Which hose goes where ( Vacuume hose job)
03-23-03, 08:53 AM
#1
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Which hose goes where ( Vacuume hose job)
I am in the middle of the great vacuume hose replacement job and the wonderful color coded chart provided on the Scuderiaciriani web site has left me with one question.
On the last solenoid in the rear of the rats nest which hose connects to the riders side connection under the electrical plug?
1 the line connecting to the little barrel looking fitting on top of the block?
OR
2 the line connecting to the tube fitting running parallel to the length of the car closest to the intake manifold?
Sorry for the crappy descriptions but the best I could do.
On the last solenoid in the rear of the rats nest which hose connects to the riders side connection under the electrical plug?
1 the line connecting to the little barrel looking fitting on top of the block?
OR
2 the line connecting to the tube fitting running parallel to the length of the car closest to the intake manifold?
Sorry for the crappy descriptions but the best I could do.
03-23-03, 09:01 AM
#2
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are you changing all the vaccume hose??
im not sure which hose your talking about?? can you be more specific? it does provide you with a color diagram so tell us the color of the hose... and which solenoid are you talking abt? A,B,C,D,E,F,G,H?
im not sure which hose your talking about?? can you be more specific? it does provide you with a color diagram so tell us the color of the hose... and which solenoid are you talking abt? A,B,C,D,E,F,G,H?
03-23-03, 09:16 AM
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Yes I am changing all of them.
The hose connected to the "A" solenoid under the electrical connector.
The line is light green colored on the diagram.
I can follow it until it stops under the yellow,green,gold.green lines and disappears there.
I think it hooks to the parallel (to the length of the car)tube connection, just looking for reasureance due to the location.
The dark blue lines look like they hook to the "barrel" fittings on the block.
The hose connected to the "A" solenoid under the electrical connector.
The line is light green colored on the diagram.
I can follow it until it stops under the yellow,green,gold.green lines and disappears there.
I think it hooks to the parallel (to the length of the car)tube connection, just looking for reasureance due to the location.
The dark blue lines look like they hook to the "barrel" fittings on the block.
03-23-03, 09:44 AM
#4
built my own engine
i think he's talking about the oil injector vaccum lines
the diagrams are unclear, but you'll see two oil injectors on the rotor housings, they should have the little clear plastic oil lines going to them as well
the diagrams are unclear, but you'll see two oil injectors on the rotor housings, they should have the little clear plastic oil lines going to them as well
03-23-03, 11:31 AM
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Correct 93blackFD. I think the line in question goes from the vacuume port between the two oil injector vacuume lines. I think that is the one that connects to the "A" solenoid. can anybody confirm this for me?
03-23-03, 12:26 PM
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A = the Fuel Pressure Regulator Solenoid...
it's the light blue vacuume hose alright!!
if im not mistaken... by looking at the diagram it only has two vacuume line... one that goes to the FPR and the other to the back wall of the LIM...
it's the light blue vacuume hose alright!!
if im not mistaken... by looking at the diagram it only has two vacuume line... one that goes to the FPR and the other to the back wall of the LIM...
Last edited by Cihuuy; 03-23-03 at 12:29 PM.
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03-23-03, 03:57 PM
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Got it ! Thanks everyone. I figured it out through the process of elimination. After I knew what the little barrel things were (oil injectors) then it became obvious.
I would rather do the 5th gear syncro 2 or 3 times than to do this hose job again. What a pain in the ***.
as soon as I get this debugged I will remove the SSDP and have the 2nd bung welded in for my wideband OS then I can reinstall the WB controller and start tuning the AEM system.
Again thanks alot and have a great day knowing you helped a fellow 3rd genner out.
I would rather do the 5th gear syncro 2 or 3 times than to do this hose job again. What a pain in the ***.
as soon as I get this debugged I will remove the SSDP and have the 2nd bung welded in for my wideband OS then I can reinstall the WB controller and start tuning the AEM system.
Again thanks alot and have a great day knowing you helped a fellow 3rd genner out.
03-24-03, 11:36 AM
#13
5yr member, joined 2001
Originally posted by Rated R1
Hey Jonski is that pic with or w/o the rack in there? It has been a while since I have been in that deep.
Hey Jonski is that pic with or w/o the rack in there? It has been a while since I have been in that deep.
03-31-03, 06:54 PM
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The great hose job was a success ? Started the car and ran it 3 or 4 miles with no problems. Thanks for the Help with the hose identification everyone.
I have the second bung being added to the SSDP now so I hope to be roadbound again later this weekend.
Now starts the fun part adding the AEM and doing all the mapping and fine tuning.
Again thanks
Jonski > it worked, I have no idea WTF you are talking about Mr 9u()Tnck Opala
I have the second bung being added to the SSDP now so I hope to be roadbound again later this weekend.
Now starts the fun part adding the AEM and doing all the mapping and fine tuning.
Again thanks
Jonski > it worked, I have no idea WTF you are talking about Mr 9u()Tnck Opala
03-31-03, 08:40 PM
#19
Hey guys i was just wondering how to take off that emissions hose rack that's with all the solenoids. with out having to take off the fuel lines and ignition setup.
I'm trying to get to the primary and secondary injectors so i can replace the o-rings cause i think there leaking.
BTW i accidentally broke the connector going into the injectors trying to reach down there. It still goes into the injector but if i pull it'll come off easily. Now i'm pissed.
I'm trying to get to the primary and secondary injectors so i can replace the o-rings cause i think there leaking.
BTW i accidentally broke the connector going into the injectors trying to reach down there. It still goes into the injector but if i pull it'll come off easily. Now i'm pissed.
03-31-03, 09:49 PM
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The solenoids and the rack should come off together, they are held on by phillips head screws at the front and rear of the rack.
The plastic gets very brittle from heat. be very careful with the solenoids and the vacume connections, the solenoids are $50.00 each.
You only get 1 try with the phillips heads so DON'T strip the heads of the soft screws.
What line on the injector are you talking about?
You can get just the hose rack off but it will involve removing lots more hose connections
The plastic gets very brittle from heat. be very careful with the solenoids and the vacume connections, the solenoids are $50.00 each.
You only get 1 try with the phillips heads so DON'T strip the heads of the soft screws.
What line on the injector are you talking about?
You can get just the hose rack off but it will involve removing lots more hose connections
04-01-03, 04:51 PM
#21
Well i did manage to strip the 3 screws that went on the rack. DAM! But i'll order new ones.
Another thing man! when i took off one of the injectors from the secondary, i left it with out the injector on overnight. The next morning i went to work on my other rx7(2nd gen) and i saw a puddle of fuel. Now how did that get there? i didn't disconnect anything else. did it leak from the injecector or where from?
Another thing man! when i took off one of the injectors from the secondary, i left it with out the injector on overnight. The next morning i went to work on my other rx7(2nd gen) and i saw a puddle of fuel. Now how did that get there? i didn't disconnect anything else. did it leak from the injecector or where from?
04-01-03, 06:39 PM
#22
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Don't put the stock screws back in. Replace them with standard 8 MM hex head or socket head cap screws. use a little bit of low release loctite so you never have to deal with it again.
I stripped one out and had to resort to channel locks to get it out.
Good luck!
I stripped one out and had to resort to channel locks to get it out.
Good luck!
04-02-03, 05:42 AM
#23
Oh man! Thanks! that's a good idea! i'll replace them with 8mm hex screw or socket screw. Why is this car so difficult... i had to use a hammer and chissel to get these screws out. any other tips
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