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hot starting problems ITS NOT COMPRESSION

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Old 10-03-10, 05:26 PM
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hot starting problems ITS NOT COMPRESSION

my fd cranks up good when cold but if i let it sit there for a while after i drive it and go to crank it back up it takes along time to get it to firer back up. ITS NOT COMPRESSION ive check that 3 times i have 94 in the back and 96 in the front. its a 93 fd


things i have replaced and checked.

new spark plugs
air themo.
checked grounds
o2 sensor
fuses
water themo.
new battery
check voltage
vaccum line job


any ideas would greatly be appreciated

thanks,
brian
Old 10-03-10, 05:36 PM
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Have you recently removed the engine harness? I reversed the coolant temp and fuel temp plugs and it had the same problem.
Old 10-03-10, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by linnadawg
Have you recently removed the engine harness? I reversed the coolant temp and fuel temp plugs and it had the same problem.
na i havent but i have took the coolant temp and oil wires of alot for random things i was doing to the car at times like cleaning the connections and ect.
Old 10-04-10, 01:54 PM
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Old 10-04-10, 02:10 PM
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compression #'s hot or cold?
fuel pressure
Old 10-04-10, 02:14 PM
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Have you used the FSM and worked through the troubleshooting steps of your symptoms?
Old 10-04-10, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by mad_7tist
compression #'s hot or cold?
fuel pressure
hot and i havent done the fuel pre. yet
Old 10-04-10, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Mahjik
Have you used the FSM and worked through the troubleshooting steps of your symptoms?
outside going through the fsm now
Old 10-04-10, 03:24 PM
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would a small exhaust leak near the turbos somewhere... would that effect the problem any?

had the exhaust leak since i bought the car.. so if that could be the problem, it took it awhile.
Old 10-04-10, 03:41 PM
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definitely check out the fuel pressure. A leaky injector would give you a same symptom =)

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Old 10-04-10, 04:00 PM
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Would a coolant seal going out give these symptoms?
Old 10-04-10, 04:02 PM
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i see the fuel lines underneath the intake elbow. which one would be the right one to test fuel press. with?
Old 10-04-10, 06:36 PM
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Lightbulb

Originally Posted by jmadams74
Would a coolant seal going out give these symptoms?
No.

Bad coolant seal symptoms usually includes :
lost of coolant that no where to be found.
Coolant buzzer comes on during start up, stays for a bit and then goes away after warming up for a bit.
White smoke during start up (alot indicates it's bad, but make sure it smells sweet. Some confused with condensation with bad coolant seal.)
White greasy, milky color material under cap when cold, but gone when hot.

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Old 10-04-10, 07:17 PM
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Like AzEKnightz said, leaky injectors can cause this problem. I had this problem in my FC.
Old 10-05-10, 04:28 PM
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When these things heat soak, they always cause alittle cranking during restart. Even if your engine is new.
Old 10-05-10, 04:35 PM
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pull the fuel pump fuse out and try to start it, if it start and shut off then you may have a injector leaking fuel.
Old 10-05-10, 05:35 PM
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how about a list of modifications
Old 10-05-10, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by AzEKnightz
No.

Bad coolant seal symptoms usually includes :
lost of coolant that no where to be found.
Coolant buzzer comes on during start up, stays for a bit and then goes away after warming up for a bit.
White smoke during start up (alot indicates it's bad, but make sure it smells sweet. Some confused with condensation with bad coolant seal.)
White greasy, milky color material under cap when cold, but gone when hot.

-AzEKnightz
not necessarily. coolant seal failure is not always the easiest to spot, especially when in the earlier stages where coolant loss is not that noticeable.

A real sure way to know is a coolant pressure test or a coolant "campagne bubbles" test. I would try both.

how many miles on the rebuild?
Old 10-05-10, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by MrNizzles
not necessarily. coolant seal failure is not always the easiest to spot, especially when in the earlier stages where coolant loss is not that noticeable.

A real sure way to know is a coolant pressure test or a coolant "campagne bubbles" test. I would try both.

how many miles on the rebuild?
I stated "usually", but does not mean it happens every time.

That's why I listed them out as possibilities.

-AzEKnightz
Old 10-05-10, 08:47 PM
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Exclamation

Originally Posted by FC3S1991
pull the fuel pump fuse out and try to start it, if it start and shut off then you may have a injector leaking fuel.
Negative, with residual fuel pressure and left over fuel in the fuel lines. You might be able to start it up and once the left over fuel are used up, the car will then shut off.

How would that prove you having leaking injectors?

-AzEKnightz
Old 10-06-10, 12:44 PM
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again....which fuel line out of the 4 i see, do i do the fuel pressure test on??
Old 10-06-10, 05:57 PM
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by BakaBakaBusu
again....which fuel line out of the 4 i see, do i do the fuel pressure test on??
Sorry for the delay response bakabakabusu,

on the driver side, when you look at the fuel line(s), the first one on the left near the oil dipstick is the fuel supply line. That's where you would want to tap your fuel pressure gauge into.

Here is a tutorial for doing so: CLICK ME

Hope this helps =)

-AzEKnightz
Old 10-09-10, 01:57 PM
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thanks alot guys for the tips im in the process of fixing a exhaust leak where the downpipe connects to the converter and when i took the converter out a biiiiiiiig chunk of lava rock can out it was completely cloged then when i get that fix im going to do the fuel pre. test and ill give you an up date
Old 10-09-10, 05:18 PM
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does your part of georgia have emissions testing or just a visual inspection? if they don't test emissions, just chuck the cat and get a resonated midpipe
Old 10-09-10, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by KKMpunkrock2011
does your part of georgia have emissions testing or just a visual inspection? if they don't test emissions, just chuck the cat and get a resonated midpipe
na the part of ga im from don't do the test for that kind of stuff if they did this whole town would be screwed lol


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