Help! Plastic in keyhole cracked
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Help! Plastic in keyhole cracked
Hey guys, let me try to describe what happened.
Recently, I noticed that the plastic piece that lies within the door's keyhole has cracked. Yesterday, when I went to my car to unlock it, a small piece of the plastic broke off and got semi-lodged into the keyhole itself... (passenger side door)
Does anyone have experience with this type of problem? I can still get in and out of the car through the driver's side but the driver's side is cracking as well and I'm concerned that the plastic will break off and lodge that keyhole as well.
Can that portion of the door be replaced?? I dunno how I would go about doing it... damn cheap plastics
please help
Mike
Recently, I noticed that the plastic piece that lies within the door's keyhole has cracked. Yesterday, when I went to my car to unlock it, a small piece of the plastic broke off and got semi-lodged into the keyhole itself... (passenger side door)
Does anyone have experience with this type of problem? I can still get in and out of the car through the driver's side but the driver's side is cracking as well and I'm concerned that the plastic will break off and lodge that keyhole as well.
Can that portion of the door be replaced?? I dunno how I would go about doing it... damn cheap plastics
please help
Mike
#4
Don't worry be happy...
iTrader: (1)
I fabbed my own a few years back...
I disassembled the whole piece so I was only holding the key hole in my hand. Got a red marker and proceded to "paint it".
Still wet I pressed it against a thin film of white plastic (home depot sells them) so it left an imprint.
Then I just cut it out and stuck in the key hole. Tada! Just make sure you don't lose that little spring that holds the flap open. Start tearing it apart and it will make more sense.
I disassembled the whole piece so I was only holding the key hole in my hand. Got a red marker and proceded to "paint it".
Still wet I pressed it against a thin film of white plastic (home depot sells them) so it left an imprint.
Then I just cut it out and stuck in the key hole. Tada! Just make sure you don't lose that little spring that holds the flap open. Start tearing it apart and it will make more sense.
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#9
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Here's a copy of someone else's write-up that I used when repairing my own door lock cover. I'm sorry, but I don't have the author's name any longer.
************************************************** **
Only replace translucent flap!
While I was replacing my broken driver’s door handle, I fixed the key flap. Rob Robinette's page only describes part of the procedure. First off, you need to remove the door handle. Then unclip (1) the lock cylinder wire retainer, (2) the small light bulb, (3) the other electrical wire, and (4) the small orange rubber clip to free the lock rod. Then slip the lock cylinder out from the back.
Bring your lock cylinder to a clean place, and remove the polished metal cover from the front of the cylinder by sticking a very small screwdriver under the rim where the tiny fasteners are located. Then remove the black metal keyhole slit. Behind this are a small spring and the broken flap. (My broken flap was gone- disintegrated!) Find a piece of translucent hard plastic and shape it (w/ jigsaw/razor blade/ sand paper) to a rectangle with two small nipples that fit into the small hinge indents inside the lock. After the plastic is shaped, place the short end of the spring in the tiny hole and place the shaped plastic on top. Hold the black metal key slit over the flap tightly and test the flap with the key. Reshape plastic if necessary.
To replace the whole door handle, one additional orange clip needs to be removed to free the latch rod and the door panel must be removed to unplug the 2- foot electrical plug hard-wired to the handle.
Just reverse order to replace. Now the lock light finally works properly again!!
************************************************** ************
PS - If the small lamp inside the driver's door lock has failed, this is the time to replace it, too! Be prepared to be disappointed trying to find a correctly sized replacement, though. After much searching I found the a vary close match available from www.mouser.com as their part number 606-CM2182 for only $0.53 each. This is the ONLY bulb that I ever found that also had leads attached just like the OEM. The attached photo shows the old failed orignal, top, and the mouser replacement, below.
************************************************** **
Only replace translucent flap!
While I was replacing my broken driver’s door handle, I fixed the key flap. Rob Robinette's page only describes part of the procedure. First off, you need to remove the door handle. Then unclip (1) the lock cylinder wire retainer, (2) the small light bulb, (3) the other electrical wire, and (4) the small orange rubber clip to free the lock rod. Then slip the lock cylinder out from the back.
Bring your lock cylinder to a clean place, and remove the polished metal cover from the front of the cylinder by sticking a very small screwdriver under the rim where the tiny fasteners are located. Then remove the black metal keyhole slit. Behind this are a small spring and the broken flap. (My broken flap was gone- disintegrated!) Find a piece of translucent hard plastic and shape it (w/ jigsaw/razor blade/ sand paper) to a rectangle with two small nipples that fit into the small hinge indents inside the lock. After the plastic is shaped, place the short end of the spring in the tiny hole and place the shaped plastic on top. Hold the black metal key slit over the flap tightly and test the flap with the key. Reshape plastic if necessary.
To replace the whole door handle, one additional orange clip needs to be removed to free the latch rod and the door panel must be removed to unplug the 2- foot electrical plug hard-wired to the handle.
Just reverse order to replace. Now the lock light finally works properly again!!
************************************************** ************
PS - If the small lamp inside the driver's door lock has failed, this is the time to replace it, too! Be prepared to be disappointed trying to find a correctly sized replacement, though. After much searching I found the a vary close match available from www.mouser.com as their part number 606-CM2182 for only $0.53 each. This is the ONLY bulb that I ever found that also had leads attached just like the OEM. The attached photo shows the old failed orignal, top, and the mouser replacement, below.
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