I hate to have to create a thread for this dumb question. I couldn't find it under search. But can anyone tell me what the thread size is for the inner two bolt holes, where you would connect the t-puller? I'm guessing twelve mm., but don't want to play guessing games? Anyways, I screwed up the threads so I'm going to have to tap them? And try to re-pull the flywheel off.

Thanks in advance,

 

You really don't need to use a flywheel puller. Put on some ear protection, thread the flywheel nut a few turns onto the eccentric shaft, pry with a screwdriver or prybar between the engine and flywheel, and bang on the flywheel with a hammer. ONLY hit the outer area of the flywheel, not the surface the clutch comes into contact with. Once you actually get pissed at it and hit it HARD, it will pop right off.

If you JUST installed the flywheel, it should come off pretty easily.

Wish I knew what the thread was in the hole - sorry! Never actually used that method .

Dale

 

I don't remember the pitch, but they should be the same as the bell housing bolts.

 

Thanks for the help guys, well I don't want to screw up the inner bearing. I'm just following my best friend Bruce T.'s tips for removing it, he went on vacation for the time being. He mentions somewhere along the lines of if you plan to re-use the inner bearing without damaging it, or something about if you have a manual transmission you need to use the t-puller method. I have the t-puller and like a clutz used the the bolts supplied with the kit, and cross threaded them like a fool. So now I am stuck rethreading them. I thought about just slapping a rubber mallot on it but am refraining from doing so in hopes to salvage as many parts as possible.

 

So as you see I will need to know the size regardless, as I will have to rethread them eventually.

 

Umm, your friend doesn't have any idea what he's talking about (at least relating to Rx-7s). The pilot bearing is inside the eccentric shaft. You stand MORE of a chance of screwing it up if you use a puller to get the flywheel off. If you use Dale's method, you won't even come near touching the p.s. bearing.

You don't need to worry about re-threading the puller holes in the flywheel because no-one ever uses them.

If you're worried about the accuracy of your hammer skills, go pick up a 10 pound, shot-filled, dead blow hammer. I've been taking them off that way for about 10 years, but it takes a big (heavy) hammer for it to work.

- Dave Disney

 

I disagree with you there Dave.

I've pulled quite a few flywheels using a harmonic puller and never once came close to damaging a pilot bearing. With the puller, a thick piece of metal should be used to grind in on; therefore the puller shaft should never physically touch anything else.

IMO, hammers are a last resort.

 

It was a joke Bruce Turrentine is not really my friend although if he was he would be my best friend. Anyhow on his video now that I recall it correctly, he mentions to use the t-puller with a bushing over the center opening where the inner bearing lies in order to prevent damaging it. He also says that it is a MUST to use a t-puller if the flywheel and thrust bearing are good and you plan to re-use them. Obviously I wouldn't know about the later because I haven't even popped the flywheel off. I don't want to risk damaging potentially reusable parts that is why I am using the t-puller method. Anyhow I found the thread I need to use it uses the same thread as the downpipe bolts, which I had an extra one laying around. I can't remember what thread size it is however. I'll re-post the info asap to conclude the thread for future use.

 

Okay for anyone else looking the right bolts, which bruce never mentions in the video is 10mm by 1.5. Once I got the right bolts and attached the t-puller with a steel piece under the center piece of the t-puller and tightened it, hit the side portion of the flywheel and it popped off. Took about 20 seconds worth of work once I had the right equipment.