Way to figure out what shafts and diff I got
Way to figure out what shafts and diff I got
Evening all (for Europe).
I got a real bastard (as in a mix) of a car:
88 Vert
89-92 Turbo engine
And some shafts and diff and so on.
My problem is, I want a new diff, as the one I got is either worn out or open.
Are there any tell-tale signs that can say if I got open or LSD, 86-88 ot 89-92, what shafts I got and so on?
My plan was the internals of a FD torsen one in my (presumably) open S4-diff, but as my car is a mix of everything, I can't know for sure.
Jim, Norway
I got a real bastard (as in a mix) of a car:
88 Vert
89-92 Turbo engine
And some shafts and diff and so on.
My problem is, I want a new diff, as the one I got is either worn out or open.
Are there any tell-tale signs that can say if I got open or LSD, 86-88 ot 89-92, what shafts I got and so on?
My plan was the internals of a FD torsen one in my (presumably) open S4-diff, but as my car is a mix of everything, I can't know for sure.
Jim, Norway
jack up one side of the rear of the car, leave the tranny in neutral and spin the tire, if it spins very freely then you have an open diff, if it has some resistance where you have to try and force it to spin then you have a LSD that may be tired depending on how much force it takes to spin.
make sure you do it on level road and use wheel chocks.
an LSD diff should have a tag on the fill plug, if it has a turbo transmission(it will have a bolt on bottom cover on the tranny) then it requires a modified driveshaft to fit the non turbo differential with removable u-joints versus the all stock, staked, unservicable u-joints.
make sure you do it on level road and use wheel chocks.
an LSD diff should have a tag on the fill plug, if it has a turbo transmission(it will have a bolt on bottom cover on the tranny) then it requires a modified driveshaft to fit the non turbo differential with removable u-joints versus the all stock, staked, unservicable u-joints.
Thanks for coming back to me so fast.
I will get my roadworthiness test when I get my front shocks (ordered rear ones from Mazdatrix lol. Long way to Norway). I will get the car up so I can take pics for you, so I can get a second opinion.
Say that I got a worn out clutch type or viscous one, what is the easiest and cheapest way to get a proper LSD (all works except viscous, don't want 60k km to work on only)
Jim, Norway
I will get my roadworthiness test when I get my front shocks (ordered rear ones from Mazdatrix lol. Long way to Norway). I will get the car up so I can take pics for you, so I can get a second opinion.
Say that I got a worn out clutch type or viscous one, what is the easiest and cheapest way to get a proper LSD (all works except viscous, don't want 60k km to work on only)
Jim, Norway
i haven't really seen a viscous LSD give up aside from genading internally, the clutch types usually get weak with mileage/age but can be refurbished by milling the case to tighten up the clutch packs(a cheaper alternative to paying $700 for a rebuild kit). if it is a TII diff case then you can also fit a FD torsen into it which will last the life of the car unless doing sticky launches with over 450 wheel horsepower.
Viscous are for driving up hills in the winter, not for anything else. Also, I know the Miata viscous one wear ouf after 60k km, which is nothing really. Then you need to refill oil in it and bla bla, but they never transfer the power as good as a torsen or clutch.
I heard the open diff housing of the FC could take the FD torsen one, not the TII LSD one?
I really need confirmation on what info to listen to, because I can't go buy a diff for 200$ and then throw it away.
I heard the open diff housing of the FC could take the FD torsen one, not the TII LSD one?
I really need confirmation on what info to listen to, because I can't go buy a diff for 200$ and then throw it away.
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Jeff20B
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