rescueranger

iTrader: (15)

tried the oring fix .. crc weld .. degreaser

i drained my coolant .. flushed my system .. dumped degreaser .. ran the car .. let it cool .. drained it .. repeated 3 times .. then dumped 2 bottles of crc metallic weld .. and tried running the car for 30 mins .. my car overheated within the first 5 mins of driving it .. i got really scared and had to pull over .. even after i turned it off .. all i heard were loud noises coming from under the hood .. sounded like a roulette wheel spinning .. anyways im now too scared to drive it .. or even start it up .. any reason why it overheated this badly?

tiger18

iTrader: (1)

sounds like the block weld has blocked up a water way,, so no coolant circulation and overheat!

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

That's what I was gonna guess... you dumped a weld-maker into it????

reza

Maybe it weld the water pump shut.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Check the thermostat and make sure it's still functioning properly.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

LOL!!!!!! There is ONLY one fix that would do, rebuild.

This takes the prize for being irrational , not knowledgeable, and being a cheapy.

rescueranger

iTrader: (15)

bah .. i just didnt burp the system .. had to pull over into the darkest street ever and walk 2 miles back home at 3am .. suprisingly no one will pull over and give you a ride on a dark street at 3am even if youre flashing your id and thumbing for a ride

CantGoStraight

Yoy have to get all the air out of the system when you put the block weld treatment in. It works with the heat and air to form the seal. I also had to rinse the **** otta the system before I got all that damn soap out. I also purged the system and burped with only water before adding the block weld. It lasted me a year and gave me time to get money together for the rebuild/find another motor. Jack

DigDug

Yep, sounds like air in the system. The blockseal won't clog water passages. Perfectly acceptable stop-gap measure to fix a coolant seal problem without rebuild.

DamonB

I agree. The only thing that can make loud banging sounds is an air pocket.

Yep. I put another 20K on my old engine after block weld before a rear apex seal went at 98K. No issues.

The idea that block weld will clog up coolant lines/heater core/radiator etc is a MYTH. Follow the directions and it works fine without harming anything else.

rescueranger

iTrader: (15)

did you get white smoke during wot?

also how long did you leave the block weld in after the fix?

bajaman

Uh....my heater core is now COMPLETELY plugged following the block seal trick. I HAD one of the GOOD FD heaters, the car would roast you out of it. Now there is NO heat. And the only thing different from heat-to-no-heat is that I did the block seal treatment.
Coincidence?

gotorx7

Years ago I popped the O-ring on an FB..

When I pulled the spark plugs and refilled the radiator there was a nice steady spark-plug sized flow of water until it ran dry

Filled it with a can of Bars Leaks (not sure if it's an Aussie product or not).

I drove the car another 3 years - replacing the Bars leaks once a year - then traded the car into a car yard (I did tell them about the problem, but they didn't understand or care).
A pal found out I'd traded the car, rushed down to the yard and bought it for what I'd paid for it (same day) and drove it another 2 or 3 years before getting work overseas and parking the car.

I wouldn't have believed it worked as well as it did.

RX7Wishing

Jesus... You seem like a real nice guy.

DamonB

Was it CRC copper block weld? How much did you put in? Was the ENTIRE coolant system (hoses, block, radiator and heater core too!) flushed completely of coolant before the treatment? How long did you leave it in? Did you have the heater on fully hot during the treatment?

Anything can be done wrong. I still have the same radiator and heater core with absolutely no blockage or build up; I checked when the motor was out years ago.

DamonB

No. I caught the problem early as my car would use about a pint of coolant in a day's driving. The block weld fixed the leak and the engine was absolutely fine until breaking a rear apex seal at 98K.

I don't recall. Whatever the directions said to do.

CantGoStraight

I left the stuff in my coolant system till I drained it to put in the new motor. Never had any other issues. The only thing it should seal is where there's air involved. This stuff flows into the leak and the heat and air cure it. I had my heater full on and followed the writeup to a "T" like most my biggest problem was getting all that degreaser out.

DigDug

Yeah, I had to flush the system 4 times before the drainage ran clear (no soapy bubbles).

DamonB

I think mine was about 6 times! It took a while.

brancato1

That could also be a large pocket of air. I have had the same problem in my FD... apparently, getting those things flushed all the way is a pretty large task. Once I finally got it all flushed by raising the front of the car, and bleeding it, I never had the problem again.