Help me guess my hp on my new setup
#1
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Help me guess my hp on my new setup
Excuse me if i forget a mod or so ill see if i can remember everything .I'm having my motor street ported by Steve at smg racing so i'm very confident in the motor . mods are pfc, 3inch exhaust with a hks cat back, greddy front mount, aero 340 pump, 550/1600 inj, and upgraded rail, act 6puck with a extreme plate , greddy elbow( don't think that will help to much), pulleys , no ac or air pump of coarse , t78 twin scroll, greddy manifold and greddy waste gate, and meth .
hp on just 93
hp on race gas
and hp and race gas and meth
hp on just 93
hp on race gas
and hp and race gas and meth
#4
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400whp. That's all I would trust your mods to, it also depends a lot on who is doing your tuning and if you actually want the motor to last.
The information you've provided is sparse at best and makes it sound like you just slapped a single turbo onto an otherwise stock(ish) car.
I think that 450whp would be the (reliable) upper limit on your injectors, and it seems like you're missing a lot of supporting mods.
But randomly asking for projected whp values is silly. Dyno numbers are just numbers, i could throw race gas in mine and tune to 35psi to hit 600whp+ on the dyno, but I wouldn't expect the engine to last more than 15-20k like that (and I've got about $12,000 into my current motor and fuel system with free labor).
Get the car tuned for reliability and driveability on YOUR setup and forget about an empty dyno number.
The information you've provided is sparse at best and makes it sound like you just slapped a single turbo onto an otherwise stock(ish) car.
I think that 450whp would be the (reliable) upper limit on your injectors, and it seems like you're missing a lot of supporting mods.
But randomly asking for projected whp values is silly. Dyno numbers are just numbers, i could throw race gas in mine and tune to 35psi to hit 600whp+ on the dyno, but I wouldn't expect the engine to last more than 15-20k like that (and I've got about $12,000 into my current motor and fuel system with free labor).
Get the car tuned for reliability and driveability on YOUR setup and forget about an empty dyno number.
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Yeah i understand what i asked dynos are all very different. I did leave out a lot of the motor stuff. Steve at smg racing is one of the best around for building and tuning . But i was right where u guys are 450ish would be plenty.
but fendamonky what supporting mods did u have in mind
but fendamonky what supporting mods did u have in mind
#7
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Are you running any kind of spark amplifier? New/upgraded coils? Still using your stock MAP sensor? Any kind of boost control? You said "meth" but were unclear on whether that is a water/meth injection system, or if you're simply pouring it into your tank.
How about monitoring your engine health, are you tracking your AFRs or pressures (fuel/Oil) at all? Do you have anything in place that will let you monitor your EGTs while mapping?
Fuel wise, you have an aftermarket pump and larger secondaries. Do you have an upgraded FPR? Are you still running the OEM injectors ('70s technology iirc)?
Making power is relatively easy (just crank up the boost and hope for the best), but making power and retaining reliability is a bit different.
On my car, I have built for 600whp. My setup should EASILY be able to hit that mark. Even so I'll only be pushing about 400whp once my break-in is complete. I say 400 because that's about as low as I can go (my WG spring has me running 13.5-14psi of boost, which was 405whp on my previous motor). If I could run lower power I probably would.
My reasoning for wanting to keep it lower is because I'm still running a PFC. At this point I believe that my ECU is the limiting factor in my build. Yeah... there are plenty of people who are comfortable with the PFC and they can, and will, tune it well above where I'll be sitting at. Personally I don't trust the ECU though, I think that it is very old technology and it was designed with twin turbos running at, or below, 400whp in mind.
Also, some other things to consider... You're touching on "go fast" mods in your engine build, but what about the car as a whole? Is it balanced out in how you've upgraded the power with handling, braking, replacing (20 year) worn OEM parts that have gone to **** due to age and use?
At the least I would add:
Ignition (can yours handle it without breaking up in the higher rpms?)
Water/Meth injection
Boost control (unless you just want to run WG pressure, than no worries)
Monitoring of critical systems
Upgraded MAP sensor
Also, why did you get rid of the power steering? Is this a dedicated track car?
How about monitoring your engine health, are you tracking your AFRs or pressures (fuel/Oil) at all? Do you have anything in place that will let you monitor your EGTs while mapping?
Fuel wise, you have an aftermarket pump and larger secondaries. Do you have an upgraded FPR? Are you still running the OEM injectors ('70s technology iirc)?
Making power is relatively easy (just crank up the boost and hope for the best), but making power and retaining reliability is a bit different.
On my car, I have built for 600whp. My setup should EASILY be able to hit that mark. Even so I'll only be pushing about 400whp once my break-in is complete. I say 400 because that's about as low as I can go (my WG spring has me running 13.5-14psi of boost, which was 405whp on my previous motor). If I could run lower power I probably would.
My reasoning for wanting to keep it lower is because I'm still running a PFC. At this point I believe that my ECU is the limiting factor in my build. Yeah... there are plenty of people who are comfortable with the PFC and they can, and will, tune it well above where I'll be sitting at. Personally I don't trust the ECU though, I think that it is very old technology and it was designed with twin turbos running at, or below, 400whp in mind.
Also, some other things to consider... You're touching on "go fast" mods in your engine build, but what about the car as a whole? Is it balanced out in how you've upgraded the power with handling, braking, replacing (20 year) worn OEM parts that have gone to **** due to age and use?
At the least I would add:
Ignition (can yours handle it without breaking up in the higher rpms?)
Water/Meth injection
Boost control (unless you just want to run WG pressure, than no worries)
Monitoring of critical systems
Upgraded MAP sensor
Also, why did you get rid of the power steering? Is this a dedicated track car?
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#8
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Very well said . I'll see what I can answer
all new ignition coils with new ngk's and wires so I'm hoping to keep the ignition stock for now .
And the meth not sure was gonna wait maybe a few thousand miles after the build to decide on a kit .
I also have a greedy electronic boost controller and turbo timer
And yeah got the upgraded map too
But on top of that I have apex Fully adjustable suspension with ebc pads and all new d/s rotors and new wheel bearings , bigger sway bars , and all the gauges to go with it lol
all new ignition coils with new ngk's and wires so I'm hoping to keep the ignition stock for now .
And the meth not sure was gonna wait maybe a few thousand miles after the build to decide on a kit .
I also have a greedy electronic boost controller and turbo timer
And yeah got the upgraded map too
But on top of that I have apex Fully adjustable suspension with ebc pads and all new d/s rotors and new wheel bearings , bigger sway bars , and all the gauges to go with it lol
#11
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (52)
Stock ignition will start to break up around 350-400whp. New coils are a good start, but you will need an amplifier. The HKS Twinpower is a great solution for the stock coils. Beyond that, its time to look at a different ECU with 4 separate triggers and upgraded coils.
I highly recommend NGK Race plugs. You can run all 9's of sock plugs until around 400whp, but beyond that, I move to 10's or 10.5 Race plugs. AI also plays a big role in the importance of ignition strength.
A 3" exhaust begins to get very inefficient above 450whp. I am learning this hard fact myself. If you plan to put down larger numbers, consider moving to a 3.5 or 4".
If your Aeromotive Stealth isn't rewired, it needs to be. They have been proven to 500whp, but it definitely needs plenty of voltage to do so.
T78 should make around 400whp on 15psi with 93 pump. That is pretty much the safe limit for all conditions.
Beyond that, you need to look at the compressor map to calculate max lbs of flow and a given efficiency range. Spend some time reading the Sticky Threads in the Single Turbo section. Race gas and meth are only ways to achieve maximum output of a given setup. The turbo will only flow so much air, and deliver so much power. You can realistically max out a setup with either. You simply need the proper supporting mods to get you there.
I highly recommend NGK Race plugs. You can run all 9's of sock plugs until around 400whp, but beyond that, I move to 10's or 10.5 Race plugs. AI also plays a big role in the importance of ignition strength.
A 3" exhaust begins to get very inefficient above 450whp. I am learning this hard fact myself. If you plan to put down larger numbers, consider moving to a 3.5 or 4".
If your Aeromotive Stealth isn't rewired, it needs to be. They have been proven to 500whp, but it definitely needs plenty of voltage to do so.
T78 should make around 400whp on 15psi with 93 pump. That is pretty much the safe limit for all conditions.
Beyond that, you need to look at the compressor map to calculate max lbs of flow and a given efficiency range. Spend some time reading the Sticky Threads in the Single Turbo section. Race gas and meth are only ways to achieve maximum output of a given setup. The turbo will only flow so much air, and deliver so much power. You can realistically max out a setup with either. You simply need the proper supporting mods to get you there.
#12
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Ill deff keep that in mind for sure on the ignition part.
But what did u mean by automotive stealth ?? I did rewire the harness and fix any issues's
But what did u mean by automotive stealth ?? I did rewire the harness and fix any issues's
#13
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He means running a new power line to your fuel pump from the battery, not necessarily having anything to do with the engine harness (though refreshing/replacing that is also a great idea).
#14
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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You stated you have an "aero 340" pump. I assumed you meant the Aeromotive Stealth 340lph pump. As fendamonkey suggested, I am talking about rewiring the pump for additional voltage. The stock wiring is small and aged. A quick search will reveal many write-ups of this.
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o okay the guy who's building my motor told me i should get a aero 340. And never heard the full name till just then honestly. But yeah that's probably going to be next on my wiring fixes great advise thanks again guys.
i work on cars for a living and have owned 2 fd's but havent really explored the fourm yet just cause i've bee getting all the stupid crap( interior, suspension, body,) outta the way first but thanks again for the advise gonna go do some research now
i work on cars for a living and have owned 2 fd's but havent really explored the fourm yet just cause i've bee getting all the stupid crap( interior, suspension, body,) outta the way first but thanks again for the advise gonna go do some research now
#16
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o okay the guy who's building my motor told me i should get a aero 340. And never heard the full name till just then honestly. But yeah that's probably going to be next on my wiring fixes great advise thanks again guys.
i work on cars for a living and have owned 2 fd's but havent really explored the fourm yet just cause i've bee getting all the stupid crap( interior, suspension, body,) outta the way first but thanks again for the advise gonna go do some research now
i work on cars for a living and have owned 2 fd's but havent really explored the fourm yet just cause i've bee getting all the stupid crap( interior, suspension, body,) outta the way first but thanks again for the advise gonna go do some research now
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