the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

So I've got a EWP setup with controller and no thermostat/water pump housing and no heater core lines. In place of the water pump is a block adapter with -16 AN lines.
While I'll still debating on if the -16 AN is going to cut it or if I should go with -20 or -24 AN, I'm left with no place to mount a bunch of my sensors and my turbo coolant return line.
I've got a custom 3 pass radiator that I can use to mount the following.
(1)Coolant level sensor
(2)Coolant thermosensor
(3)Coolant temp (stock)
(4)Coolant temp (aftermarket gauge)
(5)Coolant temp (electric water pump)
(6)Turbo coolant return line



With that being said, where would you choose to mount most or all of those and why?

Just looking for some input or ideas.

Erdin

can you post a picture of your coolent level sensor to help give us a idea

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

It's the stock one from the thermostat. I need a new sensor cause mine has seen better days, but I'll get some pictures. The problem is I'm using all the stock sensors (PFC). It would be nice if I could use only a couple of the sensors have them give the correct output signals.

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

Come on you know you want to!

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

Nobody heh?

Erdin

Ok, i see what you mean now, i thought you had a after market one and wanted to know ware to fit it, il look around and see if i can find a good sensor and point you in there direction. I personally have a spa dual gauge with fuel pressure and water temp in one, i fabricated it to sit in the factory dash so i dont have all these gauges every ware. hear's the site so you can have a look at them. i think if you contect them they can put somthink together for you. But be warned in two years i have had two problems on two separate occasions.

http://www.spa-uk.co.uk/design/dualgauges.asp

twokrx7

iTrader: (1)

These are just opinions ... flame suit ON.

Mount all of the temperature sensors in the fitting or line coming out of the block before the red nozzle on the rad. This way all temp sensors read the same temp so no surprises. I do agree with your choice of hot in and cold out nozzle locations on the rad illustration.

Level sensor on the tank of the rad, near the top, above the blue nozzle. They are usually conductive sensors so if below a liquid level it will read full.

Turbo outlet to the coolant outlet from the motor, tee into the line going from the block to the rad or just tap in a separate line into the top of the endtank by your red nozzle. The pump should suction off the lower blue nozzle and pump into the block.

WaLieN

This doesn't really have much to do with mounting, but have you considered having a timed relay so that the EWP/fan stays on for a short period of time after the car is shut down?

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

I vote that you ditch the thermoswitch. The PFC lets you set the fans' turn-on temps, so you should be able to safely eliminate it by grounding the connector.

More thermoswitch info here: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/regarding-fc-thermoswitch-thermosensor-505812/


-s-

GUITARJUNKIE28

anything that senses coolant temp, i'd have on the water pump housing, on the engine side of the thermostat--that's where it's going to read the hottest.

where is the pump going to go?

Kevin T. Wyum

^^^^ Yup, otherwise if the thermostat locks or becomes blocked your temps may read as acceptable while the engine is dying a horrible death.

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

I plan on having the EWP hooked up to my turbo timer. The way I will setit up, the car will be off by the EWP will continue to cycle. I also have the fan switch mod, so I can have the fans run after the car is shut off.

Awesome, I'll read up on it. Another way to clean up the harness. So I should ground it and not ditch the whole connector and wiring together?

I agree that it should be on the cool side, as I think that's how the stock setup is as well.
The pump goes on the radiator outlet between the radiator and the block.

Now that I've elimated the thermosensor that one less connector.
I can also live without an aftermarket gauge since the PFC commander will work fine for that.
I've also got the heater core inlet/outlet on the rear housing I could use if I had to.
I would mostly likely have to "T" or "Y" the turbo coolant return line with an AN T.

Would it be better to do so, right off the block, or right before it enters the radiator?

twokrx7

iTrader: (1)

Are you planning to run a t-stat? I assumed you were running a smart EWP that did not need a t-stat, that is why I suggested the temp sensors on the stream exiting the motor. Even with the pump off there will be enough thermosiphon flow to read the engine water temp.

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

No t-stat, my pump uses a controller with a temp sensor that I can adjust to run cooler or warmer.

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

Here's a link to the cooling system electrical diagram, from a thread I referenced earlier. It's huge so I'm not going to insert the photo in this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...chmentid=131481

The thermoswitch is located to the right of the fans on the diagram, labeled WATER THERMOSWITCH (FAN). Follow the line with dark purple dots, and you can see that the thermoswitch connects to Relay #3. The thermoswitch is what activates Relay #3, which will cause the fans to increase their speed. Relay #3 will not activate the fans by itself, I've tested this.


The thermoswitch is also connected to the Coolant Fan Control module, so it's possible that the Coolant Fan Control Module is activating the fans when the thermoswitch is activated. If you're using the PFC, you are going to set the fan's turn-on temps manually anyway, so this doesn't matter.


If you're looking to eliminate as much wiring as possible, you can completely eliminate Cooling Fan Relay # 3, and simply connect the Blue/Orange wire from the fans to ground. This will cause the fans to work only at MED and HI speed, you won't have low speed anymore. In my opinion, that's a good comprimise: set the fans to medium or high speed, and you shouldn't need to leave them on for such a long time.


Our OEM electrical setup does some weird things. I wonder sometimes if the engineers were in a huge rush, or if they just didn't know much.

-s-

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

Heres some progress. I ended going with -20 AN and a 26"x19"x3" triple pass (2 row) radiator. It fits nicely at a slight angle, but the botom AN fitting is going to be very close to sway bar as is the botom of the radiator. (Might have to go with a crimped fitting due to the tight radius)
I'm also not going to have much room to fab my cold air intake for my turbo or even room for a larger filter with the stock fans mounted at this point.