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Old 01-19-10, 12:14 AM
  #26  
There is no fast enough
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motor came out today so I should know how bad it is tomorrow.
another note? any idea of a good hood/ hood scoop to get cold air to the intake? right now the intercooler is out front, then the AC condensor, then the radiator with the air filter between all of that and the fron of the motor. Mike Lowe thought maybe to switch out the greddy intercoller (front mount) in favor of the stock mount version laying flat under the hood.
ANy ideas would be great!
Old 01-19-10, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by archusangellos
motor came out today so I should know how bad it is tomorrow.
another note? any idea of a good hood/ hood scoop to get cold air to the intake? right now the intercooler is out front, then the AC condensor, then the radiator with the air filter between all of that and the fron of the motor. Mike Lowe thought maybe to switch out the greddy intercoller (front mount) in favor of the stock mount version laying flat under the hood.
ANy ideas would be great!
I'd keep it as is. You are going to get heat soak with any setup and what you have is fine. The best would be a v-mount setup but that will set you back about $2,500. One of the better ways to keep everything cool is AI/water injection and I would consider doing this first versus swapping around the intercooler setup.

Also, proper ducting goes a long way to improving engine coolant temps. Make sure the car has an undertray and everything is sealed up.
Old 01-19-10, 05:57 PM
  #28  
In the Garage

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^^ I agree with David for the most part. If your builder is mostly just concerned about intake temps heat soaking then water/meth injection is a great idea. Honestly, if you plan on tracking the car as mentioned earlier you NEED water/meth injection (that is if you hope to get any sort of engine longevity)....

Another option for you is have the radiator and your current intercooler modified to create a v-mount setup. Completely possible and really fairly simple. Although I am not sure you will be able to retain the a/c but if it is a track car then who cares about a/c?? V-mount ic's are really a great choice on the FD with getting cool air to both ic and radiator.
Old 01-19-10, 08:42 PM
  #29  
dorito powered

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I also recommend water/meth injection, I've got mine sitting in my garage waiting for me to find motivation, it's just kinda hard with snow, ice, salt, and gravel on the roads.

As far as the hood I've always liked the looks of the scoot style and gt300 hoods, but they're not for everyone.
Scoot

http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/seibonst.htm
GT300/TS

http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/seibonts.htm
Old 01-19-10, 08:52 PM
  #30  
Original Gangster/Rotary!


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Personally, I think the Scoot hood is an abomination. No offense intended to those with them.

Re: cooling issues, a vented hood is *not* required as some may say. There are many different ways to skin this cat. My FD runs cool water, intake, and EGT temps with zero problems regardless of the driving conditions, at least here on the east coast
Old 01-19-10, 09:45 PM
  #31  
dorito powered

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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Personally, I think the Scoot hood is an abomination. No offense intended to those with them.
As a former design student I'm curious why you think this. I've heard this from more than a few people, but I've always thought that the hood flows fairly well with the lines of the car and somewhat serves a purpose, albeit one that can be served by other means. It is a more aggressively designed hood that seems to work on more aggressively styled rx7s.
Old 01-22-10, 10:17 PM
  #32  
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aluminium rotors................
Old 01-31-10, 10:12 PM
  #33  
There is no fast enough
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motor out and the bad news is in. lost one apex seal in the rear rotor...
Problem is the turbo caught it for me on the way out.

so:
new rotor-hand weight matched to the other, new 4088 BB turbo, some new exhaust work, ECU tuning, and about 6k and I should be back to where I started but ready to race in a few weeks.
I will be testing the new setup lightly before I start changing anything else. Once I have her running again and happy. I can start to figure out what else needs to be changed prior to racing mid year.
Thanks for all of your suggestions and I will be posting pics of the new setup shortly.
Old 02-01-10, 07:02 AM
  #34  
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Sorry about that. The turbo portion is the worst news and a bummer. I'm assuming a new rotor housing is in the mix somewhere? Also, what does "hand-weight" matched mean?
Old 02-01-10, 10:23 AM
  #35  
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Mike Lowe said that even in the same group (a,b,c..) two rotors can be several grams in difference. he said they have a balance pad that they drill out the difference from and match the rotors exactly. Sounded like weight balancing a pushrod motors crank so i assumed it was accurate.
The housing is not damaged but the slot for the apex seal in that rotor was bad.
Old 02-01-10, 11:52 AM
  #36  
Rotary Freak

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where in FL are u again ?
i have a perfect running long / short block that i am selling

see sig
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