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how much horse power can a stock 93rx7?

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Old Feb 4, 2004 | 06:25 PM
  #26  
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Last edited by toyoter91; Feb 4, 2004 at 06:45 PM.
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Old Feb 4, 2004 | 06:42 PM
  #27  
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whooow there buddy...your crackin' on this guy because he wanted some advice from some of the guru's on this site to help him along his way? Maybe this IS his research pal. You dont even OWN an FD...so back off...god i hate **** talkers...no worries Mazda V
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Old Feb 4, 2004 | 07:47 PM
  #28  
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Originally posted by DMRH
The power figure is not quite that as there was 3 power levels to the FD production life.

92-95 = series-6 = 255hp
96-98 = series-7 = 265hp
99-02 = series-8 = 280hp

I to confirm that the best you should hope for whilst maintaining the twin turbo's is around 400hp. Not exceeding 16psi that is as they pop very quickly over that.

REgards
he originally posted a "93rx7" so im assuming he ment the series 6... hence i posted 255hp
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Old Feb 4, 2004 | 08:34 PM
  #29  
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i have a rx7 and i dont want a fucken 240..jackass if you dont have advice dont type.!!!
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 12:04 AM
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Hey, I had a 240SX, and they are a great driver's car! Don't worry about these guys, they just have sand in their...eh, you know the routine. You did come on here sounding like you just wanted us to tell you some magical formula for 10 second ets, so you're bound to get a little flak from trolls, or knowledgeable people getting tired of these newb dreams. Like any car, just start researching, quietly, read people's posts, find out what's been done in the past, and read up on new-found tips and tricks. Coming on a forum like this, and asking the "silly questions" will churn up some eThugs, but just shake it off, but keep this in mind in the future, this has been a learning experience for all of us... people on forums are not nice, so don't expect them to shower you with knowledge if you've clearly not done any research prior to starting a thread asking how to escape from your life for 10 seconds at a time. Enjoi!

P.S. The top recommendations are: NOS (as much as possible dawg); huge exhaust, the bigger the better!;the loudest BOV you can buy.
I recommend the aluminum wing(aluminum is light weight);graphics(they make you look hella fast, and intimidate the competition);neon lighting(again, intimidates people from questioning your 10 second claims)and as much LED lighting as possible, adding in subs and dubs where necessary.
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 02:37 AM
  #31  
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haha very funny people also i like the trickery there "test car" i was thinking of doing that too..thanks alot,peoples
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 02:47 AM
  #32  
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Originally posted by TESTCAR
P.S. The top recommendations are: NOS (as much as possible dawg); huge exhaust, the bigger the better!;the loudest BOV you can buy.
I recommend the aluminum wing(aluminum is light weight);graphics(they make you look hella fast, and intimidate the competition);neon lighting(again, intimidates people from questioning your 10 second claims)and as much LED lighting as possible, adding in subs and dubs where necessary.
I assume you are joking....if not.....
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 04:03 AM
  #33  
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From: UWM
No, I'm totally serious, if you need a recipe for performance, just ask, and I shall deliver.


Of course I'm totally kidding...
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 04:48 AM
  #34  
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For now just make a 12sec RELIABLE car. $2k will get you there. And have other $2k for uneventful repairs.
Then start from there. In the meantime you will spend enough time on the boards to know most of the stuff you need to ask now anyway.

10sec car is as fast as some of the fastest stock motorbikes. So you can imagine it will not be an easy task. Move in smaller steps... you know - step by step.

If you want to go all out and make a 10sec from the start, you will need more then $4k.

Supra may then be a better choice...

Oh and learn to differentiate between good and bad advice
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 04:59 AM
  #35  
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No worries bro, like ^ said. You are not going to make your car into a 10 sec demon overnight. Do a lot of research before you buy anything, because you might end up in a thread titled "Mods I regret getting" .
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 12:55 PM
  #36  
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cruiser... a 12sec reliable for $2k? good lord, could you please fill me in? low 12's is what i'm looking to do with my FD (12.25ish) but i don't think i'll ever really push it like that... i'm one of those love my car guys... all i want is to know that if i wanted to, i could, ya know? i pretty much never go more than 5-10mph over limit, just enjoy the look/feel of my car. anyways though, seriously, can you really build a12s reliable for $2k?
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 01:50 PM
  #37  
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I apologize for being an *** but your post was a bit rediculous. Anyways here is what you need to do. Go look up Rob Robinette on google. When you find his rx7 site you need to read every single thing written. I about three weeks when your done you can can come back here and start posting. I think by then, you will see why you have recieved so much negative feedback.
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 02:00 PM
  #38  
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You are going to need a lot more than 10 grand. I'm sure the car nees some TLC. Inseatd of asking a silly question please use the search and you won't get flammed as much. We are all pretty sensitive on this fourm. We love our rotarys and we don't like to see or hear about some kids f'n them up.

Have fun w/ your new car and be safe. Please read all the 3rd gen archive files.
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 02:38 PM
  #39  
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mazda v,

Start with the basics first:

Fluidyne Radiator - 435
ASI AST - 170
Boost Gauge - 65 to 200
Water Temp Gauge - 65 to 200
Pillar Pod - 40
Miata Thermoswitch - 65
GReddy PRofec B2 Boost Controller - 315
Tokico/Koni Struts - 500
Racing Beat/Eibach/H&R Lowing springs - 230
Hawk Brake pads - 120
SS Brake Lines - 120
Intake (your choice) - 250

Other than that, check your tires to see if you need some new tread. Check your suspension for any clunking or extra play in the bushings.
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 03:20 PM
  #40  
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Originally posted by pugg57
cruiser... a 12sec reliable for $2k? good lord, could you please fill me in? low 12's is what i'm looking to do with my FD (12.25ish) but i don't think i'll ever really push it like that... i'm one of those love my car guys... all i want is to know that if i wanted to, i could, ya know? i pretty much never go more than 5-10mph over limit, just enjoy the look/feel of my car. anyways though, seriously, can you really build a12s reliable for $2k?
Yes, if you shop around on the boards it shouldnt be too hard. Or $3k for that matter.
$300 koyo radiator
$100 alu AST
$700 IC & intake
$400 Aftermarket ECU
$150 DP
$200 Catback
+ some maintenanace for $200

This should get you into 12sec I think. Not low 12 though. I never claimed that. But that wasnt the point of my post anyway...
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 03:21 PM
  #41  
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greatest thread evar!!!!!!11!!1!!

do people even have an understanding of how fast 10 seconds is? i've rode in a probally high 11 second fd and that was just scary.

btw, you owe me a 10 second car.
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 03:21 PM
  #42  
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And... as in reliable I meant some realiability mods. You cant have a reliable boosted rotary. Opposite terms
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 03:27 PM
  #43  
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Originally posted by Mahjik
mazda v,

Start with the basics first:

Fluidyne Radiator - 435
ASI AST - 170
Boost Gauge - 65 to 200
Water Temp Gauge - 65 to 200
Pillar Pod - 40
Miata Thermoswitch - 65
GReddy PRofec B2 Boost Controller - 315
Tokico/Koni Struts - 500
Racing Beat/Eibach/H&R Lowing springs - 230
Hawk Brake pads - 120
SS Brake Lines - 120
Intake (your choice) - 250

Other than that, check your tires to see if you need some new tread. Check your suspension for any clunking or extra play in the bushings.
I've never heard about the Miata Thermoswitch...whats up with that?
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 03:43 PM
  #44  
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Originally posted by RotaSpinna69
I've never heard about the Miata Thermoswitch...whats up with that?
The Miata Thermoswitch replaces the stock thermoswitch, which is what tells the fans to come on at a specific temperature. The Miata version has a lower threshold so the fans come on earlier (around 210F instead of the stock 220F).

It's much better than the fan mod since it's automatic and doesn't require the driver/user to remember to hit a switch. However, it's harder to install than the fan mod.
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 05:19 PM
  #45  
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Originally posted by spoolin93r1
there's plenty of people on the board that are capable of 10's, but don't go to the track. all it takes is 450+rwhp and some good driving. most anyone with a t78 could do it with turbo blue and 20-21psi. goin to the track just doesn't tickle a lot of people's fancy, plus noone wants to put cages in their car to make them legal. there's even the one guy with twins that recently went 10.99. he put down 404whp before he got a ported motor, so he's probably around 430-440whp now
It's not nearly as easy as people seem to think. I even had to use the NHRA correction for the track I was on to put me in the 10's, given it was a stock unported motor and modified stock twins 7 years ago but...a big turbo and high boost doesn't mean much if everything else isn't set up properly and a GOOD driver is at the wheel.

Capable is a nice way of saying wishful thinking. There's a very small handful of people that are capable of running 10's with a streetable 3rd gen, maybe 5. Until the car run's even a gimpy corrected 10 (like me)
with you at the wheel you're not capable of a 10 no matter what's written down or what the dynojet told you. Not trying to be a dink but years of street and drag racing has taught me that what someone thinks a car should do and what it really does are extemely different things and also doesn't give enough credit to the drivers that can actually do it.

Kevin T. Wyum

The people that are supposed to run 10's on paper always have a lot of something else when they finish a race, excuses.
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Old Feb 5, 2004 | 07:51 PM
  #46  
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Just as Kevin stated, don't ask about the car until you can come up with a time slip of 13.7 or better with a completely stock car. For that matter even with a lightly modded car. When your performance can match the car then take the machine to the next step (mid 12s, NOT 10), so on and so forth.
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Old Feb 6, 2004 | 12:54 PM
  #47  
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wow that miata thermo is very interesting.. thanks for all the help i think i dont have any more questions..ill let you guys know when i hit that 11 sec..for a starter...for now im going to get a turbo kit, ast, intercooler,intake,petit m2 ecu, all new vac lines... thanks for the help peoples
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Old Feb 6, 2004 | 01:00 PM
  #48  
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the boost that im supposed to have on my car is 10-8-10, right? just to make sure is that 1st,2nd,and third, and if its not then what do you do to make it right?
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Old Feb 6, 2004 | 01:22 PM
  #49  
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Originally posted by mazda v
the boost that im supposed to have on my car is 10-8-10, right? just to make sure is that 1st,2nd,and third, and if its not then what do you do to make it right?
Yes, the stock boost pattern is 10-8-10 (and depending on the mods of the car, the boost may trail back down to 8 until redline or hold 10 PSI to redline... completely stock cars will not hold 10 PSI to redline).

If you have boost problems, here's a good troubleshooting site:

http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-...leshooting.htm
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Old Feb 6, 2004 | 03:14 PM
  #50  
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Originally posted by mazda v
wow that miata thermo is very interesting.. thanks for all the help i think i dont have any more questions..ill let you guys know when i hit that 11 sec..for a starter...for now im going to get a turbo kit, ast, intercooler,intake,petit m2 ecu, all new vac lines... thanks for the help peoples
You plan to do this with 4K??
Turbo kit with just a reprogammed ecu (Pettit or M2, not Pettit M2) and no fuel upgrade?
Let's see: (let's assume you have done all the reliability mods)
Intercooler (cheap one) 800.00
Intake (cheap one) 200.00
AEM or PFC 1200.00
Turbo kit (cheap one) 2400.00
Fuel pump (cheap one) 150.00
Fuel rail with injectors 650.00
Wide band dyno tuning 200.00
Labor ????.??

Pushing your car across the finish line, PRICELESS.
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