themcneal

iTrader: (1)

Here's one I couldn't find searching....

My left turn signal indicator in the car is stuck on (illuminated) and the left turn signal indicators front and rear are on (illuminated,but not blinking)

When I turn on the "right" turn signal via the stalk, they operate fine.
When I turn on the "left" turn signal via the stalk, the indicator in the car stays solid, the turn signals front and rear stay solid and the blinker noise is 2x or 3x faster than it should be.

According the 1993 Workshop manual - page F1-18, Flowchart number 8 - this symptom is indicative of a possible (a) burnt bulb or (b) damaged flasher control unit.

I removed the front left turn signal bulb and the left turn dash indicator stayed on.
I removed the rear left turn signal bulb and the left turn dash indicator stayed on.
I removed both front left and rear left turn signal bulbs (simultaneously) and the left turn dash indicator stayed on.

Next, removed the 16 pin connector from what I believe is the flasher control unit (black box in the drivers footwell behind the kickpanel that says "Flasher" on it). I checked the pins and they all seem to be in, and I plugged in back on - left turn signal indicator on dash still on (even on when the connector was unplugged it was on).

Next, removed the connector going into the bottom of what I believe is the flasher control unit and and I plugged in back on - left turn signal indicator on dash still on (even on when the connector was unplugged it was on).

Next, removed what is a small (maybe 8 pin connect with a yellow harness) going to the very top of what I believe to the be flasher control unit, checked the pins and they all seemed to be in. plugged in back on - left turn signal indicator on dash still on (even on when the connector was unplugged it was on).

So, what in the hell could be the problem?
How can I tell if I have a bad flasher control unit?
Has anyone had one go bad? if so, what were the symptoms?

The only other thing I could think of, is that I have had some rubbing in the drivers front fender with new tires and wheels and that somehow their could be a short in the harness from the compartment to the front blinker, but I would assume that when I removed one of the above mentioned harness connectors it would have caused the dash indicator to go out.

Anyone? RX-7 Electrical Gurus?

Thanks,

Mike

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

It's most likely something with the circuitry - as this is a pretty uncommon problem, I'd just get a good used unit and swap it out. Or, make a lot of left turns .

Dale

themcneal

iTrader: (1)

Anyone else? More help?

themcneal

iTrader: (1)

Any other wisdom out there on this topic?

Anyone had one of these go bad?

fd3virgin

i have an extra used flasher unit. i had some crazy problems and my turn signals didn't work for two years. i finally found an electrician and he found the problem. there was no power coming to the flasher unit. check that first. kevin

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

If you're concerned about the wires, you should check the continuity of the wires between your front signals and your flasher controller. A $10-20 multimeter from Radio Shack can do this.

Here's how to do it using a very old ohmmeter:



Here's HOW TO USE A CONTINUITY TESTER , according to Bob Vila!

http://www.bobvila.com/FixItClub/Tas...ityTester.html



This is assuming you have a shop manual and can read the wiring diagram well enough to see which wires you should be testing. Good luck,
-s-

InsaneGideon

Damn Scotty, where'd you get that diagram? 1972?


themcneal:
[I'm going by my '95 car/shop manual, but I'm not aware of any differences regarding this... yet]

Just to clarify: When you turn on the right-side signal, does the left side still stick on? In other words, does the left side EVER turn off?

Did this problem occur suddenly?

Are you aware of any aftermarket alarm system(s) installed on the car? Any accident damage?

When you disconnect the F1-01 connector, do the stuck lights continue to stay lit? They shouldn't. Look at the wire colors in the manual on page z-61 to help verify you have the right connector. It's actually a 7-pin... an 8pin missing a "tooth"

In any case, definitely check your fender liners for tire-wear-through. If it gets to this point, I'd expect the damage to be pretty obvious, visually. Having a +12V source short through to the light's feed could cause this sort of behaviour depending on the design... the oscillation rate could be affected from the oscillator not being able to "relax" toward ground.

With left flasher on (via stalk switch), try tapping the flasher unit/cpu2 with a reasonable amount of force (don't kill it ) to try an rule out a sticky relay.

themcneal

iTrader: (1)

Insane,

First - THANKS for the reply!

To answer your questions;
1) Left side never turns off, with both the outside lamps and the inside inside left turn indicator staying on solid - not blinking (even when I turn on the right turn signal that operates fine).

2) This occured once when I left my car parked at work (but I didn't notice till I came out, so I am not sure when it occured). As I drove from work, this problem fixed itself (solid blinker went out and left turn signal operated fine). This happened again (left turn indicators staying on solid) the following day when turning into a parking spot at the grocery store.

I will check my fender liner for wear through today. Do you know if the harness runs between the fender liner and the engine compartment? or if I could examine this from the engine compartment side?

Thanks for your help / advice with this !

InsaneGideon

It's always funny when someone calls me "Insane"... almost wish it was my real name.

With the hood open you can see a harness routed through an opening in the fender area. That's the one prone to "wheel-eat-though". This happened to TurboJeff some time ago, but the consequences were engine-related -- you can try searching for it.

BTW, I'm only bringing it up this fender liner business since you did. If you think the wheels may have eaten through the liner, check it out, regardless of this lighting situation; it could be relatively serious. If you dont see damage to the fender liner (just have a look at it from the wheel well), I'd suspect the flasher unit. A tired relay or dying transistor could very well be the cause of the symptoms you describe.

themcneal

iTrader: (1)

I briefly checked the fender well with a flashlight today with the tire on and it seems fine (only since I didn't have alot of time), but tomorrow I will be removing the wheel and tire to see get a better look, and I will check the harness routed through the fender area. I have a replacement flasher unit coming next week, so swapping that will also help.

I will update with what I discover tomorrow. Thanks again.

InsaneGideon

That's good. The damage would be fairly obvious... the liner would be shredded through in the section nearest to the passenger compartment, toward the top.

I'm still wondering -- does disconnecting the flasher unit (cpu#2) turn the stuck signal off? Knowing that can tell you whether it's a wiring issue or a flasher-unit issue.

And you don't have an aftermarket alarm, right?

themcneal

iTrader: (1)

FOUND THE PROBLEM!

With my new wheels and tires (recommded by Tire Rack no less!!!) there is scraping in the drivers front fenderwell that I found upon removing the wheel (at which time it was VERY obvious). I couldn't see it yesterday without removing the wheel.

What I found:

1) One wire completed worn through (due to tire scraping)
2) Two wires partially rubbed/scraped through
3) One wire with some slight insulation damage

What I did to the damaged wires

1) Spliced in a new wire between the ends of the one that was worn through
2) Spiliced in new wiries for the two wires partially scraped through
3) Taped up the wire with slight insulation damage

What I did to solve the problem short term; was to relocate the main wiring harness that was being rubbed. I relocated it high up inside the fenderwell (in an area that didn't show any rubbing on the fenderwell liner. Longer term I have to consider my options, but the easiest one seems to be running a smaller sidewall tire (since it's barely rubbing on the driver's side). Additionally, I may relocate my battery or get a smaller one (Odyssey, etc.) to reduce the weight in that front corner of my car, since the passenger side doesn't seem to have this same problem.

Any other recommendation? :-)

Thanks for the people who provided some help with this!

InsaneGideon

Scary!

...and did the splicing help the flasher problem?

What wheel/tire sizes and setup are you running?

It's probably splitting hairs at this point, but check that shock out.