High amp alternator
Originally Posted by impactwrench
What am I missing here? He put a 200 A in his car to supply more amps when he needs it. That does'nt mean that it is pumping 200 amps all the time and robbing HP all the time, Right?
Originally Posted by zkeller
.
Our #7806-200A is the unit I recommend. Cost $329.00+ shipping.
Cliff/ Startech Inc./ www.gostartech.com / 800-827-4244
Our #7806-200A is the unit I recommend. Cost $329.00+ shipping.
Cliff/ Startech Inc./ www.gostartech.com / 800-827-4244
What GM vehicle is this alternator actually use in?
I think I'm headed over to Startech tomorrow to pick up one of their alternators if they have something in stock. Mazsport is now charging OVER $500 for their unit (according to the website). Zkeller, send pics to me! I probably don't need the 200A alternator so I may go with the 140A but I'll talk with one of their techs first.
My current issue (no pun intended!) is that I can't get more than say 13 volts when the car is cold. As the car heats up, the voltage drops down to 12.5 (PFC's voltage gauge). If I turn on the air and the stereo, it'll drop to 12V and below, usually below. The more I turn up the volume, the lower the voltage drop. I know the alternator is probably on it's way out. Did the ground check and came up with nothing.
My current issue (no pun intended!) is that I can't get more than say 13 volts when the car is cold. As the car heats up, the voltage drops down to 12.5 (PFC's voltage gauge). If I turn on the air and the stereo, it'll drop to 12V and below, usually below. The more I turn up the volume, the lower the voltage drop. I know the alternator is probably on it's way out. Did the ground check and came up with nothing.
What are the chances? I take the OEM alternator out...put the new in for a trial fitment. I put the OEM back in and guess what...I'm now getting 13.5V at idle with the a/c, radio and wideband all on. Didn't change a thing and nothing looked amiss when taking the OEM out. I guess I'll take my time putting the high output unit in or I may just send it back.
I resent my pic to your email address. 13.5 volts at idle is a little low, but with the stock alt, is possible when the cooling fans kick on, etc.
make sure your electrical load unit is doing its job. Your idle should step up a bit when there is an electrical load.
That alt that you bought has ***** that clank. You will never run into a voltage issue with it.
make sure your electrical load unit is doing its job. Your idle should step up a bit when there is an electrical load.
That alt that you bought has ***** that clank. You will never run into a voltage issue with it.
Yeah I'm going to install it regardless...I may change the driver's side bracket to something that'll be able to adjust the belt tension however. Summit Racing has a number of bracket kits available. Wonder if they have a better looking fan for the front! Thanks for the pics.
Michel
Michel
When I was searching for high output alternators, I found a company called HO Alternators (no laughs, please...). They offer a drop-in replacement for $699 (you read correctly!) that's 190 amps, no cutting wires, no brackets to modify, a direct OEM replacement. A bit rich for my blood, but I thought I'd share the info. Contact Josh Reed at josh@h-o-alternators.com. Hopefully it's gilded in gold!
Bryan,
I'm sort of hesitant to sell it but a very bad thing happened to me today on the way to Immokalee...one of the thousands of gravel trucks in Naples dumped some of his load on Immokalee Road including a large "boulder" which I hit dead on, bounced into my undercarriage and smashed my Xcessive Motorsports aluminum pan. BIG oil leak and about 7 quarts went splat onto the roadway within 50 feet. Luckily I saw the oil pressure gauge to to zero and I shut the car down. A new pan is going to be about $450 so I'll need the funds. You can have it for what I paid for it (I have the receipt) which will save you shipping or the cost of driving over there. Let me know. I can run over to PFC's. Right now the car is at Evolution Motorsports off of Progress Ave. (where Cunningham Cycles is) where it's going to be repaired. Oh, split the bottom of my FEED front end too...I'll be ordering the RE-Amemiya N1 nose. I know you wanted a FEED front end. I have someone who can fix it, good as new. Give me a buzz on my cell when you get a chance. I'll send you a PM with the number again. Oh, the alternator is in the car. I have the pigtail plug to hook the alt up to the FD's harness too.
Bryan,
I'm sort of hesitant to sell it but a very bad thing happened to me today on the way to Immokalee...one of the thousands of gravel trucks in Naples dumped some of his load on Immokalee Road including a large "boulder" which I hit dead on, bounced into my undercarriage and smashed my Xcessive Motorsports aluminum pan. BIG oil leak and about 7 quarts went splat onto the roadway within 50 feet. Luckily I saw the oil pressure gauge to to zero and I shut the car down. A new pan is going to be about $450 so I'll need the funds. You can have it for what I paid for it (I have the receipt) which will save you shipping or the cost of driving over there. Let me know. I can run over to PFC's. Right now the car is at Evolution Motorsports off of Progress Ave. (where Cunningham Cycles is) where it's going to be repaired. Oh, split the bottom of my FEED front end too...I'll be ordering the RE-Amemiya N1 nose. I know you wanted a FEED front end. I have someone who can fix it, good as new. Give me a buzz on my cell when you get a chance. I'll send you a PM with the number again. Oh, the alternator is in the car. I have the pigtail plug to hook the alt up to the FD's harness too.
quick question...
so if I am getting say 12.X volts at idle with nothing but the engine running...can that cause idle problems and such related to ignition? sometimes I see 13.1 when I am cruising at ~ 2500 rpm.
Thanks.
so if I am getting say 12.X volts at idle with nothing but the engine running...can that cause idle problems and such related to ignition? sometimes I see 13.1 when I am cruising at ~ 2500 rpm.
Thanks.
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,067
Likes: 7
From: Home of the Rolex 24
Originally Posted by TwinTurbo_SE7EN
quick question...
so if I am getting say 12.X volts at idle with nothing but the engine running...can that cause idle problems and such related to ignition? sometimes I see 13.1 when I am cruising at ~ 2500 rpm.
Thanks.
so if I am getting say 12.X volts at idle with nothing but the engine running...can that cause idle problems and such related to ignition? sometimes I see 13.1 when I am cruising at ~ 2500 rpm.
Thanks.
I just purchased a brand new 3rd gen alternator that was re-wound and now rated at 200 amp max and 165 amp continuous duty. Not cheap though. About $600 however it is built from all brand new parts without a core charge. You can add the full polish on the case for and extra $125 as i did but can also be chromed for the same price however it is not recommended unless used for a show car. I was told the chrome would cut the life of the alternator as it would hold in to much heat. Any one interested in one can pm me. It takes about 3-4 weeks upon order.
I am installing a GM alt in my 7 . The GM unit has an internal fan .The brackets I made have been sent out for chrome plating and Jeremy has polished the case .My design has the belt adjuster on the side and out of sight, not like the stock adjuster .The chrome should be back this week .The installation looks really good and the max output can be set by the alt builder by changing the windings and the rotor .I will need to make a small pulley for it before calling it finished .
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