal engines that are fine in a manual won't idle properly with an auto. Just a few thoughts.

black99

Yes also I've heard horror stories with autos. I believe someone on the forum went through a couple auto transmissions in a couple months. I believe the car only had light mods. However you can always change the auto to a 5spd at a later date but I must agree I would rather have a 5 spd car.

WhtRocket

You can relay on have to drop about $500/month to keep it going and picking up a few upgrades along the way. Auto tranny - no. 100k not good. Yes, it is likley to blow up on YOU j/k. To prevent engine loss: find someone who knows about the FD, Stop immediately if anything breaks - tow truck is much cheaper than anything because......A Mazda reman motor is about $2800 not including install so figure $3500 for a basic reman. Nice engines from these guys cost more http://www.pineappleracing.com/ProdSvcs.html.
Set up turbos is about $1500 w/o install.
How high can you boost in a tired old engine and leaky turbos? about 10 psi. On fresh motors and turbos about 12-13 psi.

If you get this thing have all the fluids changed, fuel filter, all belts, plugs, buy a K&N drop in filter, replace the Air Separator tank but most important..............
Buy a new set of tires and maybe you will have it long enough to worry about reliability. Good luck! Enjoy.

skunks

This thread is so funny, it should be changed to a sticky ha ha ha

JimmyJimboJet

skunks, do you know how many threads like this that should be stickied? the mods should just create a sticky thread for 'post all your noob reliability questions here, and you will only get 2 thrashings from each of us...'

Unfair Advantage

http://rx7.voodoobox.net/infofaq/bguide3g/bguide3g.html

Read that.

If you're a gearhead, read this: http://home.istar.ca/~dvandit/rx7stuff.shtml

Then, if you're still interested, check this out:

http://www.kdrotary.com/price_list.html

That will give you somewhat of an idea as to what you're getting into price-wise. I don't know about the $500 a month comments. Unless you plan on tearing it up at the track or driving it hard 24/7, that's over-estimated IMO. I just paid $400 for a complete fluid change in my 94 rx-7, including 2 belts and high-quality fluids (not race fluids). 100k means the engine will need a rebuild/replaced more-than-likely in the near future (very near depending on how it was driven).

If auto is ok with u, and you are just into the RX because it's hawt and u can get it for a good deal, I say go for it...

The main reason I've been told why the engines blow is boost happy ****'s (which it sounds like you may qualify by your questions). Setting yourself up with boost comps and whatnot is all good if that's your thing, but not mapping them properly = Kaboom! and there goes at least 3.5k... I talked to at least 4 doods while trying to buy an FD that had blown engines due to similar or that issue.

If you're going to mod the engine up, at least do reliability mods, which will run minimal extra cost (and since you will likely be rebuilding/renewing the engine anyway, it should be done). See the KDrotary site for more on the appropriate reliability mods. Beyond that, get crazy with the cheez whiz...

UA

Unfair Advantage

...and wtf is so funny about this thread (not directed at the kind individuals who attempted to help)?

The dood wants to hook up with a RX-7, and wants some help from (supposedly) more edumacated ppl (*qualification - I am certainly more on the supposed end of that equation).

Can I sit at the back of the bus with the cool kids, or am I not l337 enuff?

Damn, you'd think the poor guy was a Jehova's Witness at your door the way you all rizipped him for being interested in the car you all have and love.

Don't hate, congratulate.

paw140

This question comes up AT LEAST once or twice per week. People are probably just sick of answering it over and over and over and over and over and over and over again. Especially when there's a newbie thread sticky at the top of the forum, and they could find answers to their questions with very little searching. I'm not saying he should be flamed or anything, but a little searching can answer 75% of the questions on this forum.

Unfair Advantage

It's the age of instant gratification, my friend. Most n00bs aren't going to have the patience (or brains?) to read the sticky let alone run a search.

It takes a lot more time to type out a sarcastic response than it does to just say "n00b" to yourself and click on another thread...and no one's forcing anyone to read, let alone answer, the thread in the first place. (You really get annoyed over this stuff? Wack.)

Momma always said, if you don't have something nice to say...

Snook

iTrader: (12)

definetaly get a manual the auto will not hold up(possible multiple rebuilds) and it also sucks to not have a manual in this car so you have no excuse...no reason to get an auto just wait for a better deal on a 5 speed
Don't ever get an auto fd if you can help it

paw140

I think it's more laziness than instant gratification. He could have gotten the answer to his questions faster if he would have searched, rather than post the question and wait for responses.

The newbie questions don't annoy me at all. But they can expect to get a hard time when they ask a question that gets asked every other day.

It's kinda like these telemarketing calls that I get. Sometimes I give them a hard time since I get aggravated when they call my house 3 times per day. I realize that it's not the same person calling every time, and they're probably different companies too. But getting the same call over and over again, and always cutting the person off and saying, "I'm not interested." get a little old.

BoostedRex

If you wanna replace the engine, check with Jerry Strickland at Clean and Fast LLC in Raleigh, NC. They will put a reman and new turbos in for you for $5K out the door. And they do first class work! I think that the auto vs. manual deal is purely personal preference. But you will be faster with a manual and you'll be able to hold more power from aftermarket mods. From what I've heard about 12 to 14lbs. of boost from the factory twins is about as good as it gets. But you'll have to mod the fuel system as well as the cooling system before you even think about something like that or else you'll be replacing the engine immediately. Best of luck bro.

Zach

WhtRocket

Ok maybe I was being a little too much of a smartass. At the same time I think most of the points I made are true. Maybe not hard rules but thing tend to work out in those general direction.
Like $500 a month. oK maybe across a few months it may not have cost that much but if you buy an FD with 100K on it you need to be spending that much to make procgress against the worn out parts nad get a few upgrades. Unless you don't want to really get it. At that mileage signifcant parts othe suspension are likely shot unless it's be rebuilt already. I know he says no other mods for now but how many people do yo know who stick to plan for long?

ONe more thing. With that many miles you better take a look at the top of the radiator. It should be cracking by now. Geta new one before the pipe breaks off the top and cooks the motor.

After owning mine for three years I think of a guy posting about buying one with 100k miles and think, gezze dude, you have no idea how much money this is really going ot cost you. Aside from the ususals like $1k for tires there is **** like oh say an air pump or A/C pump. How about this one, I dropped $600 on having all the studs that hold on the turbo and manifold replaced cause one of them broke.

To be clear, despite the cost I really enjoy mine. IN fact after a dyno run today I went up Calavaras road for a little run. Last week I did a run up to Tahoe and down through Yosimite. How's that commercial go Aold air intake $450, Cat back exhaust $550, Down pipe $300, Power FC $1000,... blowing the doors off you punk next to you....priceless! Good luck! Enjoy!