widebody2

Hey all, I'm running 17 lbs and no matter what I try I can't get my intercooler piping to stay clamped. The silicon connectors keep popping off the IC with WOT. I've tried a few different types of clamps and even used exhaust clamps because I could tighten the hell out of them. Most of the clamps I have are just regular hardware clamps...they are not working. I do have this one super heavy duty clamp that looks like it has washers on it. It doesn't loosen with vibrations. Does anyone know where I can get more clamps like that? Thanks

spurvo

You might try the constant torque T-bolt clamp from McMaster-Carr. Here's a pic...

DamonB

Why someone would bother putting t-bolt clamps on the air pump I have no idea Now on the pressure side of the turbos, they are nice to have (but I have never needed them to keep my 11psi from escaping).

dubulup

so the Y-pipe matches...

spurvo

Yeah, so the y-pipe matches

Actually, I find myself pulling the intake SO OFTEN, that the worm screw clamps were stripping out. These don't strip. They also don't rain little metal shavings all over my engine as I tighten 'em.

Oh, wait. I meant 'cause it makes me shift mad qwik, yo! And I think I follow that up with bling-bling, right?

maxcooper

The real problem is not the clamps, most likely, but rather that the pipes don't have (or don't have enough of) a bead to retain the hose. You shouldn't need to crank down the clamps to hold the hoses on, even at high boost. Another possibility is that the engine movement or something is fighting to disconnect the hose/pipe. Something is wrong if you have to get crazy with the clamping to keep the hose on.

The T-bolt clamps with a spring, and the worm-type clamps with the "washers" are the kind you want. In other words, don't use T-bolts without the spring, and don't use worm-drive clamps without the "washers" (which are in fact springs). They are called "constant torque" clamps and they stay tight through heat cycles. Clamps without a spring might be called "constant size" clamps since they don't keep a good squeeze on things through temp changes, and tend to loosen over time.

http://www.mcmaster.com/ sells both kinds of contant torque clamps (T-bolt and worm).

-Max

Tom93R1

iTrader: (2)

I had a similar problem with my old silicon intake hoses. I replaced them with a hose from http://www.bakerprecision.com/silicone.htm that was meant for turbos and withstands the oil. The outside of the hose is textured too. These stay on and have never slipped at all. I cant even get it to slip off by grabbing my intake pipes and pulling! I think the problem is that alot of kits come with the smooth silicon hoses that were meant for coolant non-turbo intakes, they dont withstand oil. They get slippery and if you clamp them too hard start to fall apart.

I seriously recommend you spend a few bucks and buy a foot of the turbo hose and just try it out.

DamonB

I have been using and recommending the "turbo hose" from Baker for a long time and I have never had a boost leak issue with the intercooler piping since using it. I think Max says it best that if you have constant problems, it ain't the clamps.

widebody2

the problem is my damn intercooler is designed poorly. It's an m2 med. size knock off. the core is the same but there isn't enough piping comming from the end tank for me to really get a good grab on it. Also it is angled slightly upwards and doesn't line up well with my connector. Thanks for the advice. I already ordered the constant torque t bolt clamps...if those don't work I will try getting some different connectors.

twinturboteddy

I use those seame clamps and they do they job nicely. Kinda pricey though. A couple bucks for just one.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

I had the same problem with my Greddy SMIC when I upgraded to the Efini y-pipe. I purchased M2 4ply silicone couplers from turbohoses.com and the constant torque t-clamps from McMasterCar.

damian

iTrader: (2)

my god!!! are you running 100 psi

rx7dv8

100 psi !!

GsrSol

If you want tbolt clamps go here

http://vecco.net/hard.htm

BoOsTin FD

What size do we have to use on the stock IC couplers?

GsrSol

2.75"

RonKMiller

Here be da' best, they don't "bite" or "chew":

http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?br...ocation_id=546

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

I would agree with DamonB..

I would say its your silicone hose.. Are you sure they are reinforced silicone hose?? Otherwise, When the hose gets hot and pressurized, it will expand/stretch out and eventually it will pop off.. Make sure to get a nice, reinforced silicone hose or sometimes nice radiator hose will work.. I don't think its your clamps.. unless your clamps are just bad..

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

I don't know about this one.. I think its for cooler systems.. I don't think it will work for our car.. as it runs lot hotter.. By reading it, as it gets cooler, the clamps gets shorter.. by engine heat this thing will not be able to hold anything.. but I could be wrong..

tmiked

Its kinda 'ghetto' but you can run HT silicone RTV under your hoses to keep them from slipping off. Rough up the OD of the aluminum that slips under the hose. Use the best clamps you can find, but they all put out plenty of force for turbo pressures.


Ron, those heat shrink clamps are lame
1) You have to get new one everytime you work on your car.
2) You have no good way of knowing how much clamping force you have.
3) When you in a hurry, you cant use a clamp 2 sizes too big like i always wind up doing with worm drive clamps

If anyone needs some, I have some 304 stainless ty-wraps for up to 4.00 OD. They work good for intake (suction only) and clamping heat tape or heat shields on DP & exhaust ($2.50/ea shipped)

Mike