How much would the Reliability Mods cost me? and what are they
07-30-02, 10:31 AM
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How much would the Reliability Mods cost me? and what are they
How much would the Reliability Mods cost me and what are they ...... also the 7 that i'm lookin forward on buying is a fully stock 93.
07-30-02, 10:41 AM
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assuming you install yourself 
The guages aren't hard, the dp is not that hard if you get the m2 one, AST is very simple, radiator is not too easy, hoses are a PITA
The guages aren't hard, the dp is not that hard if you get the m2 one, AST is very simple, radiator is not too easy, hoses are a PITA
07-30-02, 10:48 AM
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DP: 150 (used) - 300 (new)
Radiator: 250 (used) - 600 (new)
Gauges [boost/water temp] 50 (used) - 300 (new)
Alum AST: 150 (new) or eliminate 30 (new)
Hoses/tie wraps: 50-100 (new)
I'd also change the fuel filter, oil/oil filter, tranny fluid, etc etc.
Danny
Radiator: 250 (used) - 600 (new)
Gauges [boost/water temp] 50 (used) - 300 (new)
Alum AST: 150 (new) or eliminate 30 (new)
Hoses/tie wraps: 50-100 (new)
I'd also change the fuel filter, oil/oil filter, tranny fluid, etc etc.
Danny
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07-30-02, 01:01 PM
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Originally posted by SiKoPaThX
im confused, god I hope I don't get flamed for this, but doesn't the car already have a water temperature gauge? What's wrong with it?
im confused, god I hope I don't get flamed for this, but doesn't the car already have a water temperature gauge? What's wrong with it?
Because the stock gauge won't show a rise in water temp until it's very, very hot and too late."
http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobi...temp_gauge.htm
07-30-02, 01:17 PM
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I was told that if your not racing nor durbing on it you dont need the so called reliability mods. Just keep the fluid fresh especially the coolant and engine oil.
This was told to me by an rx7 specialist/mechanic
This was told to me by an rx7 specialist/mechanic
07-30-02, 01:24 PM
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I speak from experience, getting a new radiator is just as important as a new AST. My radiator went before my AST did and it cost me dearly 
Trust your mechanic all you want but if you want the car to last a long time with fewer worries then DO the "so called reliability mods". + you can't tell me you don't 'race' your car
Trust your mechanic all you want but if you want the car to last a long time with fewer worries then DO the "so called reliability mods". + you can't tell me you don't 'race' your car
07-30-02, 01:39 PM
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No, really dont race the car anymore. I 've had it since Oct 92 and I hardly take it up anymore. The car is totally stock except for the clutch and I wish I replaced it with a stock one when it went out. I would totally do the reliability mods if my rotary mechanic told me to. But he told me I do not need to because I'm not harsh on it.
07-30-02, 01:46 PM
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Radiator is an absolute must. Especially if you are buying an FD with higher mileage. The plastic top tank on the stock radiator cracks and, as everyone already knows, overheating on an RX-7 is VERY BAD. www.absoluteradiator.com is a great place to find an all-aluminum radiator; Koyo for $375, Fluidyne for $412.
You can use a mild steel downpipe (it won't last as long as a stainless steel one), and those are typically $250, new. The Autometer boost gauge should be able to be found for $100, new. Some forum members might have a extra one that they'd be willing to give away. And the silicone hoses, make sure you use some silicone sealant and tie-wrap EVERYTHING. Give yourself at least 2 weeks to fully complete the job ... and for your sake, follow the simple rule: one hose at a time.
If you're going to pay for someone to do the work, I would say let an expert do the radiator. I did that simply because I've never taken the front clip off of any car. It tagged on an extra $110 for the labor and the flush ... not too bad.
You can use a mild steel downpipe (it won't last as long as a stainless steel one), and those are typically $250, new. The Autometer boost gauge should be able to be found for $100, new. Some forum members might have a extra one that they'd be willing to give away. And the silicone hoses, make sure you use some silicone sealant and tie-wrap EVERYTHING. Give yourself at least 2 weeks to fully complete the job ... and for your sake, follow the simple rule: one hose at a time.
If you're going to pay for someone to do the work, I would say let an expert do the radiator. I did that simply because I've never taken the front clip off of any car. It tagged on an extra $110 for the labor and the flush ... not too bad.
Last edited by redrotorR1; 07-30-02 at 01:51 PM.
07-30-02, 01:51 PM
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Originally posted by markyb
No, really dont race the car anymore. I 've had it since Oct 92 and I hardly take it up anymore. The car is totally stock except for the clutch and I wish I replaced it with a stock one when it went out. I would totally do the reliability mods if my rotary mechanic told me to. But he told me I do not need to because I'm not harsh on it.
No, really dont race the car anymore. I 've had it since Oct 92 and I hardly take it up anymore. The car is totally stock except for the clutch and I wish I replaced it with a stock one when it went out. I would totally do the reliability mods if my rotary mechanic told me to. But he told me I do not need to because I'm not harsh on it.
07-30-02, 01:56 PM
#16
I'm a CF and poop smith
All the relibility mods should cost ya about 2-3k I say, well thats if you live in Hawaii and you gotta ship everything 1st or 2nd day air via USP or FexEx which pretty much nearly doubles the price of everything.
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