Help, my downpipe turns bright red
#1
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Help, my downpipe turns bright red
Where my Downpipe meets the rest of the engine it becomes bright red when my car is running for a minute? I have been told I need a new computer? Can anybody help me
#7
How do I made boost?
It is restrictive, rescriction allows the heat to absorb into the pipe. If it is clogged it will be even more restrictive and thats bad. Worst case scenario they can break up and clog the main cat causing the exhaust to be blocked off completely, this very is bad.
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#10
Old and grumpy
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There seems to be a lot of misleading info in this thread!
First of all, what mods do you have?
Are you talking about the stock pre-cat glowing, or do you have an aftermarket downpipe that is glowing?
If your aftermarket downpipe is glowing, it could be that your main cat under the car is clogged. This happened to me before on my old FD. I bought a used, low mileage main cat and the problem was solved.
The downpipe should NEVER glow red if the car is just sitting.
First of all, what mods do you have?
Are you talking about the stock pre-cat glowing, or do you have an aftermarket downpipe that is glowing?
If your aftermarket downpipe is glowing, it could be that your main cat under the car is clogged. This happened to me before on my old FD. I bought a used, low mileage main cat and the problem was solved.
The downpipe should NEVER glow red if the car is just sitting.
#11
Originally Posted by rx speed
my engine blew when my pre-heater got clogged. Car wasn't running right, opened the hood, pre-cat was glowing red and motor was blown.
~Ramy
#12
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ditch the main cat while you're at it
no matter what kick *** super unobtanium cat you think you have now, it will be toast within a couple of years with 11.5 AFR @ 1400F
resonated midpipe, heh heh....the car sounds downright mean with that, and the Pettit cat-back
I'm getting ready to terrify some rice very soon
no matter what kick *** super unobtanium cat you think you have now, it will be toast within a couple of years with 11.5 AFR @ 1400F
resonated midpipe, heh heh....the car sounds downright mean with that, and the Pettit cat-back
I'm getting ready to terrify some rice very soon
#13
ArmitageFD3S
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If you still have AWS it will cause the downpipe (straight thru one not the pre-cat) to glow red as the AWS was designed to heat up the pre cat right away. It scared the **** out of me the first time I noticed it too. Now I always start my car in gear so the AWS doesn't come on.
#14
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Originally Posted by ArmitageGVR4
If you still have AWS it will cause the downpipe (straight thru one not the pre-cat) to glow red as the AWS was designed to heat up the pre cat right away. It scared the **** out of me the first time I noticed it too. Now I always start my car in gear so the AWS doesn't come on.
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Dont laugh, what is a AWS. ANd to the questions earlier, everything in my car is stock. I guess I need to ditch the precat from what I am reading, So do I put it back on for emissions?
#17
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
no you don't need to put it back on for emissions. Just make sure your car is warmed up or still idling before you take the test.
Also, you might want to spend some time reading the FAQ's (Stickies) on the top of this forum as this has been discussed before. I would focus on the "reliability upgrades".
AWS - "Automatic or Automated Warm Start" where the engine revs up to 3000rpm to warm up the precat.
Also, you might want to spend some time reading the FAQ's (Stickies) on the top of this forum as this has been discussed before. I would focus on the "reliability upgrades".
AWS - "Automatic or Automated Warm Start" where the engine revs up to 3000rpm to warm up the precat.
#18
Lets Go Hokies!
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Originally Posted by rickylil
Dont laugh, what is a AWS. ANd to the questions earlier, everything in my car is stock. I guess I need to ditch the precat from what I am reading, So do I put it back on for emissions?
AWS = auto warm-up system (maybe? I don't remember what it stands for). When you start the car in neutral it revs to 3000 RPM and stays there for a bit to get everything up to operating temp. faster. It will start normally if you crank it over in 1st gear.
*edit* Damn, too slow
#19
Rotary Freak
Originally Posted by FDNewbie
This is one of the major reasons the FD was not continued in US markets. The precat clogged too often, causing premature motor failure, yet Mazda had trouble passing emissions w/o the preact. So long story short, SAVE YOUR MOTOR. DITCH THE PRECAT.
~Ramy
~Ramy
#20
Racecar - Formula 2000
AWS = Accelerated Warm-up System
#22
Originally Posted by FDNewbie
Me too
These are all just possibilities though and the only ones who really know are the Mazda design and test engineers. For all I know, the RX-8 may even have a pre-cat.....but I could see where it would be possible to engineer one out of the equation though.
#23
Moderator
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Originally Posted by Improved FD
ditch the main cat while you're at it
YZF, it not's nice to set someone up for motor-blowing boost problems without at least a LITTLE warning.
Rickylil, there are several reasons why the precat or downpipe can get very hot:
1) super-rich AFRs, often caused by a leaky injector
2) a clogged main cat or precat. If the precat is original, replace that first with a downpipe. If the main cat is clogged, then replace it with another stock main cat. A clogged cat or precat will have loose stuff inside that shakes out when you remove the cat from the car.
If you open it up and install a through pipe or high-flow cat, you should have a boost gauge installed and carefully observe the boost levels. The midpipe is known for causing boost to creep above maximum settings, and it can even happen with some high-flow cats. Run a search for 'boost creep' before going to any kind of full exhaust.
Dave
Last edited by dgeesaman; 04-17-06 at 08:05 PM.
#24
Originally Posted by fsae_alum
The pre-cat is used to aid the main cat while the engine is cold. This is why you can still pass emmissions with the pre-cat replaced with a downpipe as long as your engine is warmed up.
~Ramy