HELP! My Car sounds like 93BlackFD's bridgeport
#1
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HELP! My Car sounds like 93BlackFD's bridgeport
OK...at idle my car has these "pulses" in the exhaust. Slower than the ones in 93blackfd's video, but of course my idle is about 850 compared to his 1500 in the video. The pulses disappear when the idle is above 1000 or so (as in when the car is cold). Seems to drive smoothly. Power seems about the same too. Peak knock is around 19 or so. Starts easy warm or cold. Maybe a little vibration at idle with the pulses. These are definately new. Vaccum is down from -16 to about -14. Got into some big boost on accident with the cold weather 1.29 kg/cm^2 and the symptoms started thereafter. Someone suggested maybe a sticking side seal. Does this require a rebuild?
#4
Yes if your side seal is stuck or w/e you need to take apart the motor, but i dont know how you would be able to know if it was that or not. I would try a compression test, see what happens, might be just a vaccum leak. If compression is good, try to find a vaccum leak, and if that doesnt work, then you got me.
One question, can you post or show me where to get 93blackfd's vid, i never got to see it.thanks
One question, can you post or show me where to get 93blackfd's vid, i never got to see it.thanks
#5
Hmmmm
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its right here
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=269567
lol it was on the front page of the 3rd gen section, otherwise with the thread, i cannot help much cuz i'm not a guru at rotaries, i knwo my fair amount and still learning
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=269567
lol it was on the front page of the 3rd gen section, otherwise with the thread, i cannot help much cuz i'm not a guru at rotaries, i knwo my fair amount and still learning
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#9
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If it is a sticking side seal, you can try the good old ATF trick:
Put about a quater of a cup of automatic transmission fluid into each rotor housing through the leading plug holes, put the plugs back in, (with the circuit opening relay pulled) crank the engine over a few times, and then go away for a day or two, come back and crank her up, run the crap out of it to clean the ATF out, assure your neighbors that nothing is on fire, and see if your problem is fixed.
First thing first, check your compression. If the compression is good, then that probably isn't your problem. Oh, and always change your oil after the ATF trick.
Put about a quater of a cup of automatic transmission fluid into each rotor housing through the leading plug holes, put the plugs back in, (with the circuit opening relay pulled) crank the engine over a few times, and then go away for a day or two, come back and crank her up, run the crap out of it to clean the ATF out, assure your neighbors that nothing is on fire, and see if your problem is fixed.
First thing first, check your compression. If the compression is good, then that probably isn't your problem. Oh, and always change your oil after the ATF trick.
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Thanks for the reply Danny. I was going to ask about the atf trick. I might try that. I was wondering...how does a seal get stuck anyway? I have heard that with 3mm if the rotors are not clearanced properly the seals can "float" . I also have heard that at high boost the motor twists (the reason for dowel pinning). I was thinking that if either of these two things is the reason my seal got stuck, pinched, or whatever, then ATF would not help.
#12
thats not paint....
Originally posted by weaklink
Well....what did you find?
Well....what did you find?
All seals which came out were in usable condition
120psi on the front even and 100 on the rear even last time I checked, it slowly got worse though.
But it was exactly like you are describing. When it was cranking it was even skipping like a broken motor. My vacuum dropped a little at idle. The car still had power though above 1000rpms.
Try the ATF/water trick posted above, I wish I thought it was a carbon problem before I took it apart. After the compression test though I pretty much knew it was comming apart.
Good luck,
Chris
Last edited by 7-sins; 02-09-04 at 07:31 PM.
#13
Originally posted by weaklink
Regarding the compression test...the only place I know to take it is the Mazda dealer....
Regarding the compression test...the only place I know to take it is the Mazda dealer....
#16
thats not paint....
To test just pull out one plug, L or T, disconnect fuel or what have you. Have a friend crank the car and watch the needle pulse. You’re looking for consistency and also no difference than 20psi from the front rotor readings and rear readings.
#19
built my own engine
yep, straight through
not sure which greddy it is, i thought it was the power extreme
http://www.mazdatrix.com/e93-95.htm
you tell me, that's where it came from
steve@gotham set me up with his "secret" exhaust ports
maybe that's the diff?
not sure which greddy it is, i thought it was the power extreme
http://www.mazdatrix.com/e93-95.htm
you tell me, that's where it came from
steve@gotham set me up with his "secret" exhaust ports
maybe that's the diff?
Last edited by 93BlackFD; 02-09-04 at 11:37 PM.
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Originally posted by weaklink
Thanks for the reply Danny. I was going to ask about the atf trick. I might try that. I was wondering...how does a seal get stuck anyway? I have heard that with 3mm if the rotors are not clearanced properly the seals can "float" . I also have heard that at high boost the motor twists (the reason for dowel pinning). I was thinking that if either of these two things is the reason my seal got stuck, pinched, or whatever, then ATF would not help.
Thanks for the reply Danny. I was going to ask about the atf trick. I might try that. I was wondering...how does a seal get stuck anyway? I have heard that with 3mm if the rotors are not clearanced properly the seals can "float" . I also have heard that at high boost the motor twists (the reason for dowel pinning). I was thinking that if either of these two things is the reason my seal got stuck, pinched, or whatever, then ATF would not help.
#24
Rotary Enthusiast
Re: HELP! My Car sounds like 93BlackFD's bridgeport
Originally posted by weaklink
OK...at idle my car has these "pulses" in the exhaust. Slower than the ones in 93blackfd's video, but of course my idle is about 850 compared to his 1500 in the video. The pulses disappear when the idle is above 1000 or so (as in when the car is cold). Seems to drive smoothly. Power seems about the same too. Peak knock is around 19 or so. Starts easy warm or cold. Maybe a little vibration at idle with the pulses. These are definately new. Vaccum is down from -16 to about -14. Got into some big boost on accident with the cold weather 1.29 kg/cm^2 and the symptoms started thereafter. Someone suggested maybe a sticking side seal. Does this require a rebuild?
OK...at idle my car has these "pulses" in the exhaust. Slower than the ones in 93blackfd's video, but of course my idle is about 850 compared to his 1500 in the video. The pulses disappear when the idle is above 1000 or so (as in when the car is cold). Seems to drive smoothly. Power seems about the same too. Peak knock is around 19 or so. Starts easy warm or cold. Maybe a little vibration at idle with the pulses. These are definately new. Vaccum is down from -16 to about -14. Got into some big boost on accident with the cold weather 1.29 kg/cm^2 and the symptoms started thereafter. Someone suggested maybe a sticking side seal. Does this require a rebuild?
I have a movie of the car, when it had the strange sound. Will try and get it on a server so u can hear it.
JT
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Yes I changed the plugs right away, hoping for a quick easy fix. No such luck. Funny thing is I never had knock over 69 on the the day in question and usually it is never over 19-21. WB 02 is and was pegged at <10.5 at WOT. I guess I will try to get a hold of a compression tester. I have driven the car several times since then, but it stays the same. Incidently I had filled up that day and premixed 8oz instead of 4 because I was going to turn the boost up to 1.2. I thought maybe I had a clogged injector, so I ran a tank of clean premium through, but no change.