I have the nut off which was a pain in the ***.
But now how in the hell do I remove the flywheel
That thing is really stuck on there.
Do I just hammer the s**t out of it or would I need a puller?
Any advice would help or pictures Thanx

 

What i do is unbolt the flywheel from the rear counter weight and then just a large gear puller to get off the rear counter weight. I putt a little flat piece of metal over the input shaft hole so it doesnt damage that also

 

rubber mallet worked fine for me

 

Big hammer with a piece of wood between it and the flywheel.

 

after removing the flywheel, screw the bolts back in the holes. keep tightening them evenly and the counterweight easily will pop loose due to the bolt shank contacting the motor housing before the head of the bolt bottoms out on the counterweight

 

There are two bolt holes opposite eachother about 4" from center on the flywheel. I don't remember the size but home depot sells the metric fine threaded bolts that will work. Leave the flywheel nut partially on so the flywheel doesn't pop off and use a large gear puller to apply pressure against those bolts and hit around the edge of the flywheel with a dead blow hammer. Eventually it will pop off and if you don't leave that nut on the flywheel will jump off the eshaft. Might as well replace the rear stationary gear o-ring and rear main engine seal while you're there.
Automatic transmissions have a separate counterweight, manual transmissions have a counterweight integrated into the flywheel.

 

I had to use a huge puller, and it still took alot. Its a real pain in the @SS!

 

Yup it's a PITA even with a gear puller...

 

Thanx guys for the feedback
I will get a puller and remove it this week.

 

Dead blow hammer, rotate 180 deg, Dead blow hammer. Rinse, repeat...

I've had them pop off after a couple hits and I've beat on them, engine in the back of my truck for 30 min to get it off. Just make sure you have the nut threaded on the e-shaft so the flywheel doesn't pop off and crush your face or severe a toe...

Your mileage may vary!

 

hit mine with a hammer and it fell to the ground.

 

Beat on the flywheel for 10min tonight.

Can anyone describe the puller (or better yet quote a particular tool) that works on the flywheel like this?

I'm picturing a basic puller that spans over the two tapped holes in the flywheel (M10?) that lifts under the heads of bolts threaded into these holes.

[Edit: like this: http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=8458]

Tips please - does Autozone rent anything effective?

Dave

 

I second the rubber mallet.

 

Yep. You also need a piece of metal for the center to drill into as you crank on it.

I have no idea if any shops rent one. I'm lucky enough to have a friend who owns one. Works like a champ every time.

 

Well on the other forum I just found someone suggesting the Autozone Timing Gear Puller + 2 M10x50mm bolts will work.

http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...dpost&p=526556

We'll see what happens.

 

Two bolts from nappa, Autozone steering wheel puller, Megga electrical tape on the E-shaft threads, 2x4, 5lb. hammer. I used the metal piece that you hook to when the engine is pulled to butt the puller end up to, (between the puller and E-shaft), its thick. Tighten it up real good. One big wack! Off it came.

 

Just to bring closure:

Autozone 27009 timing gear puller, (2) M10x1.25mm x 75mm bolts. (50mm min.)

Tightened the snot out of it, then heated around the e-shaft (don't do this with the pilot bearing in) for a few minutes. Finally went to 2-handed hammering with a 5lb dead-blow mallet. After a few minutes of making unbelieveable racket, it got loose.

Dave

 

I had to use a wheel/damper puller and a deadblow hammer--simultaneously.

Moreover, I would definitely recommend replacing the rear main seal on a high mileage engine. I didn't and guess what's leaking...

 

You guys are freakin killin me. As I said way back in this thread, I know it seems hard to believe, screw the bolts back into the holes and it jacks itself off. No pun intended. Keep the hammers in the box!

 

You were talking about a separate counterweight. I have the one-piece stock manual flywheel.

And all that work was for nothing - all the tension bolts were tight.

Dave