3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.

Help me figure out this new FD I got

Old 01-30-19, 04:11 PM
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Help me figure out this new FD I got

Hey guys, I just picked up a new FD after selling my last one years ago. For all intents and purposes, I remember nothing. There are a lot of issues to address, but was hoping to get some help with direction.
I attached photos that arent great, but should help give everyone an idea of what I have to work with. It has an unknown brand intercooler in a weird semi v mount set up with an SSQV (hopefully real).
I would personally prefer the stock airbox with the cheap *** mod, along with stock bov and crv.. but this is what I have to work with.
Also equipped with poorly installed HKS(?) filters on some of the stock intake tract.

So my questions are:
-Should I toss the SSQV and actually try to restore the OEM bov and crv? If not, are there any issues with air not being recirculated to the intake?

-I dont want this intake set up as is. Would prefer a set up that's isolated and kept cool. The issue is, I don't think many of the actual isolated boxes (or stock) would fit with the intercooler set up I have. I also have absolutely no craftsman skills when it comes to fab'ing up a custom box. I know there is substantial discussion on best intake set ups, but I dont even know where to begin? Revert to stock as well? Would the box even fit? K&N filters with some kind of divider?

-Also if it turns out that I should just throw on some K&N filters, make some kind of divider or buy a box, and keep the SSQV, what should I do with the spots where the airpump, bov and crv came from? Theres a breather coming from what I believe is the intake manifold. The airpump is just opened up and some bolts are shoved into random holes with clamps...
In the photos I've circled a few spots and numbered them, can you guys help me confirm what they were connected to.

Thanks everyone, happy to be back!



Last edited by project793; 01-30-19 at 04:14 PM.
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Old 01-30-19, 04:22 PM
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Also, the head lights dont pop (checked relays and swapped them around with no luck), tires are dry rotted to ****, the driver side brake caliber bleeder is seized, and the interior has been baked turning half the plastics to peanut brittle.
So happy to have her though!


Last edited by project793; 01-30-19 at 04:30 PM.
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Old 01-30-19, 04:29 PM
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From the look of it, that's a non sequential set up. The black thing on the strut tower is a waterproof relay. Follow the wiring and it will probably lead to the fans. The bov is fine where it is and for what it is. So long as it's working there's no reason to bother it. Doing the things you said become a matter of preference at that point and since the fd is map instead of maf, not having the bov to recirc is fine. It makes no difference either way.

If you are in fact non-seq then the crv isn't needed since it's part of the seq system. I can't tell if the radiator is flipped around or not but if it is then your intakes are fine as they are. The breather is on the split air pipe and it would normally connect to the stock airbox. If you don't have any emissions testing where you are then you can delete the air pump and the acv and of the course the split air pipe. The intercooler looks alright. Not the best install but it's fine.
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Old 01-30-19, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by cr-rex View Post
From the look of it, that's a non sequential set up. The black thing on the strut tower is a waterproof relay. Follow the wiring and it will probably lead to the fans. The bov is fine where it is and for what it is. So long as it's working there's no reason to bother it. Doing the things you said become a matter of preference at that point and since the fd is map instead of maf, not having the bov to recirc is fine. It makes no difference either way.

If you are in fact non-seq then the crv isn't needed since it's part of the seq system. I can't tell if the radiator is flipped around or not but if it is then your intakes are fine as they are. The breather is on the split air pipe and it would normally connect to the stock airbox. If you don't have any emissions testing where you are then you can delete the air pump and the acv and of the course the split air pipe. The intercooler looks alright. Not the best install but it's fine.
Ok that checks off a few of the boxes. I know I do not like the non-sequential set up, so guess Ill have to research how to reverse it. The blocked off items I circled are all related to it then (aside from the air pump)? Which # spot would have been the CRV and which one would have been the factory BOV anyway?

I bought the car from someone who was actually have some work done on it at a shop. They installed larger fans and a koyo rad. So just search to determine if the fans flipped or not? I just dont want to worry about intake temps.

Regarding the breather. Based of a quick search is feeds air to the cat? I havent even looked under the car but I would get I have an aftermarket mid-pipe now. But I can check that off. Otherwise this line would run to the stock airbox as well?
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Old 01-30-19, 05:15 PM
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If it is indeed non-sequential, it looks like reversing it may not be so easy...
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Old 01-30-19, 06:00 PM
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The CRV goes from #2 to the top intake. The BOV goes from #1 to the bottom intake.

I would check under the intake manifold and see if all the solenoids are still there.
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Old 01-30-19, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by AE_Racer View Post
The CRV goes from #2 to the top intake. The BOV goes from #1 to the bottom intake.

I would check under the intake manifold and see if all the solenoids are still there.
Will do. Ill get more pictures tonight as well.
Thanks as well!
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Old 01-30-19, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by project793 View Post
Ok that checks off a few of the boxes. I know I do not like the non-sequential set up, so guess Ill have to research how to reverse it. The blocked off items I circled are all related to it then (aside from the air pump)? Which # spot would have been the CRV and which one would have been the factory BOV anyway?

I bought the car from someone who was actually have some work done on it at a shop. They installed larger fans and a koyo rad. So just search to determine if the fans flipped or not? I just dont want to worry about intake temps.

Regarding the breather. Based of a quick search is feeds air to the cat? I havent even looked under the car but I would get I have an aftermarket mid-pipe now. But I can check that off. Otherwise this line would run to the stock airbox as well?
not the fans flipped around, the radiator flipped around. As in v mount flipped around or if it's stock location. If it is flipped around then intake temps won't really be affected. The fans are pullers so all the heat will go under the car. The radiant heat is negligible. You are correct about the line that has the breather on it.
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Old 01-30-19, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by project793 View Post
Will do. Ill get more pictures tonight as well.
Thanks as well!
I just want to point out that is how my aftermarket intake is set up, it was fresh on my mind since I was just messing with them. From OEM I think the other ends of both the CRV and BOV go to the air box (one hose from each go to seperate ports on the back of the box).
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Old 01-31-19, 11:21 AM
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You guys are all awesome. Thanks for the help!!

Ok so I got a few extra pics last night. I have below a close up of the hose that would have been for the CRV. Theres an out of place allen nut, a lose rubber grommet, and smaller bracket, but Im not sure what else may be missing?

I tried to see what solenoids were missing elsewhere, but without tearing things apart (which will obviously begin soon), I only located one lose and random harness clip that I circled.

In another picture I located a vacuum hard line that is disconnected, but according to the vacuum diagram, theres actually an unsued line. Is this it?

Back to the passenger side, theres those two relays, one of which is that waterproof relay. Whats the other one for? Any ideas what may have been spliced into these guys?

And finally, on the intake elbow there's a capped off nipple for the AWS correct? Assuming this system has been deleted then? I know the solenoid is under the manifold so I cant confirm until I remove it?





Last edited by project793; 01-31-19 at 11:26 AM.
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Old 01-31-19, 12:16 PM
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In the first pic, the Y-pipe has had all its stuff removed for the non-sequential conversion. The Allen nut is a jam nut that is a stop for the butterfly valve that is in the pipe. The actuator for it has been removed (and the butterfly probably). The rubber grommet is for a bolt that secures the secondary turbo intake. This is WAY not needed, Mazda got rid of that in later years. I usually just chop that little ear off the secondary turbo inlet pipe.

The nipple with no hose on it is the typical "hose to nowhere", it's used on automatic FD's. Normal.

Blue connector that is circled is for the California EGR valve. Most 93's have it hanging there not used.

AWS has been blocked off, that's fine. It's a useless system. That cap on the throttle body elbow is from it being removed.

The 2 relays have "Spal" on them, they make aftermarket radiator fans. They may have rigged up their own fan control system or replaced the fans with non-stock ones. If the fans aren't stock, they probably suck. Stock fans work really damn well.

Dale
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Old 01-31-19, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by DaleClark View Post
In the first pic, the Y-pipe has had all its stuff removed for the non-sequential conversion. The Allen nut is a jam nut that is a stop for the butterfly valve that is in the pipe. The actuator for it has been removed (and the butterfly probably). The rubber grommet is for a bolt that secures the secondary turbo intake. This is WAY not needed, Mazda got rid of that in later years. I usually just chop that little ear off the secondary turbo inlet pipe.

The nipple with no hose on it is the typical "hose to nowhere", it's used on automatic FD's. Normal.

Blue connector that is circled is for the California EGR valve. Most 93's have it hanging there not used.

AWS has been blocked off, that's fine. It's a useless system. That cap on the throttle body elbow is from it being removed.

The 2 relays have "Spal" on them, they make aftermarket radiator fans. They may have rigged up their own fan control system or replaced the fans with non-stock ones. If the fans aren't stock, they probably suck. Stock fans work really damn well.

Dale
Awesome!
Thanks for all the info.
So in short, just stick with many (many many) lists that detail how to get this guy safe and reliable? Otherwise what Im looking at isnt too bad, other than swapping the filters themselves and making sure these aftermarket fans keep everything cool?
I was pretty afraid of the non-sequential set up as I really do just want the car mostly stock, but it seems pretty senseless to try and reverse it all.
Im also guessing this was the "poor-mans" set up so I should eventually redo it correctly?
Thanks
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Old 01-31-19, 12:57 PM
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It's hard to say how far they went going non-sequential. There's a zillion ways to do it. I will say a good working sequential system is a wonderful thing - nice, fat power band with great low-end grunt.

Let the car tell you what it needs. Tires? Brakes? Interior? Paint? Sometimes we get so wrapped up in doing some mod or changing something on the car and the car is trying to tell you what you need to focus on.

Do you have a good temperature gauge? With that setup I would keep an eye on cooling to make sure it's on point. Sometimes people hack together a system that seems good in theory but doesn't work right in practice.

Dale
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Old 01-31-19, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by DaleClark View Post
It's hard to say how far they went going non-sequential. There's a zillion ways to do it. I will say a good working sequential system is a wonderful thing - nice, fat power band with great low-end grunt.

Let the car tell you what it needs. Tires? Brakes? Interior? Paint? Sometimes we get so wrapped up in doing some mod or changing something on the car and the car is trying to tell you what you need to focus on.

Do you have a good temperature gauge? With that setup I would keep an eye on cooling to make sure it's on point. Sometimes people hack together a system that seems good in theory but doesn't work right in practice.

Dale
I'm actually not looking to mod it much more than what it needs to be reliable: Cooling, cooling, and more cooling.
I have faster cars, and am not looking for speed here. I would prefer the sequential set up but it seems that trying to reverse this might be a PITA... I know I f'n hated the non-sequential set up on the 2jzgte that people thought was good for no reason.

I brought the car home on Friday without even boosting it as I have very little background on it. I have a set of gauges that will be going to to keep an eye on oil pressure, temp, water temp, and boost. Was also thinking about throwing in a wide band I have as well.
Im in the processing of getting a PFC and commander from a member here. I want boost to stay at 10 lbs as well.

The car has that hks catback and I believe midpipe. Not sure why it doesnt have a downpipe yet, so that's on the list. I'm concerned about boost levels with the catback. I dont want to lean out as well.

There's an FC thermostat already installed and these larger fans.
For the most part this thread wasnt to have direction for mods to go fast, but rather make sure whats installed will suffice or if I should be replacing this stuff / going back to oem.

I have your vaccum line guide and many others saved for example so Im trying to get my priorities straight.

Thanks again for the tips and help
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Old 01-31-19, 03:05 PM
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Sure thing. If the turbo manifold wasn't modified - turbo control door is still there, precontrol door is still there - getting sequential working wouldn't be too bad. Source parts over time and put things back together. It really would be worth it.

Good luck with the car!

Dale
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Old 01-31-19, 03:18 PM
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Thanks!
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Old 01-31-19, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by project793 View Post
I'm actually not looking to mod it much more than what it needs to be reliable: Cooling, cooling, and more cooling.
I have faster cars, and am not looking for speed here. I would prefer the sequential set up but it seems that trying to reverse this might be a PITA... I know I f'n hated the non-sequential set up on the 2jzgte that people thought was good for no reason.

I brought the car home on Friday without even boosting it as I have very little background on it. I have a set of gauges that will be going to to keep an eye on oil pressure, temp, water temp, and boost. Was also thinking about throwing in a wide band I have as well.
Im in the processing of getting a PFC and commander from a member here. I want boost to stay at 10 lbs as well.

The car has that hks catback and I believe midpipe. Not sure why it doesnt have a downpipe yet, so that's on the list. I'm concerned about boost levels with the catback. I dont want to lean out as well.

There's an FC thermostat already installed and these larger fans.
For the most part this thread wasnt to have direction for mods to go fast, but rather make sure whats installed will suffice or if I should be replacing this stuff / going back to oem.

I have your vaccum line guide and many others saved for example so Im trying to get my priorities straight.

Thanks again for the tips and help
Heh when I got my Supra it had stu hagen twins set up nonsequentially...horrible! Instead of reversing it...I just went single turbo
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Old 01-31-19, 10:17 PM
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I saw your screen name when I clicked the thread and thought “uh oh, I made a ttc guy angry” haha. But yeah I just dont get it!
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Old 02-01-19, 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by project793 View Post
I saw your screen name when I clicked the thread and thought “uh oh, I made a ttc guy angry” haha. But yeah I just dont get it!
TTC blows! It's like the ghetto way to get a higher peak horsepower number, with all the lag and none of the power.
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Old 02-11-19, 11:12 AM
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Ok guys I have another weird (to me at least) one for you.
Im getting ready to install a pfc and was examining everything down by the ecu when I saw this harness simply plugged into itself.


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Old 02-11-19, 11:45 AM
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That is the fan recall harness - do some searching on that. Looks like someone basically disabled that harness, no big loss.

Dale
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Old 02-11-19, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by DaleClark View Post
That is the fan recall harness - do some searching on that. Looks like someone basically disabled that harness, no big loss.

Dale
Its weird that when I have a question, get an answer, and search this new information, you manage to have a thread about it:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-906142/page3/

How much to have you oncall 24/7? Haha

And Im assuming it was disabled due to the aforementioned aftermarket fan relays?

Edit: Just read that thread a bit more. I have the FC thermoswitch installed along with a downpipe. I can simply delete this harness?
Thanks

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Old 02-11-19, 12:46 PM
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Yep, you can remove it. The system is terrible IMHO, just a hack Mazda put in to try and get under hood temps under control. Proper fan control and not having a precat will do that for you.

There's more than once I have searched for some bit of information and found an old thread I wrote with the info I need. It's for my use too .

That harness has 2 blue plugs, 2 white plugs, and one ground wire all going to a small black plastic box. That whole thing can be removed. The existing blue and white plugs going to the ECU harness need to be plugged in to each other.

It may just be a case of someone was putting the harness back in the car and didn't know what they were doing and just plugged them in to whatever they found. I've seen that before, it's confusing looking if you don't know that recall harness is there.

Dale
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Old 02-11-19, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by DaleClark View Post
Yep, you can remove it. The system is terrible IMHO, just a hack Mazda put in to try and get under hood temps under control. Proper fan control and not having a precat will do that for you.

There's more than once I have searched for some bit of information and found an old thread I wrote with the info I need. It's for my use too .

That harness has 2 blue plugs, 2 white plugs, and one ground wire all going to a small black plastic box. That whole thing can be removed. The existing blue and white plugs going to the ECU harness need to be plugged in to each other.

It may just be a case of someone was putting the harness back in the car and didn't know what they were doing and just plugged them in to whatever they found. I've seen that before, it's confusing looking if you don't know that recall harness is there.

Dale
Awesome. Thanks for the help again
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