Help with Timing on Single Conversion
#1
Help with Timing on Single Conversion
Trying to get my rebuild running smooth.
I'm running the stock coils. I have new plugs and wires and have triple checked that each coil output is connected to the correct plug and harness connector.
I have an Adaptronic PnP which allows for timing adjustments obviously, but my reading is way out of time using the base map that Adaptronic provides.
Notice my T1 mark is off by over 100 degrees and I checked and noted the other plugs just so I would know they all are firing.
Any suggestions? I did ohm out the coil packs already. My T1 and T2 packs are right at the maximum spec but they are are within. My leading coil pack is well within spec.
I get lots of exhaust smoke as well which I hope is simply due to things being so out of time.
I'm running the stock coils. I have new plugs and wires and have triple checked that each coil output is connected to the correct plug and harness connector.
I have an Adaptronic PnP which allows for timing adjustments obviously, but my reading is way out of time using the base map that Adaptronic provides.
Notice my T1 mark is off by over 100 degrees and I checked and noted the other plugs just so I would know they all are firing.
Any suggestions? I did ohm out the coil packs already. My T1 and T2 packs are right at the maximum spec but they are are within. My leading coil pack is well within spec.
I get lots of exhaust smoke as well which I hope is simply due to things being so out of time.
#3
I'm using the trigger settings using Adaptronics little 'wizard' On the Triggering tab I unlocked the trigger settings then selected Mazda ... then the 13BREW RX7 S6/S7/S8 (Standard Ignition System...) selection which loads the trigger settings that they determined. If I were to go about setting them manually, how do I determine it or what else would you think I should try?
#6
rotorhead
iTrader: (3)
See what happens when you hit lock timing --> -5L/-20T 13B option while the engine is running and the timing light is on for trailing #1. Then adjust the trigger offset so that you can line up the trailing with the white mark at -20.
I'm curious to see what kind of trigger offset would be required to get the trailing to line up, if that even works at all.
I'm curious to see what kind of trigger offset would be required to get the trailing to line up, if that even works at all.
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#8
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
This should probably go in the adaptronic section. By the sounds of things you are checking timing incorrectly. To my understanding since you don't have to "stab" the CAS for FD motors, the timing cannot be off by that much, only a few degrees +/- 5degrees or so.
Please see below:
https://www.rx7club.com/adaptronic-e...tings-1066512/
Please see below:
https://www.rx7club.com/adaptronic-e...tings-1066512/
#9
I've read over that same post by Turblown a couple of times. My next thing to do is to check my wiring. It does seem very much like my ecu is firing the wrong coils at the wrong times.
How would I have checked the timing incorrectly? Timing light is on T1 and check box is checked to lock timing.
How would I have checked the timing incorrectly? Timing light is on T1 and check box is checked to lock timing.
#10
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
See what happens when you hit lock timing --> -5L/-20T 13B option while the engine is running and the timing light is on for trailing #1. Then adjust the trigger offset so that you can line up the trailing with the white mark at -20.
I'm curious to see what kind of trigger offset would be required to get the trailing to line up, if that even works at all.
I'm curious to see what kind of trigger offset would be required to get the trailing to line up, if that even works at all.
First post by turblown was written before the new software added the -5L/-20T. ^link has short explanation of software update.
So based off your response from arghx it looks like you didn't check that box, which would lead to checking the timing wrong.
If you hit the f2 window, you will see what the timing is currently at, once you check that box, it will be at a static 20, which should line up to the pulley marks. Again, from that thread/my post, if you have a cheap gun, I would try to isolate the wire/signal as best as you can. I had a lot of interference making me chase circles trying to get my timing correct, almost adding 30+ (IIRC) degrees of offset.
Last edited by silentblu; 08-04-15 at 03:23 PM. Reason: clarification
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