I have a 05 evo 8 Mr and was looking to sell it for something rwd and that is turbo also. I have seen 3rd gens going for pretty cheap where i live and had a few questions.

First my evo is making around 350whp, what would it take to make the rx7 get to that power range?

Second how much power can the stock 13b handle? From what i read if i bought a 3rd gen i would want to rebuild the motor asap. Since i dont know the history of the car/motor i wouldnt want to chance it.

I have seen some pretty awsome 20b vids but i know that it would be a pain/ money pit. Also the LS1 v8 swaps i think are pretty dumb, its not a rx7 anymore if it doesnt have a rotory motor imo. If i wanted a LS motor i would just get a vett. Whats the most HP you can get out of a 13b with say 93 octane and alky injection?

 

Well allow me to be the first to say:READ UP SOME MORE!

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/

 

There are a lot of variables in answering your question. The block itself, if built properly, can make 650+ rwhp. It's all the attributes (turbo, fuel, tuning) that determine how much power you will make.

 

+1 best place to start

 

Full bolt-ons, ECU and boost at 15 PSI will do that.

It can take quite a bit. However, it all depends on air: how much air are you bringing in. You want to make more power, you need a larger turbo. Realistically, you can only expect about 360rwhp out of the stock twins. Sure, 1% of the people have on higher on the stock twins, but us mortals will be stuck around that level.

If you want more power, you'll need a turbo and fuel upgrade. People have done well over 400rwhp on stock blocks (i.e. stock ports) using single turbos.

 

soo from what i read if i get a full exhaust, Boost controller, Ecu reflash or EM , and bigger intercooler it will make 360hp? what would that be at the wheels though? my evo is awd and is putting down 350whp and alot of the power gets lost to the drivetrain. soo my motor is probly makeing almost 390 400 crank hp.

 

There is a difference here:

1. Running 350rwhp daily all day
2. Hitting 350rwhp but only running it that high every now and then (at a drag strip or the occasional street race)

Those can be two different setups, the #1 costing some more money to make happen.

So which are you looking to do?

 

1. We're not a Civic forum, we only talk in terms of rear wheel hp here.
2. A 350 rwhp FD will spank the bejesus out of a 350 awhp Evo....from a roll.
3. Read the FAQ thread before asking basic questions.

This is not a car to cheap out on AT ALL. The purchase price should be considered a STARTING point. To go from a stock FD to one RELIABLY making 350 rwhp, you are looking at $4k+ in parts, without install labor.

 

You aren't factoring in upgrading your fuel system..Go ahead and get a full exhaust and crank up the boost and watch what happens

 

I mean i want to build it to be able to drive it like its ment to be driven. I dont want to have to worry about if i floor it is a rotor going to blow out the side of my fender. I really never seen 3rd gen rx7s and when i do its a real treat. I have always had a thing for rotory engines the sound is just amazing. I will read all the links you guys posted up thanks alot!

 

yes i know i will have to upgrade the fuel system that is a given.. i am not new to moding cars just new to rotory engines.

 

My last FD was 315 rwhp but I bought it in good shape,

My FD now I bought for 6,400
New wiring harness, 700 new coils 350, new SS omp lines 90, new clutch 450, new flywheel 220, auto counterweight 120, spark plug wires 50, power fc 725, intakes 200, high flow cat 325, downpipe 100, exhaust 425, various gaskets 50, viton hoses 260, radiator 420, radiator hoses 40, supra pump 170 and other unrelated power stuff superpro bushings 520, noltec motor mounts 260, steel motor arm 40 and even stuff I can't even remeber, plus paint and it is what I would consider STARTING to look good...

But that negates the fact that you will want wheels, tires, maybe suspension, brakes, also if you want to be running around your mark maybe an ignition booster (HKS Twin Power) ,an Intercooler (1000-1500), boost controller 300-500.....

So it is definitively not cheap as has been said but the payback is enormous. Ohh I forgot to mention it is not a one time thing the maintenance costs also follow after spending all the dough

Have fun and good luck,

Alex

 

$4k is probably even going on the conservative side,considering that if you want a reliable 350 rwhp,chances are you don't want to do that on the stock twins..

 

Good point, although how most people actually use their cars, the stock twins could probably last quite a while in that state (ie, not tracking the car at 15 psi).

 

Listen to rynberg, he knows what he is saying. As others have stated, full bolt ons, with IC, ECU, and tune @ 15psi will be around 350RWHP. A streetport helps tremendously. Remember this is a very lightweight sportscar though. It isn't a family sedan like the EVO.

If you tune it correctly, apex seals and rotors wont go flying. It's no different than your 4G63, you still have to tune it correctly, you can't just turn the boost up and down like a radio dial.

 

I just came in to say that when you detonate a rotary is nothing like detonating a piston engine, where you end up with a rod through the hood and pieces of your engine on the floor.

A blown rotary engine still runs. I just blew mine up a week and half ago, (over boosted by 13 psi) and friday I drove it to a body shop. I'm picking it up tonight and I plan to drive it home.

 

I still can't believe you overboosted by that much!

 

One thing im still wondering about is whats the difference between a built rotory and a stock one? Are the rotors stronger? or does it have more to do with porting and better seals ect.

 

I can, if a wastegate line pops off anything can happen. mine overboosted also and blew an apex seal and it still ran. just not real good.

 

you can get lightened rotors and such, but thats not really building them. you can get ported engines, intake and exhaust ports and get thicker apex seals. 3mm as opposed to 2mm. other than that your not really building the engine.

 

I have read in a situation where a 2mm seal breaks, generally a 3mm one will as well. I've researched that OEM seals are very strong. In fact I'm going to full OEM 2mm seals for a 550WHP build.

 

you can get alot of hp from the 13b, if you find some-one who is a GREAT rotary builder with the porting, and right exhaust..as well as many other things..but 13b can put some serious power out turbo or not..

 

you live in NJ, PM GoodFellaFD3S he lives in the area and he will be the BEST resource in your area for fd's, you'll thank me later I promise

 

Your best resource would be JPR imports in south jersey. Jim is a stand up guy who will take you through the whole process. 8562271808. Rich is great, but to my knowledge he does not have a shop?