Intro
To start, this is my first RX7 and my first Mazda. I've had the car (running fine) for a week now. The engine and most of the mods are still in their break-in period (less then 1,000 miles).
1993 RX7 R1
Mod list is at the bottom.

Story
Last week it overheated due to lack of coolant (and low on oil) . Those were immediately filled with what I had with me in the car.

On the way home it was still overheating so I pulled into a gas station and bought more coolant. We filled it full and when we went to start the car it seemed the battery was dead.

We tried jumping the car and it still wouldn't turn over, sounded like it wasn't getting enough spark. It was getting fuel but was barely trying to kick over.
Eventually had the car towed home.

Tried
After doing some searching here, I figured that I would replace the spark plugs assuming they were flooded. These are the directions I followed:The car then sounded like it was getting enough spark but still wouldn't turn all the way over, it would fluctuate between 200 and 600rpm (620 was the max rpm it got to on the PowerFC).


Notes:
The fuel pumps are wired to a switch.

VTA01 - 0.63 to 4.38
VTA02 - 1.48 to 4.97

I've never owned a PowerFC before so don't go too technical on me.

After I got it home and worked on it the first day, now the aftermarket tach (autometer nexus) is not coming on and just noticed today the passenger window isn't working.


MOD LIST
Pettit Racing Built 13B Engine with Ceramic Apex Seals
Garrett GT35/40R Dual Ballbearing Turbo
HKS Standard Wastegate w/10psi spring
CJ Motorsports Braided Fuel Lines
CJ Motorsports Fuel Rails "Anodized Red"
CJ Motorsports Dual In-Tank Pump System
Charlies7 Coil relocation Kit
Racingbeat 3" Downpipe
Racingbeat 3" Midpipe
Megan Racing 3" Catback
Yakada FD3 FMIC Kit
Denso 1600cc injectors (Secondaries)
Denso 1000cc injectors (Primaries)
Greddy Pulley Kit
Greddy Type-S Blow Off Valve
Fluidyne Race Radiator
Fluidyne Dual Oil Coolers
Fluidyne Trans Cooler
Torsen LSD 4.1 gearing
Pettit Racing Cool Charge Kit
Pettit Racing Heat Wrap
2 x Walbro 255lph In-Tank Fuel Pump
Apexi Power FC Stand Alone Engine Management System
Apexi HKS Twin Power
Fuel Labs Adjustable Fuel Presure Regulator
Thermal Flex Silicone Couplers
KGY Fuel Rails
NGK Monster Wires
NGK Plat. Plugs (9's all around)

 

when you say that it overheated what temperatures did you see?

 

It was past the red line

 

You might want to consider getting a real water temp gauge. The stock one really isn't very helpful.

 

The previous owner hooked one up but wired up so it reads the coolant temp
That gauge was reading just fine.

 

*bump*
I guess I shouldn't expect much help on a holiday weekend. Hope to get some feedback late Monday or Tuesday.

 

if your car got up above the redline then you would be very lucky if you didnt blow the motor I think redline is like 130 degrees celcius which is way way way to hot. Sorry I would run a compression test and go from there.

 

sounds like ur engine is toast and the reason why it seems like the battery is not giving the engine enough spark is due to the low compression on one of the rotors.

Save your self the guessing game, go to an auto store and pick up a basic compression tester and do a compression test on the front and rear rotor.

Have a friend help you that can watch for a bouncing needle which is a good indicator of a blown seal / warped seal.

Do a search on this forum for how to do a proper compression test and then do it.

 

You could have severe coolant seal damage, causing the engine to not start due to too much coolant in the combustion chamber. If you shut the engine down instantly when you saw the temp jump you might be ok, however, if you kept driving it for another 20-40 seconds to pull it over it is highly likely that engine is done for.

However, before jumping to that conclusion, guy buy new plugs again Dont just replace them, while the old plugs are removed, remove the egi fuse and turn the motor over for 20-30 seconds to clear any coolant or fuel out of the combustion chamber. Install the trailing plugs and then do a compression test on the engine, if that yields decent results then install new plugs and reinstall the EGI fuse and try to start the car.

Seems like a compression test is a must then start diagnosing other issues, it is highly likely you spun bearings also if the motor was ran low on oil. Had this happen to a customer recently, car just shut off going down the road, the only way he could get it restarted was putting ATF in the combustion chamber and roll starting it and it would only run for about 10 seconds before dying out. Ended up he had severe bearing damage and the engine needed rebuilt.

Good luck

 

Damn, looks like I'm sh*t out of luck. I have a friend bringing a compression tester over right now.
I'm trying to find a How To for compression testing. If you know where to find it please post it for me.

 

Battery was dead when I went out to check the compression. It is at Autozone getting charged right now.
I also pulled the spark plugs (installed yesterday) to take a look and they all had gas on them.

 

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...ion_check.html

 

Thanks, that's the one I just found as well.