austin102085

iTrader: (6)

can some one direct me to a thread that has an indepth engine removal walk thru type ****. and one that isnt 10 years old where the site all the pics were uploaded with has gone out of business and all the pics are just of a bunch of little xxxxxxx's

and i know the first reply to this will be "SEARCH" bla bla bla

look i have and the search on this forum could use a bit of help all it does is look for key words in the most recent post....

im just lookin for a little guidence here. thanks

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

SEARCH......... Seriously.






































Hint: You should start in the FSM.

automationLED

iTrader: (5)

at least you guessed correctly about your first response

limepro

iTrader: (2)

click on faq, go to fsm, download it. it has step by step directions on removal, rebuilding, installing and anything else you need to know about the factory system.

or click here to download it.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...wnload-449950/

austin102085

iTrader: (6)

ill start there... Thanks

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

and coming in with an attitude isn't going to get you any favors, i personally don't sit here replying for free to ungrateful people.

i will give you a tip though:

digital camera
masking tape
sharpie
FSM
case of beer(helps ease the pain)


problem with a walkthrough on an FD R+R is there is so much involved it takes pages of pictures and days to even make a writeup for one.

Mr rx-7 tt

iTrader: (5)

Here you go Austin.

Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.

If you have any questions or you get stuck feel free to PM me.

bajaman

http://www.rotaryaviation.com/Books_videos.htm

I highly recommend purchasing their video on engine removal and replacement. It is THE REAL DEAL, and saved me countless hours of heartache. ANYONE can follow this video and be successful.

austin102085

iTrader: (6)

its not that i have an "attitude" about this.sorry if it came off like that. i have been a member of another popular mazda speed forum since it started and i know how old skool members of a forum treat noobs. ive been there myself and told people to search for **** cause looking at the same thread titles over and over can get old fast.
im by no means a noob in the car modding game but this rx7 takes the cake. i pulled the top intake off and saw that rats nest and was like !!!!!WTF!!!!! hahaha.
but thanks for everyone who posted some useful info

ill read thru it and do some more "SEARCHING" and try to keep my "hey whats this part" threads to a min.

my DD which i build myself from the ground up straight off the dealership floor
2008 mazdaspeed3 DD @ 18psi weekend racin @ 24-26psi
Built Engine- CP Pistons 9.5:1/Pauter Rods -- Holset HX35 Big Turbo-- DNP Manifold w/ewg -- Tial 44mm EWG -- Hallman EVOLUTION RX MBC
Custom Catback Exhaust -- Custon Downpipe-- CUSTOM 3.25 MAF-- Custom 4 inch Turbo Inlet, custom Proto-type Injector Seals
CP-E STANDBACK w/ FLASHES(Tuned By Jake @ CPE)-- COBB FMIC
Fuel Pump Internals -- Devils Own Meth Kit 100% -- Spin-on Oil Filter -- 3 Step Colder Plugs -- TWM Short Shift
Custom Center Gauge Pod -- Custom 1 Of A Kind MS3 Gauges -- Front Lip -- Emblem Less Grill -- Rice Gen1&2 Hood Hybrid

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

A couple more hints (not sure if they're in any of those links):
*A second...or even a third person is helpful.
*Load-leveler on the engine hoist is almost absolutely needed.
*Look in the FAQ stickys for a helpful video on disconnecting the pull-clutch. It's really not difficult, and get's easier everytime you do it. But hangs up some first-timers.

*I'm fairly sure the FSM and most threads will have you pulling the engine and transmission together. After having been shown how R & R'ing JUST the engine goes, I now prefer to do it that way. There are pro's and con's for each way. To each there own.

Todds94FD

Austin, like you I searched for a while and didn't find the links that were posted above (wish I had. It might have saved a little time). I found a few that listed things but never included pic.s. So I jumped right in and started from scratch. Since I'm doing a swap, I removed the Trans/engine/harness all at the same time. It was definitely a pain, but very doable for someone with basic mechanical knowledge and decent tools.

I also recommend: Load-leveler on the hoist and masking tape.
I did it all by myself. I didn't mask off the frame rails or fire wall ridge and ended up getting a couple scratches. It was no big deal since I bought some color matched paint (yes rattle can) and now you could never tell it was scratched. It looks showroom new now.

Good luck

austin102085

iTrader: (6)

yea i gotta pull all the stuff off the inside fenders and knock some rust that is starting off and just painting it black inside cause i havent decided on a color to paint it yet.

im working all weekend but plan on jumping back on it wed and thurs when im off and should be able to have it out by then..... putting it back together is going to prove the real pain in the *** as 1/2 the engine was taken apart when i got it and i have a bag full of nuts and bolts. like most the ratsnest and other harness conections have already been unpluged but not labled. so i have that to deal with as well.

i just want this bitch out so i can get the rebuild started.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

it's usually best to pull the transmission with the engine first time, pulling just the engine comes with experience. most people will have difficulty separating the transmission due to the pull type clutch locking mechanism.

barcode625

iTrader: (3)

I just pulled my engine out, without the transmission(my first time messing with an FD) If you choose to do it that way, make sure you remove the clutch slave cylinder, the 2 access panels(one almost directly on bottom, one on the back near the slave) use something, I used a ratchet extension and push the lever for the throwout toward the back of the car/tranny, which moves the locking ring into the engine, once you have that there done, a long screwdriver or I used a 1/4 inch extension that was 6 or 8 inches long and stuck it between the throwout bearing and locking ring, pried back to hold it there then took the extension holding the lever back out and put it though the hole for the slave cylinder and beat it in until the bearing separated from the clutch.

It was my first time with a pull clutch, and first time on a FD, took me 1.5 hours of wasting time before I found the directions in the FSM, then 30 mins of trying after that and it popped right off. Definitely tricky for the first time.

Other then that part, everything else is self explanatory, unplug everything lol, I had a blast doing it and be ready to get cut up, its sharp in there.

Last part, make sure you test fit your engine hoist, mine wouldn't go far enough into the engine bay to be directly over the engine due to the lifting cylinder hitting the bumper cover. The engine sit very far back in the engine bay.

Sorry for the book, but I just did it, and I'm trying to remember what held me up during the process.