FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

Ok here's the deal. I have a greddy oil block adapter, and so the oil filter sits higher, very close to the TPS harness.

so i went to change my oil and filter, and I didnt want to disconnect the TPS harness, so I changed the filter w/o taking it off. Apparently i musta done something in the area of that filter...whether it be to the TPS harness, or that screw on a bracket to the left of where the TPS harness plugs into (not sure what it is...the screw from underneath the bracket has a spring around it, if that helps any)

symptoms:
- idle has dropped from at 1000rpm normally to bouncing between 700-900 rpm, and the engine is sputtering

- im getting a LOT of blue smoke from my exhaust, which I've never had before

- there's a delay in throttle response. I give it some throttle, and get a lower response than usual

- upon getting on the throttle more aggressively, it's as if the engine is sputtering the whole way through. The engine roars, the rpms rise, but it's sputtering all throughout.

- did i mention lots of smoke??

I tried checking the TPS harness...it's plugged in nicely. The screw I saw next to it w/ the spring on the bottom half, I was playing w/ the bracket and noticed that if you pull it down, the engine sputters even more, and almost stalls. So i figured if I unscrew the screw some, the bracket would go up, and it would help. So I took off my greddy elbow, unscrewed the screw a good amount, put the elbow back on, and nothing changed. I THINK I might be getting a little blue smoke from right around the filter area as well, but I just saw that now, so that may just be from taking off the elbow and having oil all over the place.

Any suggesstions/diagnoses would be greatly appreciated (in SIMPLE terms lol)

PandazRx-7

iTrader: (18)

Hmmm, sounds like you accidently unplugged the MAP sensor...

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

You know what would be GREAT? If you could tell this newbie where that would be lol

PandazRx-7

iTrader: (18)

It's a little black box that says "boost sensor" on it on the firewall...there is a vacuum hose that goes from it to the back side of the UIM. Also, there is a small gas filter(as in fumes) in the vacuum line.

You could have easily unplugged the line because it's very close to the TPS and oil filter area...

Wow, with over 1,000 posts I didn't think you were really a newbie...LOL

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

LOL...what can I say. I'm def a newbie, because in my line of work, I simply don't get enough (actually ANY) time for actual hands on experience w/ my car.

The vast majority of my posts are in things related to interior and exterior typa stuff, simply because I have a few things done to my car's body that not many other forum members have. The rest of them I'd like to think are me trying to understand the mechanics behind things, since I'm of a bio sciences background, w/ NO mechanical info. But it's coming, slowly but surely haha

I just checked the map sensor. The harness that goes into it is on fine. But the vaccum line you're talking about...does it connect to the bottom of that black box? Because I couldn't find anything leading away from the box, but I did find this little black stub from underneath the box, which looks very much like a hose could attach to it.

If so, now I gotta know exactly where the hose comes off the UIM, so I can trace it, since I looked and couldn't find an unplugged hose laying around...

Thanks for the help btw...

SBi_Owner

It connects about a half inch down and 1 inch back behind the TPS. You can get your finger back there and check for it. It is recessed under the UIM.

Androidmj

anyone know why the forum won't let me (us?) upload pictures? Its been happening for probably a week.

and in response to your question, you need to have a hose going from that little nipple on the MAP sensor black box, to another nipple on the manifold close to where it connects to the throttle body. Find a hose diagram on this forum if you don't understand where i'm talking about, i wish i could post pics, but its not working unfortunately....

PandazRx-7

iTrader: (18)

Yes, there is supposed to be a vacuum hose there...now explaining where it is to you is a little tricky.

You won't be able to "see" where it goes, but it's on the side of the upper manifold, on the firewall side. You should see the loose hose hanging there...Maybe I have a pic...I'll try to post it.

crap...beat me to it

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

The explanation seems pretty simple. I'mma run out and see if I can feel for it, and find it. It's weird cuz I couldn't find a loose hose around the map sensor...

As for the pics...I read this once, and I thought it was the best quote I'd seen in a WHILE...

"The forum is like a cheap ho...it'll go down on ya in 20 seconds..." LOL

I'm sure you know this, but make sure the pic is small enough (i think the max size is 124Kb). What I try to do when it pisses me off is I open the same thread in 3 diff windows, and try to post the pic 3 diff times at the same time. Usually one goes through LOL.

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

Guess what? I FOUND IT!! The hose was actually lying right against the firewall, behind another hose, so I couldn't see it. Put that sucker back on, and she was fine.

I think the idle is now at like 1600 lol...so I think I gotta screw in that screw a little more until it returns to about 1000, rite?

MAN I LOVE THIS FORUM HAHA. Thanks a lot guys...I really appreciate it.

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

Oh wait...I forgot the MOST important question (in my view).

HOW did you know it was the map sensor? Like what tipped you off? Cuz this is how I can get a better understanding of how all this works...

SBi_Owner

Actually, you need to jump out TEN and GND on the diagnostic box and turn the idle down to 725 with the screw under the TB. When you pull the jumper off, the idle should go up to where it should be. If not, there is another problem.

SBi_Owner

The smoke was from being rich. You pull off the connector and the sensor reads 0 vs. 10in Hg(or so) and goes rich as if the turbo's are spooling.

PandazRx-7

iTrader: (18)

Because I read on this forum like crazy everyday (addict)and it's a pretty common problem I guess. Usually whenever people think they blew ther engines....the forum says "Check the MAP sensor" Whenever the engine is running rich "Did you check the MAP sensor" ...."MAP SENSOOOOR!!! LOL


Sorry, no technical answer here...

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

Is the screw you're talking about the one I mentioned (right next to the TPS harness, and it has a spring on the bottom half of it?)

And I take it the jumper is that bracket I was pulling down...you're saying when I pull it off, the idle should go up or down to where it should be? That makes sense.

I gotta try it now w/ the map sensor plugged in. When i tried it earlier the map sensor wasn't plugged.

PandazRx-7, LOL...ROFL...you know, now that you mention it, you're right, I do see that a lot too lol. ALWAYS CHECK THE MAP SENSOR haha. At least now i know where it is and how to check it!

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

Oh...why am I pulling the TEN and GND on the diagnostic box when I'm messing w/ the idle screw? (not arguing...just curious/trying to understand).

And is the screw i was talking about the idle screw? If not, what was it..and where can i find that idle screw?

SBi_Owner

Ok, here we go....
The TEN and GND are in the little diagnostic box to the right of the battery, right by some relays. You open the top of the box and you will see the connectors marked TEN and one GND. When you hook a jumper wire between them, you bypass the air control system in order to adjust the base RPM. The screw you need to turn is under the TB between the two nuts that hold on the elbow. There is a long black tube there with a notch in the top where the screw is.

The screw you are talking about is also an idle adjustment screw, but you need to set the primary idle first on the TB.

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

SBi_Owner,

Thanks for the DETAILED instructions haha. That's crystal clear.

I'm sure once I find the screw I can manage to get to it w/ the greddy elbow in place. As for the other idle screw (the non-primary one) it's a PITA because I can't adjust it w/ the elbow on (at least not w/ my hands). There's not enough space, so I gotta take off the elbow, adjust it, put it back on, start the car, check the idle, and do it all over again if need be (my assumption is you can't/shouldn't have the engine running w/ the elbow off).

academytim

"(tps problem maybe)"


"You know you're supposed to have a cover sheet on your TPS reports. Did you get that memo? I'll make sure to get you a copy of the memo."

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

LOL...no no no Tim. That's def. not what I meant haha. But I'm sure you knew that =)

BTW...you're a punk for not showing up to RR...

SBi_Owner

You should be able to adjust it with a 6" flat head, it will just fit in the notch, trust me.

academytim

I know man, I was more dissapointed than anyone about that...trust me. I was looking forward to hearing your stereo setup. Phil told me the 8s are ROCKIN...now he's thinking about doing 8s. Are you happy with the setup?

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

I'm guessing you're talking about the primary idle screw, cuz the other one, there's absolutely no way anything can get to it, since w/ the oil block adaptor, the screw is less than half an inch away from the filter. That's why I gotta take the elbow off, cuz I have to turn the screw w/ my fingers lol

Yea the 8s are real powerful. The thing is, you can never really get enough bass hehe. The 8s are brand new actually. JL hasn't had the w7s in 8s for too long. They hit real hard and crisp. Only prob is they require soo much room. I *BARELY* got them to fit in a box under the rear strut bar. But if you don't care/need a trunk, then you won't have a prob.

If Phil's a basshead like me, and space isn't an issue, I'd go w/ two 10s haha. It just won't get better than that (did I mention the 8s go for like $500 EACH?!)