I'm going to do the vac hose replacement this weekend and was wondering how can I check all of the soleniods that are located under the intake? The problem I have is after 4500rpms I only get 0.2 bars of boost I check the fualt codes and the only ones I get are for the to I took off when I installed the AVC-R. Any help would be useful thanks.

 

I have had this problem b4 too. Have you ever had a problem with the boost fluctuating rapidly above 4500. I get this when the underhood temps get high. I never see any problems when the car is not that hot. Also do you have problems with loss of boost in 1st gear at transition. Just wondering b/c I am trying to diagnose mine as we speak.

Thanks.

 

No haven't had any boost fluctuation and no loss in first, but know that you say it it may have been be cuase the under hood temp was high was I was driving through town for over an hour at 25 or less so I may put ever thing back together (only apex intake and strut bar thank god) and see what happens.

 

Well I have my IM off right now. I have about 3 seperate boost problems but I am thinking that they are all somehow related. I have the 1st gear issue I was talking about and found some info someone posted showing their diagnosis and found that the TC solenoid (vacuum) was going bad at high temps. Not sure if this is the cause of the other problems including the one you are seeing. I am testing it this weekend and if bad replacing. I will let you know of the results. BTW, what mods do you have?

 

Shop manual. Easy to do, takes a little time with a vacuum tester and 12V battery, but a MUST to do this job properly. I also froze mine in individual baggies (so that condensation would not be an issue) and then tested them again frozen just for the hell of it. Overkill and ****? - yeah, probably, but you MUST do this job properly the first time or you'll commit suicide. Don't forget to check all your valves (2 way and 1 way) as well as described in the manual.
Good luck - this is a hellish job and NO one attempting it for the first time can do it properly in under a WEEK.

 

As for mods go all I have is Apexi Power Intake, Apexi GT Spec exhuast, Apexi Bov Apexi AVC-R. Where do you have your pressure sensor located. mine is on the drivers side to the right of the power brake booster. I thought it would be away from the heat there but I could be wrong thought about move it some where towards the front of the car.

And I hope to finish this job in a couple days but we'll see I've done vac jobs on eclispses and 3000gts but they're nothing compared to this mess.

 

I have the pressure sensor up by the ABS unit on the passenger side. I have the solenoid in the very front on a frame rail underneath my intake. Where do you have your solenoid mounted? I believe that that one is the really important one in terms of being away from heat. I have talked to many people that have the AVC-r set like mine (in terms of placement of parts under the hood) and all of theirs work fine so I don't think that my boost problems are related to the AVC-r but I could be wrong.

 

My soleniod in the same place don't think it has anyhing to do with the boost controller either just a thought I had. I put the stuff back on tomorrow after work and see what happens and disassemble it afterwards and change the hoses and test the soleniods.

 

I also have he same problems that you have mentioned above. And I ordered new vaccum hose kit for my car. Now how do I exactly test all the check valves and anything electrical that needs to be tested that control the turbos? Also would the RR site be a good guide to helping me with changing the vaccum lines and checking everything?

 

IF anyone breaks a solenoid, I picked up some used ones that I will let go of for $15 each plus shipping.
I tested all of them, and they work fine. I don't have any T/C solenoids, just the standard.
If you want to test a solenoid, just connect 12 volts DC to it. As for my bad T/C solenoid, it tested fine at room temp, but when I ran it under hot water (The units are 100% sealed) it failed. As it cooled, it cam back to life. I replaced my T/C (vacuum side) and I now have 2nd turbo boost past 4500 RPM.

 

ttt

 

i read the link on the first page. what is the deal with it taking a week for me to check the solenoids. also, which solenoids are we talking about. im thinking of the wastegate looking things, are these the same parts. sorry, after tonight i am pissed. this **** face in a celica thought he was hot **** against me. i want turbo number two back.
kris

 

oops it was the post that i made that had a link. let me give that to you guys. it may be helpful.
http://home.istar.ca/~dvandit/Turbo...eshooting.shtml
i hope that can help us out.
kris

 

This is what I am hoping for. I tested my TC solenoid this weekend and it was fine at room temp. I then put in the oven to heat it up and it wouldn't work and went open circuit on the multimeter. There is a write-up that describes this procedure. I ordered another from someone that claims theirs has 19K miles. Hopefully that fixes all of my 2nd turbo issues that I have been having. I wonder when these solenoids start having this weird thing happen to them (what mileage)?

BTW, spooledup7, were you having 2nd turbo problems in gears other than first. I was having loss of boost at high rpm in 1st gear and then I was getting some weird boost fluttering in other gears. Just trying to figure out if changing this solenoid will maybe kill all my birds with one stone.

 

Ok check all of the soleniods hot and cold and none of them were bad. Any other suggestions? I kind of clueless now on what could be the problem. Kinda fustrating.

 

I forgot to ask, CRASH, but does this problem happen in every gear right at transition or does it happen ever so often? I was getting .2 bar sometimes but it only seemed to happen when I shocked the accelerator (e.g. on a shift, going from full throttle to no throttle back to full throttle very quickly). I would be getting really good boost in say 2nd or 3rd gear and then I would shift and then get like .2 bar all the way to redline and then shift again and get good boost again. Is this similar to your problem?

 

Sorry another stupid question. But how do you check your one way and two way check values? Do you blow into them and see if it works???? And also should I be hearing a clicking sound when I hook 12v DC on the solenoids?

 

No it happened in all of the gears. Still not sure why. I'm going to try to finidh putting it back together today see what happens.?