help with injectors! 850s x4 vs 550/1600
04-11-09, 01:31 PM
#26
Rotary Enthusiast
If you're using the Power FC and the car is street driven I would very much recommend you use the stock primary injectors (550) and just upgrade the secondaries to 1300. This will give you plenty of fuel to run at least in the low 400 hp range... about the most you can do on pump gas anyway. Also, keeping the stock primary injectors makes the Power FC much easier to program and keeps a good idle/cruise quality which is important on a street car.
As to reliability... I imagine is depends on the quality injectors you get but I've been running 1300 secondaries for years on my race cars and have had no issues whatsoever.
- John Magnuson
As to reliability... I imagine is depends on the quality injectors you get but I've been running 1300 secondaries for years on my race cars and have had no issues whatsoever.
- John Magnuson
04-12-09, 12:54 PM
#29
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: LA, CA
Posts: 3,332
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
nope, just set your secondary fuel setting to 1680cc and you're good to go. I assume you also purchased resistors? If not, you will need those... do a quick search.
04-13-09, 02:32 PM
#33
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: LA, CA
Posts: 3,332
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
just a quick question.
I have 4 850CC injectors I will be running with my TD06 setup. Since I am going to start and run the car for a bit on the PFC basemap, how would you suggest I list the injector size on the PFC?
Should I get them flow tested at 50PSI, see how much they flow and list that as the CC size?
EX:.. injectors flow 1000cc worth of fuel at 50PSI, whould I then put in "1000cc" injectors in the settings on the PFC?
If I say "850cc" and run more than average base pressure, it would run really rich wouldn't it?
I have 4 850CC injectors I will be running with my TD06 setup. Since I am going to start and run the car for a bit on the PFC basemap, how would you suggest I list the injector size on the PFC?
Should I get them flow tested at 50PSI, see how much they flow and list that as the CC size?
EX:.. injectors flow 1000cc worth of fuel at 50PSI, whould I then put in "1000cc" injectors in the settings on the PFC?
If I say "850cc" and run more than average base pressure, it would run really rich wouldn't it?
04-13-09, 05:28 PM
#34
aaron_bc.... It doesn't really matter which size you put in there because you will need to get everything tuned anyways. another option is just stick with 40 psi base pressure and then turn it up to 50psi before you get it tuned. I wouldn't boost on the map without a tune either way. Unless you have a way to check the AFR's to know they are safe.
04-13-09, 09:27 PM
#35
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: LA, CA
Posts: 3,332
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That's what I was thinking anyways. I am going to run like 5PSI on the wastegate spring with the stock map until I get it tuned.
But I am going to get my injectors cleaned before they go back in anyways, so I will just ask them to to a bench test at 50PSI.
But I am going to get my injectors cleaned before they go back in anyways, so I will just ask them to to a bench test at 50PSI.
04-14-09, 01:47 AM
#37
Oh I read this: "hey im getting 1680 secondaries for my 550 primaries.." and thought that meant you were replacing the 550's with 1680s.
aaron_bc.... It doesn't really matter which size you put in there because you will need to get everything tuned anyways. another option is just stick with 40 psi base pressure and then turn it up to 50psi before you get it tuned. I wouldn't boost on the map without a tune either way. Unless you have a way to check the AFR's to know they are safe.
aaron_bc.... It doesn't really matter which size you put in there because you will need to get everything tuned anyways. another option is just stick with 40 psi base pressure and then turn it up to 50psi before you get it tuned. I wouldn't boost on the map without a tune either way. Unless you have a way to check the AFR's to know they are safe.
i just got my stuff from kgparts.. and im going to attempt this tomorrow.. my friend is kinda getting me worried about this install... i think finding the npt fittings is going to be the hardest part.. (not exactly sure where to get it from, or the fuel safe teflon) but besides that, how hard is the install? and lets say i can take the UIM with my eye closed.... whats the rating on this?
ps dudeman, what angle fittings did u use on your rails?
also can anyone confirm aarons comment regarding the pfc? all i have to do is change the injector settings to 1600 and i can drive it to my mechanics shop?
04-14-09, 02:34 AM
#38
Yeah some people use 1680 primaries. Especially guys running e85 cause they need a lot more fuel for a given power level, and the power levels they go for are usually higher due to the knock reduction of the high alcohol content.
I don't think the install is particularly hard. All the fittings I purchased at Lowes in the plumbing section except for the fuel line. The Fuel safe teflon I purchase at Lowes, it's usually used on natural gas and propane fittings. Its yellow and seems to work well with gasoline as well.
You already have the aeromotive FPR mounted which is probably the hardest part. You can probably reuse the fittings there. But I don't know what your setup looks like. I don't know if your FPR is hooked up using the old banjo fittings or just what.
When I did my fuel setup I was changing over from the stock FPR and FPD to the aeromotive, so I had to tap out the primary rail on both ends to screw my fittings in. I could have purchased the banjo adapter from Keith, but i was impatient and wanted to do it that day.
For the primary rail I used Brass 45* street L's (male and female elbows) then used brass hose barbs with male threads screwed into the 45's. This allowed me to clear the oil injectors. I then used straight brass hose barb fittings screwed into the secondary rail. Cut my hose to length and ran it just like stock. From Tank> Primary >Secondary> FPR> Return to tank. (the tank lines I used the ones already there) I also used fuel injector hose clamps from autoparts store. They are smooth and don't dig into the hose like other hose clamps.In my case I also had to make a bracket to hold my FPR. Then I soldered the resistors in and put the new injector clips on. Primed the system and checked for leaks. Set my base pressure and went out tuning the car.
If you look @ my thread called making my own WI kit you can see the brass hose barbs I used. I use them for all sorts of projects. The hardware store should have pretty much everything you need.
Yes setting the injectors to 1680 is all that needs to be done, you shouldn't really be using the secondaries on your drive to the tuner anyways. Stay off boost and just baby the car over there.
I don't think the install is particularly hard. All the fittings I purchased at Lowes in the plumbing section except for the fuel line. The Fuel safe teflon I purchase at Lowes, it's usually used on natural gas and propane fittings. Its yellow and seems to work well with gasoline as well.
You already have the aeromotive FPR mounted which is probably the hardest part. You can probably reuse the fittings there. But I don't know what your setup looks like. I don't know if your FPR is hooked up using the old banjo fittings or just what.
When I did my fuel setup I was changing over from the stock FPR and FPD to the aeromotive, so I had to tap out the primary rail on both ends to screw my fittings in. I could have purchased the banjo adapter from Keith, but i was impatient and wanted to do it that day.
For the primary rail I used Brass 45* street L's (male and female elbows) then used brass hose barbs with male threads screwed into the 45's. This allowed me to clear the oil injectors. I then used straight brass hose barb fittings screwed into the secondary rail. Cut my hose to length and ran it just like stock. From Tank> Primary >Secondary> FPR> Return to tank. (the tank lines I used the ones already there) I also used fuel injector hose clamps from autoparts store. They are smooth and don't dig into the hose like other hose clamps.In my case I also had to make a bracket to hold my FPR. Then I soldered the resistors in and put the new injector clips on. Primed the system and checked for leaks. Set my base pressure and went out tuning the car.
If you look @ my thread called making my own WI kit you can see the brass hose barbs I used. I use them for all sorts of projects. The hardware store should have pretty much everything you need.
Yes setting the injectors to 1680 is all that needs to be done, you shouldn't really be using the secondaries on your drive to the tuner anyways. Stay off boost and just baby the car over there.
04-14-09, 12:42 PM
#39
so i got my secondary rails and injectors yesterday and im gonna attempt to install them today... i have the UIM off already and looking at it im wondering, do i need block off plates? the huge brick thingy on the right side of the LIM looks like it will interfere with the secondary rails? (sorry idk what the name of it is..)
also am i going to have to remove my rats nest to fit the secondaries in?
also am i going to have to remove my rats nest to fit the secondaries in?
04-14-09, 01:20 PM
#41
yeah you need a block off plate for that (I think that's the ACV), if you aren't running the emissions systems you won't need it anymore. It looks like your air pump is gone so it's fine to remove it. I just made my own block off plates from aluminum w/ RTV under them.
04-14-09, 10:49 PM
#46
no air pump no ps no ac...
what about the four that are in a straight line up? (refer to pic) i believe they just cut through the LIM so if i just route the vacuum lines directly w/o going through the manifold everything should work fine?
what about the four that are in a straight line up? (refer to pic) i believe they just cut through the LIM so if i just route the vacuum lines directly w/o going through the manifold everything should work fine?
04-20-09, 06:26 PM
#48
i think im gonna be attempting this again this weekend..
few things i need help on..
The hardlines that come up from the bottom (bolts on to the y pipe) block the banjo bolt, how do i get this to clear? ive read that i just bend the hardlines out of the way... is this the proper way to install them?
installing injectors- idk what they are called but they seat inside the injector spots, i assume i need to remove them to install the new secondary injectors? if so how do i pull them out without breaking/damaging anyhting?
im gonna simplify my rats nest as well to make things more pleasing to work with.. will i need any new vacuum lines? ex extend lengths of certain things?
should i get a set of block off plates and do that aswell? all i have currently is ithe ACV block off plate..
btw im running the stock SEQ twins, previous picture posted is not my car
few things i need help on..
The hardlines that come up from the bottom (bolts on to the y pipe) block the banjo bolt, how do i get this to clear? ive read that i just bend the hardlines out of the way... is this the proper way to install them?
installing injectors- idk what they are called but they seat inside the injector spots, i assume i need to remove them to install the new secondary injectors? if so how do i pull them out without breaking/damaging anyhting?
im gonna simplify my rats nest as well to make things more pleasing to work with.. will i need any new vacuum lines? ex extend lengths of certain things?
should i get a set of block off plates and do that aswell? all i have currently is ithe ACV block off plate..
btw im running the stock SEQ twins, previous picture posted is not my car
04-20-09, 10:55 PM
#50
I'm not sure which hardlines you're talking about. Are they the large pipes that are supposed to hook up to the air pump ? Or it sounds like they are smaller lines if you were going to replace them with vacuum line. What do they connect to?? do u have a pic?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
HalifaxFD
Canadian Forum
126
05-09-16 07:06 PM
