how do i replace my cross threaded stud???
02-03-04, 04:08 PM
#1
screwed by chad hall
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how do i replace my cross threaded stud???
well guys i have a cross threaded stud on the back right rear and i got started on replacing it today...so i removed my brake caliper and now the rotor is all thats left to remove i just dont know how to get it off so any of you guys that have done this yourself already please tell me what to do next thanks and peace out...oh yeah heres a pic of my current progress
02-03-04, 04:11 PM
#2
No it's not Turbo'd
See the hole in the rotor ?? Put a bolt in there that fits, and the rotor will just "Pop" off....
The hole just to the left of the stripped stud....
This will push against the hub and free the disk
The hole just to the left of the stripped stud....
This will push against the hub and free the disk
02-03-04, 04:15 PM
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screwed by chad hall
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hmm alright i will gimp my way back out to the garage since i am doing all this with my ripped ligiment ankle no driving her for a month so this is why i started all this little bs tideous work on her haha well thanks i will reply back to let you know if that worked brb
02-03-04, 04:23 PM
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haha yeah my bad...well i just tried what you told me to do DCrosby and no luck are you sure i dont have to remove that big nut in the center of the rotor well let me know
02-03-04, 04:39 PM
#7
No it's not Turbo'd
You found a bolt that fits in the hole next to the rounded stud !? And started tightening it !?? and Nothing ??? I can hardly belive it, use some WD 40 on the rotor... where it connects with the hub... but that usually works better than a welding torch to heat the disk... ??? WTF... make sure the bolt fits well and tightens... maybe use a breaker bar on the bolt you're putting into the disk....
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02-03-04, 04:42 PM
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alright i will go and tighten it i thought you just wanted me to put a screw in and put weight on it to make it pop off alright i will let you know how that goes brb
02-03-04, 04:46 PM
#12
No it's not Turbo'd
He's trying to remove the brake rotor first after that yes he'll have to remove that big nut, but first things first....
Last edited by DCrosby; 02-03-04 at 05:00 PM.
02-03-04, 05:05 PM
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the big bolt is for the axle, seriously, you guys are making this harder than it really is. If you wanna remove the rotor(which I really dont believe you have to) take a rubber mallet and tap on the back of the rotor. That thing should pop right off. If you dont want to, take a hammer and beat that damn stud out. thats how I removed mine.
02-03-04, 05:26 PM
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ok i got the rotor off with the screw thing you told me to do...now i cant get the stud out i mean i beat the stud out and its out and loose now but it doesnt have enough room to fully pull itself out from the axle so what do i do now?
02-03-04, 05:28 PM
#17
Lots of crappy info in this thread.
Dcrosby is right. Thread a bolt into that extra hole. As you tighen the bolt the rotor will come off. YOU DO NOT need to hit the rotor with a hammer! Bad idea!
As for the stud, you need to pull the hub off. You will take the huge nut off, then get a slide hammer and pull out the hub. Once its out, its simple to put a new stud in.
Dcrosby is right. Thread a bolt into that extra hole. As you tighen the bolt the rotor will come off. YOU DO NOT need to hit the rotor with a hammer! Bad idea!
As for the stud, you need to pull the hub off. You will take the huge nut off, then get a slide hammer and pull out the hub. Once its out, its simple to put a new stud in.
02-03-04, 07:24 PM
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I use a 36 socket It works fine. A Slidehammer is a tool used to remove pressed on or clearence type fittings.( front hubs) However, all the ones I work on can be removed with just my hands. Give it a try. And use air impact to get that nut off it will save you frustration.The36mm is a little sloppy on the nut.( Can i say sloppy on the nut?
)Hope that helps
)Hope that helps
Last edited by BigIslandSevens; 02-03-04 at 07:32 PM.
02-03-04, 07:43 PM
#21
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haha alright then i will hopefully find something less sloppy i dont use air guns because i dont have the money i use a 3 ft custom made wrench extension that i made myself out of an old stilt and it applies more torque than an air gun could ever apply....it works for everything too bad it doesnt fit in places other that 3 ft big haha
02-03-04, 08:04 PM
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Originally posted by rfreeman27
Lots of crappy info in this thread.
Dcrosby is right. Thread a bolt into that extra hole. As you tighen the bolt the rotor will come off. YOU DO NOT need to hit the rotor with a hammer! Bad idea!
As for the stud, you need to pull the hub off. You will take the huge nut off, then get a slide hammer and pull out the hub. Once its out, its simple to put a new stud in.
Lots of crappy info in this thread.
Dcrosby is right. Thread a bolt into that extra hole. As you tighen the bolt the rotor will come off. YOU DO NOT need to hit the rotor with a hammer! Bad idea!
As for the stud, you need to pull the hub off. You will take the huge nut off, then get a slide hammer and pull out the hub. Once its out, its simple to put a new stud in.
Thread a bolt into the hole as directed or use a crow bar like I recommended in another thread.
Oh and someone already had the same problem as you and post a nice write up on how to fix it. Search in the suspension/brakes section.
02-03-04, 08:15 PM
#23
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I dont' think the rotor needs to come off.
The bolt is on the spindal and should be able to just pound it out (put a nut on it first).
i broke 2 of them at once on a 240sx. Thought i was going to have to replace the whole spindal but only cost like 6 bucks and an hour (most of the time try'n to figure out how to fix it).
they are held in by the lug nuts so arn't threaded........
The bolt is on the spindal and should be able to just pound it out (put a nut on it first).
i broke 2 of them at once on a 240sx. Thought i was going to have to replace the whole spindal but only cost like 6 bucks and an hour (most of the time try'n to figure out how to fix it).
they are held in by the lug nuts so arn't threaded........