Dave, you can unbolt the thermostats to drain the coolers with them in the car. In this pic it's the silver "bolt" on the side. Hope that helps.



..dave

 

If you want to go through all that trouble, than I say GREAT and more power to you!!
But the only time I consider it necessary to "go this far" is when you loose a bearing or have excessive wear on any oil contacting surface in the engine. But your oil can never be to clean sooo.....
-J

 

Thanks, Dave.

I looked at that bolt thinking that, and came >< this close to doing it. My reluctance was the chance that maybe there is a seal in there that won't go back together properly, similar to the halves of a brake caliper. If I can drain the coolers I'll feel a lot better about it.

I may also try to force some air down the oil filter pedestal to see if that forces more oil into the oil pan. If that works, I'll probably use it for routine oil changes too.

I'll let everyone know how it goes, sometime around the end of the year. Aw heck, I'll just drive the car a lot more in the name of science . I don't think this idea is necessary, rather I'm just really curious what works best.

Dave

 

if you're going to that trouble you may want to add the 2nd oil cooler

 

The entire contents of the oil pan doesn't drain if the car sits level through the drain plug. We always drain the oil as one of the first things in preparing to pull a motor and there is always a good 1/4-1/2 qt remaining in the pan once it is dropped from the motor. I suppose you could jack the car up unevenly so it tilts toward the drain plug.

 

I have the dual coolers.

Dave

 

The rotors also hold some oil.

 

are you allowed to manually crank the engine or remove the oil pan??

as in would it help to rotate the assembly ?

 

I am very interested in how this turns out. I just roasted a bearing on my engine using dino oil 10w-30 (Castrol) because of this colder weather I was using thinner oil and just read the oil thread RIGHT before I went to the store and killed my engine.

 

If you have the proper amount of 10w30 oil in the motor and you don't have an insane amount of miles on it, that will not lead to a spun bearing, unless you were, say, roadracing the car on a hot day or something to that effect. Bearings just don't spin, although if they're higher mileage ones they're more prone to.

P.S. My bet is it's the front stationary gear bearing.

 

That is SO bad for the car..>.>.. dont do it. its so bad for the engine to rotate without oil.

 

when u first install a rebuilt engine, theres no oil in it. you have to prime it. same thing here. its not gonna suck out every ounce but its gonna get a lil bt more out.

 

I would think that getting the engine hot and thinning out the oil before drain would help. Why drain engine oil when it is cold and thick?

Next time you drain the oil get the car hot and drain at the coolers then the pan. When draining from the pan tilot the car so that most of the oil runs to the plug so that you get most of the oil out of th pan.

Naturaly the oil is going to want to drain to the pan or the lowest point. When the oil is hot, this makes it a lot easyer for the oil to travel to the lowest point. I don,t think you will be able to get all the oil out without doing a tear down.

I have removed v10s with a simi dry sump and was only able to remove about 95% of the oil.

 

Don't forget about the turbo lines as well.