well see if ill be pushing or jumping up and down win i hit the time i want.....so thats 1st gear,2nd ,third right?

 

3rd

 

Ok do all your reliability mods first "$1,000". Then if you want to maximize your time at the track, you need to upgrade the rear diff . A clutch style turbo II diff "$400.00 will work just fine plus it's not loud like the KAAZ. Upgrade the axles "$700.00. Those will be your next week point. Get a diff brace $165.00" to cut down the wheel hop and a torque brace $150.00" to help with the missed shifts you will get. Buy some ET streets (don't know the prices) to help with your 60ft times. Upgrade your clutch "$400.00". Take your pick. This will provide you with the decent foundation for track/street use. Thats about $2,900.00 if you can install these things yourself it will save you a **** load of money.

If I were you thats exactly how I would spend my money in the beginning. You see doing your mods in this order will save you a ton of money in the long run because then your not breaking stuff at the track with stock parts. That gets very expensive. Plus sell your stock parts for some change. After you have perfected your launching at the track, then I suggest you worry about hp upgrades. Buy then you will have saved enough money along with the "$1,000.00" you have left to buy:

ecu $1,400.00
down & mid pipes from ebay $150.00
cat back $400.00
IC & intake $900.00
fuel pump $90.00
upgraded injectors (don't know the prices)
wide band dyno tuning $200.00

Keep in mind that over 6 grand and your still not finished. Also it depends on your ability to buy these parts cheap and install yourself or it will get much much higher.

 

3rd?,,nice advice t-von..thanks

 

Oddly enough I never did any of those items and ran a 10 second 1/4 mile on M & H DoT tires plus 100's of other drag runs over the course of years without any problems. The only problems I had was in the first year of owning the car the differential exploded from trying to drag race on hard sidewall tires with extreme wheel hop. Using M & H's solved that. The other thing that happened is I cracked my differential subframe because the bolts holding it to the diff came loose allowing it to shift in the loose area with each load change, got it welded up while at the drag strip and tightened the bolts down to never have a problem again with it. So get some soft sidewall tires if you want to launch and make sure all the bolts are tight : ). It seems some people break axels now, I never had a problem but only ran 1.62 60's and never got around to using my slicks.

The common denomenator between both posts are tires. They'll absorb all the shock causing the problems with the diff etc. when drag racing.

Kevin T. Wyum

 

Well I believe Boosted7 has this similar setup and his best 60 was like a 1.49 with ET streets. He's the one that ran the 10.9 with stock turbos. If you are able to run those 60's times with just softer tires and tighning of all the stock bolts, then I guess I've been misinformed buy all of my research on this forum.

Kevin what rpm do you launch at?

 

hmmmm...

 

10-8-10 is not the boost you get in 1st 2nd 3rd.
It's how your boost pattern should run through the gear. First 10 then a dip to 8 during the transition from your primary turbo to your secondary. It should then go back up to 10 and hold it to redline or almost to redline.

 

So you brought this thread back from the dead to explain something that is plainly obvious?

 

wow well that was good info X-JaVeN-X
cuz i didnt know that..thanks and this whole time i thought is was 1 gear, 2nd, and 3rd...stupid me...very...<---dumb rx7 owner thanks

 

well, it all depends on how high your wing goes......