how to get ready for a 1,000 mile drive?
#1
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how to get ready for a 1,000 mile drive?
may be a stupid question but: i am purchasing a 93 rx with 80k, have not seen but guy assures me everything is okay. i'm flying to get it and driving home about 1,000 miles. is there anything special i should do before taking the trip home? i planned to have the oil changed as soon as i get the car with synthetic, any certain kind or weight or is it all the same? probably be a good idea to have it checked by a mechanic also? any special things to look for? only reason i ask because i realize these cars are not like any other car. i'll be sure to keep postin when i get her back here. thanks
#2
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I'd buy a set of belts before I even left..
Obviously check oil, water, brake fluid, tyres, lights, battery - the obvious... Have a REAL good look around under the hood for loose vacuum lines, wires etc... In fact, why not have a mechanic look it over locally before you even BUY the thing, and have him report on any maintenance which needs to be done?
Synthetics aren't generally recommended for Rotaries (This should start a war!)
Cheers,
Dave
Obviously check oil, water, brake fluid, tyres, lights, battery - the obvious... Have a REAL good look around under the hood for loose vacuum lines, wires etc... In fact, why not have a mechanic look it over locally before you even BUY the thing, and have him report on any maintenance which needs to be done?
Synthetics aren't generally recommended for Rotaries (This should start a war!)
Cheers,
Dave
#4
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Buy some Octane boost. It may foul the spark plugs but but it is better than the alternative "DETONATION Cause when you fill your car up at some backwoods gas station with 80 octaine it may prevent detonation from occuring. I may be a bit bitter on the situation as exactly that happened to me.
#7
Speed Mach Go Go Go
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CHiP's in the rear view mirror
If you've ever seen the Toyota Celica commercial when the cop tries to pull over a parked Celica for speeding...well the RX-7 will look like it speeding to a CHP even if it's not. Use the cruise all the way.
Rear bushings/bearings only last 80,000 mi. To test drive 5mi/hr and pump brakes, go/stop...etc. You will hear clunking noises from the rear.
Just cause he assures you there is nothing wrong doesn't meen he even knows anything about the car.
If the smog pump dies on the trip, the pully won't turn and the belt will burn off from friction. If you can take the belt off, check how easly the pully spins. Otherwise buy some belts (reg & smaller size if you have to disconnect air pump)
Pre-cat and regular cat will need replacing and most likely before your smog test.
Check rear tires for tread. You want to have at least past lincolns hair using a penny, otherwise you can spin out on a turn on wet pavement.
When you zip in to the rest stop, give turbos 1 or 2 min to cool down b4 shutting off the engine.
Don't worry about synthetic, but do change oil b4 you leave and when you arrive. Buy enough oil to take with you. You will need 1 quart for every 2-4 tanks of gas'. Valvoline Race 50 or Castrol 20-50 is good. If you still want sythetic Mobil 1, Red Line, Royal Purple.
Water temp should stay in the middle.
Oil pressure fluctates according to load/rpm but if the light turns on you need oil.
You may also want to buy a bottle of water wetter and a few bottles of water and spare fuses.
Check for leaks on Air Seperator Tank.
Look under the car at the rest stop and check for leaking fluids.
Rear bushings/bearings only last 80,000 mi. To test drive 5mi/hr and pump brakes, go/stop...etc. You will hear clunking noises from the rear.
Just cause he assures you there is nothing wrong doesn't meen he even knows anything about the car.
If the smog pump dies on the trip, the pully won't turn and the belt will burn off from friction. If you can take the belt off, check how easly the pully spins. Otherwise buy some belts (reg & smaller size if you have to disconnect air pump)
Pre-cat and regular cat will need replacing and most likely before your smog test.
Check rear tires for tread. You want to have at least past lincolns hair using a penny, otherwise you can spin out on a turn on wet pavement.
When you zip in to the rest stop, give turbos 1 or 2 min to cool down b4 shutting off the engine.
Don't worry about synthetic, but do change oil b4 you leave and when you arrive. Buy enough oil to take with you. You will need 1 quart for every 2-4 tanks of gas'. Valvoline Race 50 or Castrol 20-50 is good. If you still want sythetic Mobil 1, Red Line, Royal Purple.
Water temp should stay in the middle.
Oil pressure fluctates according to load/rpm but if the light turns on you need oil.
You may also want to buy a bottle of water wetter and a few bottles of water and spare fuses.
Check for leaks on Air Seperator Tank.
Look under the car at the rest stop and check for leaking fluids.
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#9
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>>i am purchasing a 93 rx with 80k, have not seen but guy assures me everything is okay.
Make sure you have a way to get home if the car turns out to be significantly less than what you are expecting. I remember reading more than one post a while back about people doing the same thing...but finding a bunch of problems with the car when they got home.
Good luck tho.
Make sure you have a way to get home if the car turns out to be significantly less than what you are expecting. I remember reading more than one post a while back about people doing the same thing...but finding a bunch of problems with the car when they got home.
Good luck tho.
#10
Funny you should post this topic, sounds a lot like me about 6 months ago when I went to get my car! I flew to get the car with an air filter and an oil filter just to be sure. There is one thing that will definitely kick your *** if you are not **** about it - make absolutely certain you get that stock AST off of there before you drive it on the trip. This is a disaster waiting to happen. Luckily I was only 3 hours away from home when I stopped to rest for awhile, and mine popped during heatsoak. I was essentially stranded because no dealers stocked them, and the aftermarket shops were nowhere near where I was or even open on the weekend. Check with the previous owner to see what has been done about the AST. Check the cooling system in general to be sure it will hold up under the stress. Also, if this is your first FD, be absolutely certain you do not work it hard on the trip, (possibly with problems yet to be discovered) and make sure you let it idle for a good while after you park - ask the racers on this, I think they usually leave the hood open as well.
Jon
'93 MB Touring
'85 GSL-SE
Jon
'93 MB Touring
'85 GSL-SE
#11
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Man bad idea!!! Definatley dont do it, I got burned so bad buying an RX-7 that I thought was in good condition.... But I didn't know all the little things to look for. Have a mechanic go through the car SERIOUSLY! I'm talking SERIOUSLY before buying it. You can save yourself alot of cash that way... How much is he asking for the car?
#13
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Have the compression checked as a bare minimum before you leave - if it doesn't have good compression, figure a new engine into the price of the car (and be hesitant about driving it 1,000 mi).
That said, a long highway journey isn't the most stressful thing you can do to an engine. As a matter of fact, it shouldn't have too much problem at all as long as you don't run into any sort of leaks. The one thing that the old rotaries (US models) have problems with on long trips is lubrication of the apex seals. Long trips are one of the few times when you should really think about pre-mixing oil in your gas. Get a few bottles of Protek-R from Pettit Racing (or somewhere else) & mix with each tank. This gives you extra insurance for your long trip & makes up for the slacker OMP.
Contrary to popular belief, the rotary isn't an incredibly unreliable engine when it isn't generating boost - which is the case when you're on the highway.
.. and, like everyone else has said, let the turbos cool down for a minute or so when you're stopping to get gas. Do this by letting the car idle (preferably with the parking lights on to load the electrical system & turn the radiator fans on) for a minute when you pull to the pump - before pumping gas.
oh, and, you may want to flush your cooling system while you're getting the oil changed... If your coolant light comes on or the temp gauge goes at all above half way, pull over immediatly and let it cool down (which could take a while).
Have fun! Don't get a ticket.
That said, a long highway journey isn't the most stressful thing you can do to an engine. As a matter of fact, it shouldn't have too much problem at all as long as you don't run into any sort of leaks. The one thing that the old rotaries (US models) have problems with on long trips is lubrication of the apex seals. Long trips are one of the few times when you should really think about pre-mixing oil in your gas. Get a few bottles of Protek-R from Pettit Racing (or somewhere else) & mix with each tank. This gives you extra insurance for your long trip & makes up for the slacker OMP.
Contrary to popular belief, the rotary isn't an incredibly unreliable engine when it isn't generating boost - which is the case when you're on the highway.
.. and, like everyone else has said, let the turbos cool down for a minute or so when you're stopping to get gas. Do this by letting the car idle (preferably with the parking lights on to load the electrical system & turn the radiator fans on) for a minute when you pull to the pump - before pumping gas.
oh, and, you may want to flush your cooling system while you're getting the oil changed... If your coolant light comes on or the temp gauge goes at all above half way, pull over immediatly and let it cool down (which could take a while).
Have fun! Don't get a ticket.
#14
Do a carfax and check all papers (match seller's license with pink slip). Bring some oil, water, hose tape, jumper cables. Have it checked out by a rotary specialist before buying it. Make sure you take it easy bc you'll be surprised how it can loose traction in wet. Good luck and have a fun trip. Oh, don't buy the car if it has a problem that can't be fixed within your budget.
#15
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Originally posted by supercell
Funny you should post this topic, sounds a lot like me about 6 months ago when I went to get my car! I flew to get the car with an air filter and an oil filter just to be sure. There is one thing that will definitely kick your *** if you are not **** about it - make absolutely certain you get that stock AST off of there before you drive it on the trip. This is a disaster waiting to happen. Luckily I was only 3 hours away from home when I stopped to rest for awhile, and mine popped during heatsoak. I was essentially stranded because no dealers stocked them, and the aftermarket shops were nowhere near where I was or even open on the weekend. Check with the previous owner to see what has been done about the AST. Check the cooling system in general to be sure it will hold up under the stress. Also, if this is your first FD, be absolutely certain you do not work it hard on the trip, (possibly with problems yet to be discovered) and make sure you let it idle for a good while after you park - ask the racers on this, I think they usually leave the hood open as well.
Jon
'93 MB Touring
'85 GSL-SE
Funny you should post this topic, sounds a lot like me about 6 months ago when I went to get my car! I flew to get the car with an air filter and an oil filter just to be sure. There is one thing that will definitely kick your *** if you are not **** about it - make absolutely certain you get that stock AST off of there before you drive it on the trip. This is a disaster waiting to happen. Luckily I was only 3 hours away from home when I stopped to rest for awhile, and mine popped during heatsoak. I was essentially stranded because no dealers stocked them, and the aftermarket shops were nowhere near where I was or even open on the weekend. Check with the previous owner to see what has been done about the AST. Check the cooling system in general to be sure it will hold up under the stress. Also, if this is your first FD, be absolutely certain you do not work it hard on the trip, (possibly with problems yet to be discovered) and make sure you let it idle for a good while after you park - ask the racers on this, I think they usually leave the hood open as well.
Jon
'93 MB Touring
'85 GSL-SE
#17
It seems like you need some more info on rx7's. Get the car and before "testing" it make sure you soak up as much information from this forum as possible. My knowledge as little as it is has quadrippled just from becoming a member. I stll don't know how to do a rebuild by myself but I do know how to take care of my car really good. So have Fun in one of the best sports cars ever built and just set a few days to the side just browsing through this forum!
#18
LOL, this is me in 2 days...driving a FD from Orlando to DFW. got my cds, gonna buy a lot of crap for the trunk(I'lll just buy that in FL instead of trying to take it on the plane....anyway, jaydogg, what trip do you have to make? also, anyone gonna be along the route home? always cool to meet other forum members in person. Most of you seem to be in cali, up north, or not in the US...what about you, RedR1?
#19
I Sold My Car 2 the Devil
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I always bring a small bottle of water... Some sort of granola bars... octane booster 1 for every 300 mi. to be traveled. Also I would bring the usual but also include a flashlight and some vacuum hose to match the ones under your upper manifold. Change the plugs, radiator fuild, oil 10w 40 if its cold where you are and 20w 50 if its not.... I'd also suggest getting some of our #'s incase something bad does happen...hey ya never know...
Ryker
Ryker
#22
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1 install trailer hitch on rear of fd
2 buy trailer
3 buy large toolbox, tools and portable lift..be sure to get clutch alignment tool and other oddities necessary for on site work.
4 buy 1 motor..one set of turbos...belts...tranny...tires...hoses...zip ties...coolant...sensors...solonoids...extra harness...clutch set...extra motor mount...radiator...ast..oil PUT THESE PARTS IN TRAILER
5 load friend and packed suitcases and pillows
6 rub prayer beads and buddahs stomach
7 start car...be careful not to tear your rear end clear off as you pull the now fully loaded trailer out of the driveway.
8 get gas..oil change
j
PS..dont forget mechanics coveralls and gloves...a set of handwipes and soap/water would be great too...flashlight...gosh..the list is long.
hahahaha....
2 buy trailer
3 buy large toolbox, tools and portable lift..be sure to get clutch alignment tool and other oddities necessary for on site work.
4 buy 1 motor..one set of turbos...belts...tranny...tires...hoses...zip ties...coolant...sensors...solonoids...extra harness...clutch set...extra motor mount...radiator...ast..oil PUT THESE PARTS IN TRAILER
5 load friend and packed suitcases and pillows
6 rub prayer beads and buddahs stomach
7 start car...be careful not to tear your rear end clear off as you pull the now fully loaded trailer out of the driveway.
8 get gas..oil change
j
PS..dont forget mechanics coveralls and gloves...a set of handwipes and soap/water would be great too...flashlight...gosh..the list is long.
hahahaha....
#23
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Bought my FD from a dealer in Pensacola and drove it a good thousand miles up to Indiana. Only thing wrong with it was a loose passenger side handle which was fixed with a quick ratchet. If nothing else, go to Walmart and buy one of their $15 do-it-all mechanics' tool sets, and even if the ratchet breaks after the first bolt, you'll still have the other useful things. Fix-a-Flat is great stuff too.
#25
you might want to look around some more where u from? you might find one closer and if you don't know much about the car on the ride home you could have problems. how much you spending thats a big factor has it had a rebuild?theres tons of stuff to take into consideration before flyin out there.
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