Hose size for blocked line?
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Hose size for blocked line?
Hello!
I hope you guys have had a great holiday weekend. I recently imported this vehicle and now I'm doing a bunch of maintenance as it seems like the previous owner had it sitting for some time.
I'm wondering what the hose size is in the circle to replace the blocked path with the clamp as it's currently leaking. I've looked in the forum and couldn't find it the size. I also lost the post where a guy was talking about these nubs he bought and haven't had a problems since as a solution for potential line breakage such as in the picture. If anyone has the name for the product I'd appreciate it if not the tube size will work just fine.
Thanks!
I hope you guys have had a great holiday weekend. I recently imported this vehicle and now I'm doing a bunch of maintenance as it seems like the previous owner had it sitting for some time.
I'm wondering what the hose size is in the circle to replace the blocked path with the clamp as it's currently leaking. I've looked in the forum and couldn't find it the size. I also lost the post where a guy was talking about these nubs he bought and haven't had a problems since as a solution for potential line breakage such as in the picture. If anyone has the name for the product I'd appreciate it if not the tube size will work just fine.
Thanks!
#2
Rotary Freak
Not quite sure what's being proposed, unless a block off for a oil cool single? Anyhow, looks to be a turbo coolant line - judging by the original sheathed metering pump lines in the vicinity - that should be 10mm. A tip, make sure you use very good quality hose there if going 3/8" rather than OEM, and watch out for kinks!
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Not quite sure what's being proposed, unless a block off for a oil cool single? Anyhow, looks to be a turbo coolant line - judging by the original sheathed metering pump lines in the vicinity - that should be 10mm. A tip, make sure you use very good quality hose there if going 3/8" rather than OEM, and watch out for kinks!
Would 10mm be recommended in this case? That was the biggest up in the air from what I’ve found so far. Between 6.5 mm, 8mm and 10mm
#4
Rotary Freak
I personally don't like caps, prefer either drilling and tapping for a plug or a short length of hose with a turned plug to suit the ID of the hose, for anything that will potentially kill your engine if it fails. If you wanted to go that way though, chair tips should be available in 10mm at a local hardware.
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I personally don't like caps, prefer either drilling and tapping for a plug or a short length of hose with a turned plug to suit the ID of the hose, for anything that will potentially kill your engine if it fails. If you wanted to go that way though, chair tips should be available in 10mm at a local hardware.
thanks!
#6
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you can find a bolt, or other piece of metal the correct size you can cut it down an use it to plug a new piece of hose
#7
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j9fd3s (11-29-23)
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#9
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seems like it’s more so personal preference as long as quality materials are used. Is that about right?
#10
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j9fd3s (11-29-23)
#12
RX-7 Bad Ass
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You have a few options -
- Use the stock coolant hose, stick a proper metric size bolt in it, and clamp it in place. It's not pretty but it will work.
- Pull the water pump housing, remove the nipple (it's pressed/glued in, steel nipple in aluminum housing), then drill out and tap for a pipe NPT plug. Teflon tape and install.
Any rubber caps WILL fail on you. Most of them are designed for vacuum. That will see a lot of heat and pressure, even more so that it's close to the turbo.
Personally I'd take the time and pull the water pump housing to drill/tap/plug. If you can't do that now for whatever reason use the bolt shoved in the hose trick.
The Mazda OEM coolant hose can take the heat and pressure well. Lots of aftermarket hose can't.
Dale
- Use the stock coolant hose, stick a proper metric size bolt in it, and clamp it in place. It's not pretty but it will work.
- Pull the water pump housing, remove the nipple (it's pressed/glued in, steel nipple in aluminum housing), then drill out and tap for a pipe NPT plug. Teflon tape and install.
Any rubber caps WILL fail on you. Most of them are designed for vacuum. That will see a lot of heat and pressure, even more so that it's close to the turbo.
Personally I'd take the time and pull the water pump housing to drill/tap/plug. If you can't do that now for whatever reason use the bolt shoved in the hose trick.
The Mazda OEM coolant hose can take the heat and pressure well. Lots of aftermarket hose can't.
Dale
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