Hey guys, looking into high flow water pumps, it looks like my only options for OEM replacement is the RE-Medy and r-magic. I tried to order the RE-Medy from Essex rotary but it doesn’t seem like they ship outside of the UK and I have not been able to contact them. The R-magic one is about 75$ more on RHD Japan, so obviously I would like to go the cheaper option lol anyone have any leads or suggestions on where to purchase one? Thanks for any help!

 

Do you track the car? Are you modified and running high(er) boost?

 

Contact Mazmat as they were the ones that pushed/had them always in stock back in the day: https://mazmartstore.mybigcommerce.com/

 

MazMart were the ones that built the re-medy wp so that would be my first choice on vendors

 

20b swap using FD water pump housing, I did see mazmart was the ones who made them originally. I tried their website and they don’t have it on there and I called them as well with no answer, but shall keep trying them!

 

i bought mine from Mazmart. Rick Engman (RIP) made mine and others sold thru Mazmart. i have been in contact w Paul/MM who is attempting to continue w the item. i have a need for a few and Paul will be contacting me as soon as he can restart production. i will post on this thread.

i did a bit of re-fitting my coolant system a few years ago. prior to the re-fit i ran 87 C on the street... like most.

i now run 67 C.

re-fit was:

Mishimoto thermostat MMTS-RX7_89 153 F
FFE idler pulley
Rick Engman water pump

 

oh wow that’s quite difference in temp. I am 100% down to purchase one, would definitely appreciate you keeping me updated via this thread, thank you!!

 

Unless you are building a full on TRACK CAR or making insane horsepower, stock WP is all you need. Radiator, ducting, and running the fans properly make a far bigger impact on cooling.

Dale

 

Stock stuff works!

The HF water pumps caught some negative feedback for premature failures, though to be fair it could be a lot of things.
If you're under driving the pump and abusing the car on the track, it probably make sense.
Almost all street cars will do fine with the stock pump and there's not a great reason to upgrade.

 

I had one of the RE-Medy pumps that sat up in my attic for a few years. Sold it to a friend and it failed in short order, leaking from the weep hole. Now, that could have been from it sitting in the hot attic but it didn't give me a lot of confidence.

This is fixing a problem most people simply don't have. FD's making less than 400hp that are mostly on the street simply don't have cooling problems. Upgrade the radiator, make sure the ducting is in place, run fans properly, good OEM thermostat, and you will be 82-88 degrees all day long no problems.

Dale

 

I was running my 13b with a koyo rad and rx8 fans and it stayed perfectly cool, so I 100% agree with you on that one. I’m going to be running a 20b with a goal of 650-700hp, and was told by my builder it would be a good idea. I have the chase bays tucked radiator with dual 12in 1700cfm fans, what’s your opinion with that set up? Trying to stay away from an electric water pump for now.

 

I don't totally agree with you. Yeah the stock wp is pretty good but... I noticed a small but observable improvement with the REmedy wp. Even on the street. I posted my experiences with it way back when if someone wants to search for my posts. Mine has probably been on the car for over 10 years now.

 

Ive been running a Remedy for many many years along with Evans NPG+ with zero issues. Car sits rock solid at 83-85F on the street under pretty much all conditions. Big fan of both the pump and the Evans

 

why so low? how does it affect tuning?
how about the oil temps, does it not need to be hot enough to flash volatile contaminants?

 

I can understand why the OP wants one on his 20b. And since our cars tend to get special attention I might bite if I was replacing a bad OEM.
But if it meant pulling a good OEM pump on a mildly modded street car, on the “things to do for better cooling” continuum, installing a RE pump would be pretty low.

 

Well if you are going 20B that's a totally different ballgame. Most likely you'll be chasing some substantial power numbers and you have a much larger block to cool so in this case it makes sense.

Probably should have led with that fact

Dale

 

Any particular reason not to go EWP? Doing a 20B conversion is no small task, how much extra effort would it take to just do a proper/complete upgrade based on the technology currently available?

 

EWP is nice for the post-drive cool-down aspect, if nothing else. Mounting it might be a pain in an overstuffed engine bay.

 

im trying to retain AC on it and I was told by my builder it was difficult to keep it with no water pump housing. And it’s less than half the cost 😅 goal is 650-750rwhp, and the high flow water pump is supposed to be more than sufficient for that. Not racing the car in anyway.

😂 yeaaaa probably should have. I was just trying source one, but application would have been a good detail

 

i am happy to report January availability of the uprated Mazmart/Engman water pump.

first come first served, ships early Jan according to MazMart.

https://mazmartstore.mybigcommerce.c...x-7-1993-2002/

does your FD absolutely require it? of course not, but it is an upgrade. can you imagine if your turbo compressor had a wheel similar to the OE water pump? i suspect there is lots of slippage with such a crude wheel. air bubbles in the coolant and certainly less flow.

the uprated item is built from a brand new Mazda water pump.

i am not affiliated w Mazmart but am affiliated w the pump in that it is on my engine and a bunch of my customer engines.

 

good lookin out. Just ordered mine 👌

 

@Howard Coleman can you comment on your target 67C temps? Thanks

 

He's running a low thermostat. You could run a higher/normal thermostat and not have to deal with potential over-cooling, if it's concerning.

 

i did lots of tuning of hot boats... most were running stone cold ECTs from the coldish lake water. previously we had done quite a bit of engine stand dyno tuning for my piston racecar and we did a bunch of work to determine ideal coolant temps for max power. 195 was the number. i transposed this over to boats. we choked down the water inflow and it worked well.

so i know about coolant temps and how they effect most variables. i am currently running 30 F cooler than many FDs. of course this is just cruising around with occasional blasts. if i were to do a few laps at Road Atlanta, or wherever, i can assure you my oil, my power and my coolant temps would be just fine. in the meantime, my view is that heat is cumulative as to effect. in the last year and a half, doing road tuning (unfortunately in the mountains) i have over 230 logged 3rd gear runs in addition to more than 100 runs in Wisconsin where there are straight roads and am happy with all my metrics. i will take 30 less F, around 155. my engine bay thanks me.

most of my current setup is pointed towards the Texas Mile which is 30 seconds around 575 or more. heat is the primary challenge.

 

A slightly off-subject comment on coolant flow-rates:
The faster the coolant flows, the more constant the temperatures in all parts of the cooling system will be. This results in improved cooling efficiency (more of the radiator area is at the "same" temperature) and longer engine life since large temperature variations within the engine are minimized.
Higher flow rates also result in thinner boundary layers in the cooling system, improving heat transfer.