FDcoscos

my clutch has been sticking to the floor. no pressure what so ever. so i inspect the slave and off course its bad. i replace that, the clutch master, and the clutch line with the ss clutch line from corksport. my question is, how many times do i need to bleed the system? i already did it about 10 times and im getting nothing.

FDcoscos

thanks in advance for any advice fellas

tafkamb2

Mine was tricky I had to loosen the bleeder valve then tighten it by hand till it was semi tight, then bleed it a couple of times and it will come out nicely. I also used one of those one man bleeders which works great.

FDcoscos

this is what my new master cylinder looks like is that normal

blue94FD

iTrader: (1)

no the whole snap ring is supposed to be in the groove.

FDcoscos

what should i do in this case. just try to pop it back up or am i going to have to rebuild this thing already?

HawaiianRedMako

If that master clutch cylinder came that way, it may be defective. The snap ring supposed to be flush with the outer ring groove, not bent.

It is pushing the piston partly forward and probably leaking into the drivers compartment under the clutch pedal?

I would internally inspect it and either ask for a new replacement or rebuild it yourself. I ordered the rebuild kits from Ray Malloy Mazda and did both last month. Kit cost less than $24 each.

Well you could try to replace that one with the old snap ring and see if that works. Be sure to fill the master cylinder with DOT 4 brake fluid first before installing.

I usually pump the piston until the fluid starts coming out from the intake line above, then install it. I bleed about two fluid oz, have someone help push the clutch pedal and hold it down until you tighten the bleed nipple. Repeat until the clutch feels tight or two onces is bled.

I use a transparent plastic hose with a empty pint sized bottle.

FDcoscos

thanks for the post.

i popped the pin back out fairly easy actually. it didn't originally come like that i guess what had happened is that when i was putting in the master the clutch pedal line thing wasn't centered and pushed against the pin. my mistake. but still me and my cousin have bleed that clutch about 20 times and im still not getting and pressure what so ever. at first i could tell there was a lot of air in the system brcause i could hear it. but now its just a smooth stream coming out of the slave. could my clutch need replacing as well.

I will try using the other method as well HawaiianRedMako thanks

1souped7

You should look inside the service hole and find out if your throwout bearing is still attached. It might have gone bad.

FDcoscos

Ok i just received my motive power bleeder and man am i happy i bought this. me and my cousin bled the clutch about 30 times the old fashion way and pressure was barely being built. hardly any at all. Once i got the power bleeder i hooked it up, made sure there weren't any leaks, pumped it up to about 20 pounds and opened up the slave valve. all the air was pumped out on the first try. this thing was a one hit wonder. all the pressure in the clutch is back now. i can finally start enjoying my car again.

FDcoscos

this power bleeder was kinda expensive too so if anyone local needs to use it let me know.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, bleeding a dry clutch hydraulic takes time if you're pumping the pedal. I used a vacuum pump to get mine started. Since then I bought a power bleeder. Power bleeder is great except when you have to keep removing it to top off the reservoir.

Dave

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Do you have the Motive one? If so, you fill the container about half with whatever brake fluid you are using to keep the reservoir from going dry.

"Here's how it works: A tank containing hydraulic fluid is connected to the fluid reservoir on your vehicle and pressurized with air from a hand pump (our precision pressure gauge ensures that the hydraulic system is not damaged due to excessive pressure). When one of the bleed valves on the vehicle is opened, old hydraulic fluid is expelled as new fluid from the tank is forced into the system."

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Well, maybe it would pay if I had read the instructions better!! I just now looked and I had never noticed that thin line that runs all the way to the bottom of the tank. Thanks for the tip.

Now here's a question - wouldn't that leave the brake fluid reservoir filled about the Max line? And make for a mess when I disconnect it? I suppose that could be as simple as tilting the pump container to get the feed line out of the fluid once I get close to finished.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Yes, it can make a mess! The trick is getting the pressure released without the fluid going everywhere. I typically unscrew the top of the Power Bleeder to release the pressure that way rather than on the reservoir. This seems to help minimize the mess.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Well I always have the garden hose out when I'm doing brake fluid stuff anyway.

I'm optimistic though that tipping the pressure container so the feed hose stays out of the remaining fluid will work to allow the last bleed to draw the fluid level down to the reservoir "max" mark.

Dave