How-to: Rear wiper to IC spray
05-07-03, 01:30 PM
#1
King of the Duct Tape
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: PA
Posts: 1,177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How-to: Rear wiper to IC spray
Tools Needed:
Flathead and phillips screwdrivers
Ratchet with 8-10-12-14mm sockets
Snips/Pliers
Drill or something to cut your IC duct
Supplies Needed:
Zip ties
20ft 4mm silicon hose ($20 from hosetechniques)
Spray nozzle ($5.56 from mcmaster.com, pn:3178K87)
A "T" and a check valve, $4 from aquarium section of petsmart.
Ok here goes:
1 - Take cap off base of rear wiper, unscrew the 10mm nut underneath.
2 - Open hatch, remove plastic covering. You can just pull the main part off except for the two hangers, that hold the cargo dealie lines. I popped em out with pliers, breaking both in the process
They still work though.
3 - Unplug the wiper motor power. Unscrew the 3 screws holding the wiper motor to the hatch, one of which has a ground wire on it.
4 - Remove the wiper blade by holding the wiper and the motor. Twist the wiper back and forth while holding the motor and pull off. Both wiper and motor will come off.
5 - Remove the wiper mounting stuff, you may need the pliers for the large hex ring. Then plug up the hole with something. i used a cap and tape for a temp fix.
PIC- here's what it looks like without wiper motor
PIC- and here's the parts removed
6 - Reattach the hatch covering you removed to get to the wiper.
7 - remove the rubber around the hatch cargo area.
8 - remove the plastic covering the rear wiper resevoir, its also the piece around where the hatch latches.
PIC -what we're looking at now
9 - Drain the resevoir. Position a cup or something and run the spray until its empty.
10 - Remove the hose from the resevoir to the sprayer, it just pulled off for me.
PIC - the hose is the clear one
11 - Attach one end of your 20ft hose to the stem you just removed the stock sprayer hose from. I also secured it with a zip tie to make sure it stays.
PIC - its the black hose.
12 - Reattach the plastic covering, routing the hose underneath it. Careful not to pinch the hose somewhere.
**YOUR SPRAYER WILL LEAK IF YOU DON'T DO THIS***
Run the hose straight up from the resevoir, bend it near 90deg, and cut it. Put your T in the middle, then on the part of the T facing up, attach your check valve with a short bit of hose. this will defeat any "siphon effect" your setup creates, causing it to leak.
13 - Now we route the hose under the driver side dash near the fuse box there to go through the fire wall. I just ran it along my bose stuff, over the divider and along the carpet. A better way would be to go behind the plastic panel that covers the seat belt mechanism and cut under the carpet where your scuff things are.
PIC - where we're going with the hose
14 - Loosen lugs on driver front wheel
15 - Jack driver front w/ all safety precautions
16 - Remove wheel
17 - Remove rear half of wheel well liner. Its held in with 8mm screws and those plastic fasteners w/phillips screws in them. You gotta pull it hard, but it will move.
18 - facing the rear of the car there will be a hole with a cap over it. take the cap off, it can be a pain though.
19 - Punch a hole in the insulation with a screwdriver or something.
20 - to get the hose through i crammed my socket extender through the hole and taped the hose to it, then pulled back through.
PIC - extender crammed through hole
PIC - and here it is through
21 - Above and to the left, now facing the engine bay there is an access point to the engine bay that comes out around the cruise control unit if you have it. in the rear driver side corner of the bay. sorry no pic.
22 - From here route the hose up to the IC as you see fit, securing with zip ties where necessary.
23 - Now is a good time to attach the nozzle. I didn't do this very well. The nozzle has 10mm thread on it (i think) and i couldn't find any hardware to screw on to it that would work well with the hose. So i split the hose down the middle and secured it with tape and zip ties.
PIC -hose positioned on nozzle
24 - Once mounted fill up the resevoir in the rear and test the sprayer out. Car must be on for pump to run. Make sure it has no leaks, and sprays well.
25 - Now remove your IC and IC duct
26 - Route the nozzle through the front of the duct and temporarily secure it in different positions to find the best one. To get the aim down i taped a piece of paper in front of the duct and sprayed it. you'll want the nozzle to be as far from the IC is possible
27 - once your aim is down mark where you are going to cut a hole for your hose to run through. since we're low on space in this area make sure there is room to run the hose
28 - now cut your duct where you marked it and run the nozzle in by way of how it will be when finished, mounting it where you got your aim down at. to mount it i used zip ties i cut holes in the duct for and mounting tape
29 - Replace the duct with sprayer in its final position. confirm it sprays and is aimed well
Put everything together, you're done.
I have seen good results with this. After the IC heatsoaks i spray the IC at a standstill and soon after i start moving my intake temps on the PFC decrease faster than ever before. Also i have a radioshack temp sensor in the duct that shows an increase in temp relative to the IC temp. this too shows lower temps after spraying. so hopefully yours will work well. the general concept is fine, i'm sure some of you noticed the new Evo has an IC spray from the factory.
no guarantees, and i followed the IC spray directions from here mostly:
ic spray
Flathead and phillips screwdrivers
Ratchet with 8-10-12-14mm sockets
Snips/Pliers
Drill or something to cut your IC duct
Supplies Needed:
Zip ties
20ft 4mm silicon hose ($20 from hosetechniques)
Spray nozzle ($5.56 from mcmaster.com, pn:3178K87)
A "T" and a check valve, $4 from aquarium section of petsmart.
Ok here goes:
1 - Take cap off base of rear wiper, unscrew the 10mm nut underneath.
2 - Open hatch, remove plastic covering. You can just pull the main part off except for the two hangers, that hold the cargo dealie lines. I popped em out with pliers, breaking both in the process
They still work though.3 - Unplug the wiper motor power. Unscrew the 3 screws holding the wiper motor to the hatch, one of which has a ground wire on it.
4 - Remove the wiper blade by holding the wiper and the motor. Twist the wiper back and forth while holding the motor and pull off. Both wiper and motor will come off.
5 - Remove the wiper mounting stuff, you may need the pliers for the large hex ring. Then plug up the hole with something. i used a cap and tape for a temp fix.
PIC- here's what it looks like without wiper motor
PIC- and here's the parts removed
6 - Reattach the hatch covering you removed to get to the wiper.
7 - remove the rubber around the hatch cargo area.
8 - remove the plastic covering the rear wiper resevoir, its also the piece around where the hatch latches.
PIC -what we're looking at now
9 - Drain the resevoir. Position a cup or something and run the spray until its empty.
10 - Remove the hose from the resevoir to the sprayer, it just pulled off for me.
PIC - the hose is the clear one
11 - Attach one end of your 20ft hose to the stem you just removed the stock sprayer hose from. I also secured it with a zip tie to make sure it stays.
PIC - its the black hose.
12 - Reattach the plastic covering, routing the hose underneath it. Careful not to pinch the hose somewhere.
**YOUR SPRAYER WILL LEAK IF YOU DON'T DO THIS***
Run the hose straight up from the resevoir, bend it near 90deg, and cut it. Put your T in the middle, then on the part of the T facing up, attach your check valve with a short bit of hose. this will defeat any "siphon effect" your setup creates, causing it to leak.
13 - Now we route the hose under the driver side dash near the fuse box there to go through the fire wall. I just ran it along my bose stuff, over the divider and along the carpet. A better way would be to go behind the plastic panel that covers the seat belt mechanism and cut under the carpet where your scuff things are.
PIC - where we're going with the hose
14 - Loosen lugs on driver front wheel
15 - Jack driver front w/ all safety precautions
16 - Remove wheel
17 - Remove rear half of wheel well liner. Its held in with 8mm screws and those plastic fasteners w/phillips screws in them. You gotta pull it hard, but it will move.
18 - facing the rear of the car there will be a hole with a cap over it. take the cap off, it can be a pain though.
19 - Punch a hole in the insulation with a screwdriver or something.
20 - to get the hose through i crammed my socket extender through the hole and taped the hose to it, then pulled back through.
PIC - extender crammed through hole
PIC - and here it is through
21 - Above and to the left, now facing the engine bay there is an access point to the engine bay that comes out around the cruise control unit if you have it. in the rear driver side corner of the bay. sorry no pic.
22 - From here route the hose up to the IC as you see fit, securing with zip ties where necessary.
23 - Now is a good time to attach the nozzle. I didn't do this very well. The nozzle has 10mm thread on it (i think) and i couldn't find any hardware to screw on to it that would work well with the hose. So i split the hose down the middle and secured it with tape and zip ties.
PIC -hose positioned on nozzle
24 - Once mounted fill up the resevoir in the rear and test the sprayer out. Car must be on for pump to run. Make sure it has no leaks, and sprays well.
25 - Now remove your IC and IC duct
26 - Route the nozzle through the front of the duct and temporarily secure it in different positions to find the best one. To get the aim down i taped a piece of paper in front of the duct and sprayed it. you'll want the nozzle to be as far from the IC is possible
27 - once your aim is down mark where you are going to cut a hole for your hose to run through. since we're low on space in this area make sure there is room to run the hose
28 - now cut your duct where you marked it and run the nozzle in by way of how it will be when finished, mounting it where you got your aim down at. to mount it i used zip ties i cut holes in the duct for and mounting tape
29 - Replace the duct with sprayer in its final position. confirm it sprays and is aimed well
Put everything together, you're done.
I have seen good results with this. After the IC heatsoaks i spray the IC at a standstill and soon after i start moving my intake temps on the PFC decrease faster than ever before. Also i have a radioshack temp sensor in the duct that shows an increase in temp relative to the IC temp. this too shows lower temps after spraying. so hopefully yours will work well. the general concept is fine, i'm sure some of you noticed the new Evo has an IC spray from the factory.
no guarantees, and i followed the IC spray directions from here mostly:
ic spray
05-11-03, 04:19 AM
#7
The Spirit of FLUFF!
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: East Highland, CA
Posts: 1,350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
very nice job. I never really thought of using the rear sprayer, but it does make more sense since it is in the back away from engine heat! Have you tried the dry ice idea yet? I wonder if that would work or if it would cause a problem......hmmmmm. Anyways, nice work dude, thanks for the write up!
Trending Topics
05-12-03, 09:58 AM
#11
Ex fd *****
On Canadian FD's the rear tank supplies both the rear window washer & the Headlight washer, in the US only Tourings have a rear tank and we did not get headlight washers. They got them in canada because of the canadian requirement for daytime running lights.
05-12-03, 10:13 AM
#12
King of the Duct Tape
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: PA
Posts: 1,177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
UPDATE
I rerouted the hose to go behind the plastic piece that covers the seatbest stuff, then ran it under the carpet and to the firewall. by stuffing it in with my bose stuff you can't hardly see it at all...oh, except my tetra aquarium check valve, but i'll want to show that off for the bling factor
btw, the T and check valve cost $6 from petsmart, install took ~30sec and no more leaking
Cihuuy - that last pic is inside the IC duct. i have the pettite coolcharge 2 IC and thats pettit's duct. see the hump behind the sprayer, closer to the duct tape
?
thats where i finally set it. just the other day i did my paper test (cover front of IC with paper) to check the spray pattern and its still covering most of the IC surface, so the mounting is holdin up ok.
I rerouted the hose to go behind the plastic piece that covers the seatbest stuff, then ran it under the carpet and to the firewall. by stuffing it in with my bose stuff you can't hardly see it at all...oh, except my tetra aquarium check valve, but i'll want to show that off for the bling factor
btw, the T and check valve cost $6 from petsmart, install took ~30sec and no more leaking Cihuuy - that last pic is inside the IC duct. i have the pettite coolcharge 2 IC and thats pettit's duct. see the hump behind the sprayer, closer to the duct tape
? thats where i finally set it. just the other day i did my paper test (cover front of IC with paper) to check the spray pattern and its still covering most of the IC surface, so the mounting is holdin up ok.
05-12-03, 10:48 AM
#14
King of the Duct Tape
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: PA
Posts: 1,177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The temp improvement is most evident after heavy boosting. My intake temp read by the PFC stays right around the temp measured near my intake, a pettit system.
Now the intake temps have their own issue. With a "not quite cold air" intake, the IC may no longer be heating the intake air but when the intake air temp starts to rise there is only so much the IC can do, especially at idle.
I recently found these numbers on the scuderia site comparing intakes:
STOCK M2 PETTIT
IDLE 147.4 137.5 162.3
HIGHWAY 97.7 112.5 124.2
VALLEY 90.8 104.2 122.9
And as you can imagine at idle is where most intake temp problems occur. I noticed that once the rad fans kick on the temp around the intake increases rapidly, apparently that air gets blown right around the heat shield. i'll either be going to an m2 box or trying to fab another heatshield to put behind the intakes.
cliffnotes: good temp improvement after boosting, main side effect is having a gatorade bottle of ice water in storage bin.
Now the intake temps have their own issue. With a "not quite cold air" intake, the IC may no longer be heating the intake air but when the intake air temp starts to rise there is only so much the IC can do, especially at idle.
I recently found these numbers on the scuderia site comparing intakes:
STOCK M2 PETTIT
IDLE 147.4 137.5 162.3
HIGHWAY 97.7 112.5 124.2
VALLEY 90.8 104.2 122.9
And as you can imagine at idle is where most intake temp problems occur. I noticed that once the rad fans kick on the temp around the intake increases rapidly, apparently that air gets blown right around the heat shield. i'll either be going to an m2 box or trying to fab another heatshield to put behind the intakes.
cliffnotes: good temp improvement after boosting, main side effect is having a gatorade bottle of ice water in storage bin.
