my fd cranks up good when cold but if i let it sit there for a while after i drive it and go to crank it back up it takes along time to get it to firer back up. ITS NOT COMPRESSION ive check that 3 times i have 94 in the back and 96 in the front. its a 93 fd


things i have replaced and checked.

new spark plugs
air themo.
checked grounds
o2 sensor
fuses
water themo.
new battery
check voltage
vaccum line job


any ideas would greatly be appreciated

thanks,
brian

 

Have you recently removed the engine harness? I reversed the coolant temp and fuel temp plugs and it had the same problem.

 

na i havent but i have took the coolant temp and oil wires of alot for random things i was doing to the car at times like cleaning the connections and ect.

 

bump

 

compression #'s hot or cold?
fuel pressure

 

Have you used the FSM and worked through the troubleshooting steps of your symptoms?

 

hot and i havent done the fuel pre. yet

 

outside going through the fsm now

 

would a small exhaust leak near the turbos somewhere... would that effect the problem any?

had the exhaust leak since i bought the car.. so if that could be the problem, it took it awhile.

 

definitely check out the fuel pressure. A leaky injector would give you a same symptom =)

-AzEKnightz

 

Would a coolant seal going out give these symptoms?

 

i see the fuel lines underneath the intake elbow. which one would be the right one to test fuel press. with?

 

No.

Bad coolant seal symptoms usually includes :
lost of coolant that no where to be found.
Coolant buzzer comes on during start up, stays for a bit and then goes away after warming up for a bit.
White smoke during start up (alot indicates it's bad, but make sure it smells sweet. Some confused with condensation with bad coolant seal.)
White greasy, milky color material under cap when cold, but gone when hot.

-AzEKnightz

 

Like AzEKnightz said, leaky injectors can cause this problem. I had this problem in my FC.

 

When these things heat soak, they always cause alittle cranking during restart. Even if your engine is new.

 

pull the fuel pump fuse out and try to start it, if it start and shut off then you may have a injector leaking fuel.

 

how about a list of modifications

 

not necessarily. coolant seal failure is not always the easiest to spot, especially when in the earlier stages where coolant loss is not that noticeable.

A real sure way to know is a coolant pressure test or a coolant "campagne bubbles" test. I would try both.

how many miles on the rebuild?

 

I stated "usually", but does not mean it happens every time.

That's why I listed them out as possibilities.

-AzEKnightz

 

Negative, with residual fuel pressure and left over fuel in the fuel lines. You might be able to start it up and once the left over fuel are used up, the car will then shut off.

How would that prove you having leaking injectors?

-AzEKnightz

 

again....which fuel line out of the 4 i see, do i do the fuel pressure test on??

 

Sorry for the delay response bakabakabusu,

on the driver side, when you look at the fuel line(s), the first one on the left near the oil dipstick is the fuel supply line. That's where you would want to tap your fuel pressure gauge into.

Here is a tutorial for doing so: CLICK ME

Hope this helps =)

-AzEKnightz

 

thanks alot guys for the tips im in the process of fixing a exhaust leak where the downpipe connects to the converter and when i took the converter out a biiiiiiiig chunk of lava rock can out it was completely cloged then when i get that fix im going to do the fuel pre. test and ill give you an up date

 

does your part of georgia have emissions testing or just a visual inspection? if they don't test emissions, just chuck the cat and get a resonated midpipe

 

na the part of ga im from don't do the test for that kind of stuff if they did this whole town would be screwed lol