I should be picking up a stock 1993 touring sometime in the next week. The only mod to the car is a performance clutch. Other than that, stock (57k miles).

Now, I'm working on a budget, but I want to ensure reliabiliity, especially on the heat protection front, since I live near Phoenix where it's hot as hell (112 today). As well, I want to do most of the work myself, so I'm trying to use parts that replace the original without a lot of modifications.

The car will be a daily driver and it will not be pushed hard often (and certainly not during the afternoon heat).

I'm going to use Redline products for all fluids except for the transmission, which will get NEO 75W-90HD.

So, here's what I was thinking:
1. Apexi Power Intake
2. SR Motorsports Replacement IC
3. Koyo Radiator.
4. Turbo timer.
5. Boost Gauge, EGT gague.
6. Downpipe (with EGT gague sensor mount)

Eventually I will do a front air dam, side skirts, and a wing, and at that point I would probably purchase a vented hood and a headlight vent to aid with cooling.

My questions:
1. Do you see any problem with those components and fitting them in without major modifications?
2. With those mods, would I need a boost controller and/or upgraded ECU (if so, which, and why)?
3. What's the safest order (I figure radiator and IC first, then open up the air flow)?
4. Should I do anything with the fuel system (besides changing the filter)?

Thanks,
Jason

 

First mod.....Good water temp gauge or PFC w/ commander for water temp readout. Then Turbo timer, Radiator, Boost gauge, a/f gauge, Intake and DP, ECU, CB, IC, and EGT. In that order, IMO.

 

My order:

1. boost and water temp gauges

2. downpipe to reduce underhood temps (forget the EGT, a downpipe mounted EGT will not respond quickly or accuratly enough)

3. fluidyne radiator (easier install than koyo and more room for SMIC)

4. cold air intake (M2, Rx7fashion, DIY), the Pettit, HKS, Apexi, etc style can suck hot engine air at low speeds -- made worse in your environment, also Apexi restricts SMIC upgrades due to layout

5. you MIGHT need an ecu with intake, downpipe, and SMIC, but probably not. The key is to keep boost levels close to stock. If you are boosting over 11 psi at higher rpm, then you need a boost controller or aftermarket ecu.

6. IMO, a turbo timer is a waste of money and can be dangerous. The LAST thing you want to do with your FD on 110+ days is let is sit idling for several minutes, especially with a hot-air intake.

good luck with your new FD!

 

If you are wondering about what its going to sound like, its gonna sound pretty good.

With a performance clutch your exhaust will be real loud at the transition. Now if you have racing MTF fluid and gauges, man you better get ear plugs, cause your car is gonna be so loud and so fast too.

I wouldn't mix a performance clutch and an intake system, you won't have enough fuel and you could detonate. Those clutches tend to need 106 octane and an upgraded fuel pump.

Good Luck...and be careful with those mods!!!

 

777rx777: I hope to God you are joking. If you are, you really should put a or . If you are not joking, you need to spend some SERIOUS time learning about cars in general....

 

No doubt ... i seriously hope he's joking!

 

I would add an ECU in your mod items.

 

I agree with these guys re: the water temp gauge. You need one, esp. in a climate like arizona or texas. You can pick up a Greddy EL 60mm water temp gauge with peak/hold and warning function (2 good functions to have) for around $150 bucks. I'd put it at the top of your list--the motor you save may be your own

 

COME ON...

DOESN"T ANYONE HAVE SCENSE OF HUMOR?

OF COURSE I WAS JOKING WITH THAT LAST POST!!!

 

mods in order
Vacum hose replacement/boost gauge
Alluminum AST
Downpipe/temp guage
Intake(K&Ns' are fine)/Catback
Intercooler/ECU upgrade or piggyback
I suppose you should do the radiator somewhere in there as well.
Take it from there any direction you like.....

 

777, scared me for a sec.
I agree w/ everyone, guages first.
Also consider replacing or removing your AST. They are known to leak or blow, mine leaked for 9 months, no real problems except constant coolant smell. Pettit Racing has an all metal AST as do a couple of others. M2 has a bypass kit.
Also, in that heat, I'd also recommend the vacuum line replacement asap. Get a known shop to do it, I tried, failed, and had to have my car towed to Peter Farrel Supercars w/my tail between my legs.
BTW, not a small budget huh?
Much luck to you!

 

Uh vacum lines are pretty easy. You should be able to pull it off. If you don't want to and you are near Wash. DC. Then I'll do it for you .
fd3boost@comcast.net