I was wondering if anyone knew how to go about changing the pills with the Home Depot Bleeder valves. I guess what I really need to know is can I just go to Home Depot and ask for bleeder valves and it will be the right one or what? I have heard that several people have replaced their pills with these valves when they were having trouble with adjusting their boost. I know that I can just keep changing pills (trial and error) and eventually get the right people, but I thought that this might be another solution to my problem.

If anyone can give me a part number (or a better description) of what I should be looking for at Home Depot then I would appreciate it. Or if you have another idea (of a different type of valve setup) that might be better, then I'm open to suggestions.

Thanks,

Cody

 

http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobi...controller.htm


that should ans all your ques

the home depot valve can be screwed in or out to vary the size of the hole..basically a adjustible pill..i had it but profec b is the way to go imho

 

I had great luck with my bleaders, they took a little while to tune, but worked great once they were set. I bought some better valves from a paint supply store, I think they were made by Shark, or called Shark valves. Then I had to buy the vacuum nipple things from Home Depot. If you are interested email me, I'm sure I still have them around in the garage. Melon350@aol.com.

Nick

 

I think the part you are talking about is a Sharpe Air Adjusting Valve. Model 12AAV, computer #1010. I've been doing some research since I originally posted this thread. I've heard that using an adjustable valve is somewhat unreliable. I guess I'm kind of afraid of the valve opening or closing a little bit more while I'm driving. Does anyone have this kind of problem? Or does anyone know of an adjustable valve that can be locked into place or perhaps "clicks" between settings in order to lock its position.

Thanks,

Cody

 

The valves I bought have a good amount of resistance so they won't just turn on there own. After you have them adjusted it is a good idea to mark them with a marker so if some jackass decides to reach in and give them a turn you don't need to go retune them again.

Nick

 

I just went to the plumbing section of Home Depot and got some little 1/4 inch valves. I think that they are brass, but maybe they're just yellow in color. Who cares, they work.

I agree that a real boost controller is the BEST solution idependant of cost, but if you just want basic boost control... you're not going to beat the price of "almost free" from Home Depot.

Brian

 

I just did that mod this weekend.

It works pretty well. Follow the directions on Rob's site, and you will be golden.

Remember...Tightening the valve (CLOCKWISE) will INCREASE boost.

Backing it out...or opening it will decrease boost. Remember this when you go test it. Back it out about 2 FULL TURNS. That should give you about 8 psi...then slowly crank it in till you get it where you want it.

Later,
Patrick

 

Do you guys know if you can control boost by putting a needle valve to replace the hose that goes from the wastegate actuator to the solenoid. I've heard that later model turbos don't have pills and you have to drill the turbos and then connect the needle valves to control boost. I don't know if I have pills or not, but I would think it's a pain in the *** to drill the turbo housing. That's why I thought maybe boost can be controlled by putting a valve between the actuator and the solenoid. I'm no expert that's why I thought I ask you guys that know more. Thanks for your advice.

 

If you don't have a pill in the wastegate line, then you will have an orifice built into the nipple it connects to.

It will neck down and create a small hole. The best way to find out, is pull the line off your wastegate actuator, and look.

Either way, you can use a need valve to control maximum boost. If you don't have pills though, you have to drill out the nipple...and it is more difficult.

Good luck.

Patrick